Check Break
Senior Member
Tom. Check this out. I was looking for something else. Didn't find it of course but this was way more interesting. https://www.alexanderstractorparts.com/transmission-parts/torque-converter-trans-parts.html
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Ford 555 Backhoe (early Eighties) shuttle removal?
- Thread starter iowahill
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iowahill
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I have this terrible affliction of buying more things that I seem to be able to get done. But I suspect I'm not alone in this! Per your earlier input regarding finding a shop manual I gave my new copy of the shop manual to a buddy who also has a 555 in need of love and care. But my newest replacement copy just arrived today. I finally cleared enough out of the way in my shop to get the hydraulic pump off and the bolts for the oil distributor out. Also took off the modulator valve which shows some discouraging rust between ports, but I'm not going into panic mode yet. My obstacle at the moment is trying to get the clevis pin between the control valve and the linkage out. Can't seem to get enough clearance to disengage the link from the valve, and can't get the loose distributor out more than maybe a 1/4" because of it. I'm reading through the manual now to see if I can figure it out.
iowahill
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Great link! Many thanks. If I can figure out how to get the control valve linkage loose I'll soon find what evil lurks behind the oil distributor!
iowahill
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Check Break
Senior Member
Back to Page 07B03. https://www.messicks.com/nhc/48653 Part No. 38. Looks like a sleeve nut. Back the nut out and the valve will allow the bellcrank to swing away from the bellhousing far enough that you can remove the pin.
The valve block on top of the oil distributor that you removed is a source of irritation for any tractor that's been sitting for a while. Those pins tend to freeze up, preventing the horizontal valve spool you're working on from moving back and forth in the oil distributor. Look for damaged pins and broken springs.
Don't forget to pull the tube out the right side before you try to remove the oil distributor.
I have two shuttles to tear down. One has been waiting a year and the other more than two. You're way ahead of me.
iowahill
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Yes, I was thinking that the hex fitting on the left end of the control shaft had something to do with getting it out. I should know in a couple of hours. Not sure what you mean about the tube on the right side. Is this something I'll see as I'm pulling the distributor forward and out? Is it the filter pickup? The valve assembly might not be too bad as what looks like rust is more emulsified fluid and water mix. A brass scratch brush and a dunk in my solvent tank should help quite a bit. The control shaft seemed to slide to its detents without any effort, so it may turn out that the pins and springs are okay. Again, I'll know for sure later today.
Check Break
Senior Member
This from an earlier post; "Before you remove the oil distributor, remove the cooler line and transfer pipe, left side (right side facing the input shaft) and the cooler return on top of the case. The transfer pipe (left side) has to be pulled out before the oil distributor will come out. You'll may also have to back off the sleeve nut on the control valve (right side of valve) to get the control valve to unhook from the bellcrank (linkage)."
(Above picture) Those pins in the top of the oil distributor will have to come out. If your valve still doesn't move after backing the nut off, gently remove those pins as they're the culprit.
Review Page 07B11 on the Messicks parts site. Remove the cooler lines before pulling the oil distributor. Part No.-s 20 & 26 protrude down into the transmission case. You'll find a tube (thin wall pipe about 10" long) under Part No. 26. I thought I was having a senior moment as I couldn't find it on the parts diagram, but no, it's just Ford. They like to hide the ball to keep you thinking. Check out Page 07B01, Part No. 15. The cast block from the cooler line is repeated as Part No. 17. When you remove No. 26 (Page 07B11), look inside the hole. You'll see the tube. Try not to scar it up when you grab onto it to pull it out. Keep track of the orings.
(Above picture) Those pins in the top of the oil distributor will have to come out. If your valve still doesn't move after backing the nut off, gently remove those pins as they're the culprit.
Review Page 07B11 on the Messicks parts site. Remove the cooler lines before pulling the oil distributor. Part No.-s 20 & 26 protrude down into the transmission case. You'll find a tube (thin wall pipe about 10" long) under Part No. 26. I thought I was having a senior moment as I couldn't find it on the parts diagram, but no, it's just Ford. They like to hide the ball to keep you thinking. Check out Page 07B01, Part No. 15. The cast block from the cooler line is repeated as Part No. 17. When you remove No. 26 (Page 07B11), look inside the hole. You'll see the tube. Try not to scar it up when you grab onto it to pull it out. Keep track of the orings.
iowahill
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Facing the distributor, I've taken off the oil line (1/38) bolt. I'll next fo for the top case line. I see a 3/8" line behind the front plate as I can move the distributor out about 3/8". I'll check out your references and try to get my head around how this animal is put together.
