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Ford 555 Backhoe (early Eighties) shuttle removal?

iowahill

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Apr 18, 2015
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Retired, owner of Thomas Fischer Company, consultant
My Ford 555 backhoe has been split to prep for removal of the shuttle for rebuild. Can the shuttle be pulled separately or is it linked internally to the gear box? The manual has me pulling gear box and shuttle as a unit. Any help is much appreciated
 

Check Break

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If you've separated the engine from the transmission and you're thinking of removing the transmission to rebuild the shuttle, you're working too hard. Disassemble and rebuild the shuttle from the front of the transmission (bell housing) per the shop manual.
 

iowahill

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Retired, owner of Thomas Fischer Company, consultant
If you've separated the engine from the transmission and you're thinking of removing the transmission to rebuild the shuttle, you're working too hard. Disassemble and rebuild the shuttle from the front of the transmission (bell housing) per the shop manual.

So, you're suggesting that I access the guts by removing the front pump assembly and top cover plate(s), then going in for the kill? My copy of the shop manual doesn't refer to that approach. Can you point me to some resource that outlines what you're suggesting? Any way to get out of having to pull the entire shuttle and trans would be MOST appreciated! When researching sources for a rebuild kit for the shuttle I was asked if I had the 10-disc or 12-disc shuttle. I couldn't say unless I had torn the shuttle down. I should add that the reason the shuttle died (mostly) was because the trans cooler at the bottom of the old radiator had rusted out enough to let water go into the hydraulics, and H fluid to flow into the cooling system. My past experience with automatic transmissions taught me that friction plates and disc materials are often applied with a water soluble adhesive and that water in the fluid will cause delamination. This tractor sat for over 10 years with water in the trans. I drained and filled it with diesel fuel to help reduce and displace as much water as I could. All hydraulics (extend-a-hoe and bucket) and the motor worked perfectly, but the wheels would barely budge when put into forward or reverse.
 

Check Break

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you're suggesting that I access the guts by removing the front pump assembly and top cover platel? My shop manual doesn't refer to that approach. Can you point me to some resource that outlines what you're suggesting? I was asked if I had the 10-disc or 12-disc shuttle. ... the trans cooler at the bottom of the old radiator had rusted out ... This tractor sat for over 10 years with water in the trans.

With the converter out, you remove the pump and oil distributor to get to the clutch drum. Get a Ford Service Manual and follow the procedure for a "front end overhaul". Something like this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-550-5...m=222982421346&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

You're not going to find a rebuild kit. Ford sells every bit and piece individually. There's aftermarket parts out there but you're going to have to search by part number to find them. This requires a Ford Parts Manual or you can go to Messicks.com and look up your parts online. You have to decipher your serial number to determine which clutch drum you have. You believe your 555 is early 80-s. If so, you should have the late model shuttle found in the 555A and B.

There was a 555 advertised as a 555B on Sacto CL last winter with a bad transmission. I don't suppose this is the same machine. I hope she's not full of rust. Ford transmission parts are extremely expensive.
 

iowahill

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Messages
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Retired, owner of Thomas Fischer Company, consultant
With the converter out, you remove the pump and oil distributor to get to the clutch drum. Get a Ford Service Manual and follow the procedure for a "front end overhaul". Something like this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-550-555-Tractor-Backhoe-Loader-Service-Manual-Overhaul-Exploded-Diagrams/222982421346?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=52935&meid=1b0ddc38bea749fa8b152f06d7affcba&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=12&sd=153073816120&itm=222982421346&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

You're not going to find a rebuild kit. Ford sells every bit and piece individually. There's aftermarket parts out there but you're going to have to search by part number to find them. This requires a Ford Parts Manual or you can go to Messicks.com and look up your parts online. You have to decipher your serial number to determine which clutch drum you have. You believe your 555 is early 80-s. If so, you should have the late model shuttle found in the 555A and B.

There was a 555 advertised as a 555B on Sacto CL last winter with a bad transmission. I don't suppose this is the same machine. I hope she's not full of rust. Ford transmission parts are extremely expensive.

Your guidance is almost the best thing that has come my way this year. Many thanks. No, My tractor came through my son-in-law from an equestrian property where he and my daughter trained and boarded hay burners. I earlier sourced a rebuild kit for the converter from Joseph Industries (p/n 574330 for the 12 disc, 574332 for the 10 disc) which go for under $900 for either The kit includes all seals and gaskets, and some hard parts such as the discs.

