Check Break
Senior Member
Tom. Check this out. I was looking for something else. Didn't find it of course but this was way more interesting. https://www.alexanderstractorparts.com/transmission-parts/torque-converter-trans-parts.html
Yes, if you have them this is much easier. I find I only have black so it's multiple ties on each side. Still cheaper than getting it wrong.
Tom. Check this out. I was looking for something else. Didn't find it of course but this was way more interesting. https://www.alexanderstractorparts.com/transmission-parts/torque-converter-trans-parts.html
I have this terrible affliction of buying more things that I seem to be able to get done. But I suspect I'm not alone in this! Per your earlier input regarding finding a shop manual I gave my new copy of the shop manual to a buddy who also has a 555 in need of love and care. But my newest replacement copy just arrived today. I finally cleared enough out of the way in my shop to get the hydraulic pump off and the bolts for the oil distributor out. Also took off the modulator valve which shows some discouraging rust between ports, but I'm not going into panic mode yet. My obstacle at the moment is trying to get the clevis pin between the control valve and the linkage out. Can't seem to get enough clearance to disengage the link from the valve, and can't get the loose distributor out more than maybe a 1/4" because of it. I'm reading through the manual now to see if I can figure it out.
Back to Page 07B03. https://www.messicks.com/nhc/48653 Part No. 38. Looks like a sleeve nut. Back the nut out and the valve will allow the bellcrank to swing away from the bellhousing far enough that you can remove the pin.
Back to Page 07B03. https://www.messicks.com/nhc/48653 Part No. 38. Looks like a sleeve nut. Back the nut out and the valve will allow the bellcrank to swing away from the bellhousing far enough that you can remove the pin.
The valve block on top of the oil distributor that you removed is a source of irritation for any tractor that's been sitting for a while. Those pins tend to freeze up, preventing the horizontal valve spool you're working on from moving back and forth in the oil distributor. Look for damaged pins and broken springs.
Don't forget to pull the tube out the right side before you try to remove the oil distributor.
I have two shuttles to tear down. One has been waiting a year and the other more than two. You're way ahead of me.
This from an earlier post; "Before you remove the oil distributor, remove the cooler line and transfer pipe, left side (right side facing the input shaft) and the cooler return on top of the case. The transfer pipe (left side) has to be pulled out before the oil distributor will come out. You'll may also have to back off the sleeve nut on the control valve (right side of valve) to get the control valve to unhook from the bellcrank (linkage)."
(Above picture) Those pins in the top of the oil distributor will have to come out. If your valve still doesn't move after backing the nut off, gently remove those pins as they're the culprit.
Review Page 07B11 on the Messicks parts site. Remove the cooler lines before pulling the oil distributor. Part No.-s 20 & 26 protrude down into the transmission case. You'll find a tube (thin wall pipe about 10" long) under Part No. 26. I thought I was having a senior moment as I couldn't find it on the parts diagram, but no, it's just Ford. They like to hide the ball to keep you thinking. Check out Page 07B01, Part No. 15. The cast block from the cooler line is repeated as Part No. 17. When you remove No. 26 (Page 07B11), look inside the hole. You'll see the tube. Try not to scar it up when you grab onto it to pull it out. Keep track of the orings.
This from an earlier post; "Before you remove the oil distributor, remove the cooler line and transfer pipe, left side (right side facing the input shaft) and the cooler return on top of the case. The transfer pipe (left side) has to be pulled out before the oil distributor will come out. You'll may also have to back off the sleeve nut on the control valve (right side of valve) to get the control valve to unhook from the bellcrank (linkage)."
(Above picture) Those pins in the top of the oil distributor will have to come out. If your valve still doesn't move after backing the nut off, gently remove those pins as they're the culprit.
Review Page 07B11 on the Messicks parts site. Remove the cooler lines before pulling the oil distributor. Part No.-s 20 & 26 protrude down into the transmission case. You'll find a tube (thin wall pipe about 10" long) under Part No. 26. I thought I was having a senior moment as I couldn't find it on the parts diagram, but no, it's just Ford. They like to hide the ball to keep you thinking. Check out Page 07B01, Part No. 15. The cast block from the cooler line is repeated as Part No. 17. When you remove No. 26 (Page 07B11), look inside the hole. You'll see the tube. Try not to scar it up when you grab onto it to pull it out. Keep track of the orings.
Facing the distributor, I've taken off the oil line (1/38) bolt. I'll next fo for the top case line. I see a 3/8" line behind the front plate as I can move the distributor out about 3/8". I'll check out your references and try to get my head around how this animal is put together.
As always, your help and guidance is immensely appreciated,
This from an earlier post; "Before you remove the oil distributor, remove the cooler line and transfer pipe, left side (right side facing the input shaft) and the cooler return on top of the case. The transfer pipe (left side) has to be pulled out before the oil distributor will come out. You'll may also have to back off the sleeve nut on the control valve (right side of valve) to get the control valve to unhook from the bellcrank (linkage)."
(Above picture) Those pins in the top of the oil distributor will have to come out. If your valve still doesn't move after backing the nut off, gently remove those pins as they're the culprit.
Review Page 07B11 on the Messicks parts site. Remove the cooler lines before pulling the oil distributor. Part No.-s 20 & 26 protrude down into the transmission case. You'll find a tube (thin wall pipe about 10" long) under Part No. 26. I thought I was having a senior moment as I couldn't find it on the parts diagram, but no, it's just Ford. They like to hide the ball to keep you thinking. Check out Page 07B01, Part No. 15. The cast block from the cooler line is repeated as Part No. 17. When you remove No. 26 (Page 07B11), look inside the hole. You'll see the tube. Try not to scar it up when you grab onto it to pull it out. Keep track of the orings.
... I have very little clearance between the case and the left side frame. I really can't look directly into the hoe but DO have a bore scope.
Okay, I've looked at the diagrams and think I have everything sorted out EXCEPT... pulling the tube out that was hidden by part @26. Because the case is still in the tractor I have very little clearance between the case and the left side frame. I really can't look directly into the hoe but DO have a bore scope. I'll finish taking off the top cooler line then see what I can do with the p/m 15 tube.
I just enlarged your picture. Didn't notice the corrosion on the bearing. Maybe the discoloration on the input is more of the same.
From what I can see, the drum is ok. That will clean up. I can't tell if the discoloration on the input shaft is an illusion or not. Critical surfaces so far are the bore through the oil divider (which should have been out of the water), and the the input shaft. You might find there's nothing wrong with the clutch packs believe it or not. I don't see how you transmission would have functioned with those pins stuck in the oil divider. You're going to be happy if all she needs is a reseal plus hard parts you want to replace because you can't examine them (like the converter).
I didn't want to interrupt your momentum with negativity but more than likely the crash box behind the shuttle looks like the clutch drum. Possibly a gear is frozen to a shaft or a detent isn't moving. Could be the shifter is frozen within the top cover. I forget how large of a hole there is in the floorboard around the shifter. I think you can see enough after removing the floorboard and transmission top cover to figure out what's going on. Leaving the office finally. Won't be of any help the rest of the day.
I didn't want to interrupt your momentum with negativity but more than likely the crash box behind the shuttle looks like the clutch drum. Possibly a gear is frozen to a shaft or a detent isn't moving. Could be the shifter is frozen within the top cover. I forget how large of a hole there is in the floorboard around the shifter. I think you can see enough after removing the floorboard and transmission top cover to figure out what's going on. Leaving the office finally. Won't be of any help the rest of the day.