As always, your help and guidance is immensely appreciated,
iowahill
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iowahill
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Okay, I've looked at the diagrams and think I have everything sorted out EXCEPT... pulling the tube out that was hidden by part @26. Because the case is still in the tractor I have very little clearance between the case and the left side frame. I really can't look directly into the hoe but DO have a bore scope. I'll finish taking off the top cooler line then see what I can do with the p/m 15 tube.
Check Break
Senior Member
I'm going to end up abandoning you in a few minutes. I don't use a smart phone and won't be able to get back to the forum until late afternoon.
It's been a long time but there's a way to move the transmission case up to clear the loader frame. If you blocked the transmission case, remove the blocks and put a floor jack under the transmission. Can you raise the transmission enough to get the pipe just over the top of the loader frame so you can pull it out the side. I don't remember loosening anything on the rear axle to enable the transmission and center housing to pivit as an assembly. You have to pull that tube in order to remove the oil divider. Don't pull on the oil divider before you do or you might bend the tube.
iowahill
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Okay... got the distributor off. Initially it looked pretty good inside, that is before I turned the clutch housing 180 degrees and saw the rust that accumulated over 11 years of having water from the bad radiator cooler tank in the trans fluid. The rust is pretty moderate though it might clean up enough to still be usable. Next step is to pull the clutch pack assembly to see if its a 12 disk or the later 10 disk.
Check Break
Senior Member
From what I can see, the drum is ok. That will clean up. I can't tell if the discoloration on the input shaft is an illusion or not. Critical surfaces so far are the bore through the oil divider (which should have been out of the water), and the the input shaft. You might find there's nothing wrong with the clutch packs believe it or not. I don't see how you transmission would have functioned with those pins stuck in the oil divider. You're going to be happy if all she needs is a reseal plus hard parts you want to replace because you can't examine them (like the converter).
Check Break
Senior Member
I just enlarged your picture. Didn't notice the corrosion on the bearing. Maybe the discoloration on the input is more of the same.
iowahill
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The shaft looks fine. Just gave it a quick spray of brake cleaner and most of the old emulsified oil was gone. A good cleaning in my solvent tank and a Scotch Brite pad should have everything looking like new. I'll pull the clutches as soon as I finish lunch and send an update. And from what I'm seeing so far things look pretty good, Probably a new torque converter and maybe a pump would be in order, though I see that there are rebuild kits for the converter available fromMessiks.
iowahill
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One other issue came up when we brought the tractor to my shop from where it sat for 11 years is that the manual transmission shift was frozen. After I had drained all of the old oil and water I overfilled the trans with red kerosene, which has been soaking the insides of over 3 years now. I may have to pull the floorboards and pop the shift cover off if I can't get it to shift. I'll try that after I get the clutch pack out.
Check Break
Senior Member
I didn't want to interrupt your momentum with negativity but more than likely the crash box behind the shuttle looks like the clutch drum. Possibly a gear is frozen to a shaft or a detent isn't moving. Could be the shifter is frozen within the top cover. I forget how large of a hole there is in the floorboard around the shifter. I think you can see enough after removing the floorboard and transmission top cover to figure out what's going on. Leaving the office finally. Won't be of any help the rest of the day.
iowahill
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Got everything apart, and the shifter is good between 2 and 4. throws over to the right okay but can't catch a shift up or down into 1 & 3. I'll worry about that later. The input shaft front bearing looks okay but I might err on the side of caution and replace it now because splitting this tractor a second time is not something I relish. It's a 12-disk and the bronze friction disks look fine. The only thing I'll do in that department is polish the steels up before assembly. The clutch pack housing should clean up with some wire brushing and a dunk in the solvent tank.