I'm in the machine so far for around $1000 (which includes the new radiator that I bought) and it ran good and strong when I got it running with fresh oils and filters. So spending money on the shuttle parts, a couple of new tires, and replacing some hydraulic hoses as a precaution still make this a bargain. I have it inside my shop with all the tools and equipment I need, as well as my 7k Clark forklift, so I couldn't ask for better conditions to get this baby to work for my small placer gold and gravel operation.


I downloaded a shop manual for it online last year which guided me through the split, so maybe I missed the part about the shuttle, or perhaps it isn't covered with this manual? I'll check again and alsocheck out your eBay link

I can't thank you enough for the help and guidance. Many thanks!
 

Check Break

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I earlier sourced a rebuild kit for the converter from Joseph Industries (p/n 574330 for the 12 disc, 574332 for the 10 disc) which go for under $900 for either The kit includes all seals and gaskets, and some hard parts such as the discs. I'm in the machine so far for around $1000 (which includes the new radiator that I bought) and it ran good and strong when I got it running with fresh oils and filters. !

I don't frequent this site much anymore but will check back from time to time to see what you're doing. At $1,000 you're in a very good position. Before you remove the oil distributor, remove the cooler line and transfer pipe, left side (right side facing the input shaft) and the cooler return on top of the case. The transfer pipe (left side) has to be pulled out before the oil distributor will come out. You'll may also have to back off the sleeve nut on the control valve (right side of valve) to get the control valve to unhook from the bellcrank (linkage). With the control valve unhooked and the cooler/transfer pipe out, the oil distributor should unbolt and come out. (Forgot, pull the pump first.) I think Joseph sells reman converters also. I didn't know they sold clutch drums and frictions. There's going to be some items that have to come from NH. If your bearings on the vertical linkage shaft are bad, those can be had aftermarket. Check the sheet metal plate between the converter and flywheel for cracks. They're available aftermarket and cheap to replace now. Hopefully your shafts are good. You'll have to replace the cast iron sealing washers. Watch out going back together as they like to crack. I think that will get you started.
 

iowahill

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You're a rare gem of input and guidance. Again, Many thanks!
 

iowahill

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The Joseph kit picture shows what might be the iron seals that you referred to as part of the kit, but I'm not sure and can always ask if and when I place my order. And if you ever find your way out west in Northern CA, let me know so that I can treat you to the finest hospitality that I know of! Your help has been immense. I have to do some shuffling around in my shop work space to get at the tractor but should be close by mid-week to pull the front pump and guts out.
 

iowahill

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2015
Messages
271
Location
Lincoln, CA
Occupation
Retired, owner of Thomas Fischer Company, consultant
The Joseph kit picture shows what might be the iron seals that you referred to as part of the kit, but I'm not sure and can always ask if and when I place my order. And if you ever find your way out west in Northern CA, let me know so that I can treat you to the finest hospitality that I know of! Your help has been immense. I have to do some shuffling around in my shop work space to get at the tractor but should be close by mid-week to pull the front pump and guts out.
 

iowahill

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2015
Messages
271
Location
Lincoln, CA
Occupation
Retired, owner of Thomas Fischer Company, consultant
The Joseph kit picture shows what might be the iron seals that you referred to as part of the kit, but I'm not sure and can always ask if and when I place my order. And if you ever find your way out west in Northern CA, let me know so that I can treat you to the finest hospitality that I know of! Your help has been immense. I have to do some shuffling around in my shop work space to get at the tractor but should be close by mid-week to pull the front pump and guts out.

FWI - I have a YouTube video of a 20 minute tour of our gravel/gold operation. Search for "iowahill" and load the one vide "Mine work". There you can see how badly we can use the backhoe to supplement the gold and gravel recoveries.
 

iowahill

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Messages
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Lincoln, CA
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Retired, owner of Thomas Fischer Company, consultant
Tom. Did you get anywhere on your project.

I bought the shop manual that you referred to on eBay and have read through the procedures. I should be able to get into the guts of the shuttle sometime during the week. After looking at serial numbers on the trans case and the build plate I'm thinking that I have the earlier 12-disc shuttle. Seems the later 10-disc was introduced around 1983. I should know for sure by the weekend. Again, Many thanks!
 

Check Break

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After looking at serial numbers on the trans case and the build plate I'm thinking that I have the earlier 12-disc shuttle. Seems the later 10-disc was introduced around 1983.

The 12 disk ended production 2/1981, switching to the 10 disk 3/1981. If your machine is built in Feb or Mar, there's no way to know for sure until you tear it down. Otherwise, your manufacturing date code should be dispositive.

It's too late to tell you to remove the bucket. Takes a lot of weight off the overhead. Hope you have one or both loader cylinders secured with a spacer designed to keep the loader frame up, the subframe on jack stands and a stack of blocks (or better) under the transmission behind the shuttle. I forgot to tell you to mark the power steering lines. Some guys use wire, some zip ties. You only need to mark 3 of the 4 lines. I put one zip tie on either side of the fitting on one line, two on the next and so on. The first time I used a white pen to mark the lines, the paint came off and I hooked up two of them backwards causing the hoe to steer the opposite direction intended. If you haven't emptied the diesel tank, you might want to do so before you take it out. It heavier than you'd expect. That's all I can think of so you won't have to ask, "why didn't you tell me that before I started."
 

iowahill

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Messages
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Lincoln, CA
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Retired, owner of Thomas Fischer Company, consultant
The bucket support arms are secured with the factory brace, the tractor has been split, and I have stands under the front arms to help support the weight, though with the extend-a-hoe weight at the rear I doubt that there's much weight, if at all. I don't have the transmission supported as it looks pretty robust mounted to the rear axle. I DO have a 3000 lb transmission jack that I bought in anticipation of having to drop the entire unit but doubt I'll need it.
 

iowahill

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Messages
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Retired, owner of Thomas Fischer Company, consultant
The 12 disk ended production 2/1981, switching to the 10 disk 3/1981. If your machine is built in Feb or Mar, there's no way to know for sure until you tear it down. Otherwise, your manufacturing date code should be dispositive.

It's too late to tell you to remove the bucket. Takes a lot of weight off the overhead. Hope you have one or both loader cylinders secured with a spacer designed to keep the loader frame up, the subframe on jack stands and a stack of blocks (or better) under the transmission behind the shuttle. I forgot to tell you to mark the power steering lines. Some guys use wire, some zip ties. You only need to mark 3 of the 4 lines. I put one zip tie on either side of the fitting on one line, two on the next and so on. The first time I used a white pen to mark the lines, the paint came off and I hooked up two of them backwards causing the hoe to steer the opposite direction intended. If you haven't emptied the diesel tank, you might want to do so before you take it out. It heavier than you'd expect. That's all I can think of so you won't have to ask, "why didn't you tell me that before I started."

I was having trouble deciphering the date codes from the shop manual, but perhaps you CAN! The cab plate reads: Transmission: C664135 Model: DF311F Unit: 1C18B Engine: 1B25A Transmission: 1B05B Rear Axle: 1B06B. The numbers stamped into the case on the right side to the rear of the starter confirm the tractor number, transmission code, and unit number. My guess is 1982?
 

iowahill

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Retired, owner of Thomas Fischer Company, consultant
I was having trouble deciphering the date codes from the shop manual, but perhaps you CAN! The cab plate reads: Transmission: C664135 Model: DF311F Unit: 1C18B Engine: 1B25A Transmission: 1B05B Rear Axle: 1B06B. The numbers stamped into the case on the right side to the rear of the starter confirm the tractor number, transmission code, and unit number. My guess is 1982?


CORRECTION: Tractor number is C664235, not transmission. But then, you already knew that!
 

Check Break

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I was having trouble deciphering the date codes from the shop manual, but perhaps you CAN! The cab plate reads: Transmission: C664135 Model: DF311F Unit: 1C18B Engine: 1B25A Transmission: 1B05B Rear Axle: 1B06B. The numbers stamped into the case on the right side to the rear of the starter confirm the tractor number, transmission code, and unit number. My guess is 1982?

From your Unit Production Code, I'd say your 555 was built March 18, 1981, day shift. Model code DF311F indicates you have a 555, Diesel, no PTO and 4x4 w/TC. The production dates for the engine, transmission and axle all indicate they were built February 1981, engine 2/25/81, transmission 2/5/81 and axle 2/6/81. Your unit code build date of 3/18/81 sounds correct. So, now the dilema. I've always used the tractor build date (in this case the unit code date) to determine a part number change. It's going to be interesting when you tear her down. Is the transmission date code dispositive, in this case February and 12 disks, or is it the unit date code and a March build and 10 disks.

As for your transmission, it's cantilevered out there without any support. Some guys put a jack stand or jack under it. I always used a stack of blocks. Anything which will support it will do. In the event you want to pull it out, you can remove the support and wheel your tranny jack underneath easy enough.

If you're leaking fluid between your transmission and center housing, there's a trick to simplify the repair that you might want to do before you reattach the engine. More on that later if you want when the shuttle is done.
 

Check Break

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Use colored zip ties for identifying the hoses. One on the fitting the hose came off of and the same color on the hose.
Yes, if you have them this is much easier. I find I only have black so it's multiple ties on each side. Still cheaper than getting it wrong.
 
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