Time for me to make up a parts order. After 3 plus years I'm beginning to see daylight on this project!
iowahill
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Is there a single source for the reseal gaskets, o rings, etc for this tractor or do I have to order ala carte? And looking at over $2500 for a rebuilt torque converter seems over the top. Mine was working, though I never performed a pressure check. Thinking of either cleaning it all out (I've had it filled laying flat with red kerosene for 3+ years) and there's no wear or damage to the spud, or looking for a local rebuilder. I came across a torque converter rebuild kit while browsing a few days ago but can't find it now. It was probably either Alexander or Messiks where I saw it.
Last edited:
Check Break
Senior Member
You can go deeper. There's more bearings and a thrust washer on the input shaft you'll want to look at. Remove the four bolts on the casting that supports the rear input shaft and remove the casting and reverse gear. You'll need to replace the sealing rings on the rear input shaft also.
You need to disassemble your clutch drum if you haven't already. Remove the snap ring that holds the spring retainer to the drum. One per side. Don't get hurt in the process. You need to rig something to depress the spring retainer and spring so you can remove the snap ring and release the pressure off the spring safely. Blow the pistons out with compressed air if they don't want to come out. There's orings in the pistons that need to be replaced and the pistons need to be cleaned and checked.
There's a number on that bearing. Alexanders sells the bearing but a local bearing house or ebay might sell it for less. Buy a name brand bearing made in USA, Japan or Europe.
There is no torque converter rebuild kit but I figured out the reason for your comment. Alexanders labels their friction, pump, seal and gasket set a "Torque Converter Kit." They're just referring to a kit for tractors with 4x4 T/C transmissions. If your frictions and steels are good, then all you need is their Gasket/Seal kit. I would call and verify what all is included. I've always bought my parts from CNH but now there's selected parts being sold by online sellers like Alexanders and Cross Creek Tractor. You found Josephs. I'd ask them what they have before ordering from CNH. If CNH is unavoidable, I've found that Messicks is better than the local dealer.
There's exchange reman T/C-s out there from $350 to $600 but I don't know who's doing the reman. You mentioned you talked to Joseph Industries. I'd ask them what they want for a reman T/C first. Alexanders says to call for a price. Ask them for the country of origin and name of remanufacturer. There was a local rebuilder in San Jose years ago. They still may be in business but I heard some negative reports for their automotive converters some time ago so I'd be hesitant to recommend them. I don't think there's anything special about the Ford converter. I cut one open once and nothing unusual caught my eye. If you exchange, you need to determine whether you want a low stall or high stall converter. I prefer the low stall. More power at lower rpm. Best for the owner operator. When a multitude of idiots are operating the machine, a high stall converter makes it more difficult to tear up the shuttle.
You need to disassemble your clutch drum if you haven't already. Remove the snap ring that holds the spring retainer to the drum. One per side. Don't get hurt in the process. You need to rig something to depress the spring retainer and spring so you can remove the snap ring and release the pressure off the spring safely. Blow the pistons out with compressed air if they don't want to come out. There's orings in the pistons that need to be replaced and the pistons need to be cleaned and checked.
There's a number on that bearing. Alexanders sells the bearing but a local bearing house or ebay might sell it for less. Buy a name brand bearing made in USA, Japan or Europe.
There is no torque converter rebuild kit but I figured out the reason for your comment. Alexanders labels their friction, pump, seal and gasket set a "Torque Converter Kit." They're just referring to a kit for tractors with 4x4 T/C transmissions. If your frictions and steels are good, then all you need is their Gasket/Seal kit. I would call and verify what all is included. I've always bought my parts from CNH but now there's selected parts being sold by online sellers like Alexanders and Cross Creek Tractor. You found Josephs. I'd ask them what they have before ordering from CNH. If CNH is unavoidable, I've found that Messicks is better than the local dealer.
There's exchange reman T/C-s out there from $350 to $600 but I don't know who's doing the reman. You mentioned you talked to Joseph Industries. I'd ask them what they want for a reman T/C first. Alexanders says to call for a price. Ask them for the country of origin and name of remanufacturer. There was a local rebuilder in San Jose years ago. They still may be in business but I heard some negative reports for their automotive converters some time ago so I'd be hesitant to recommend them. I don't think there's anything special about the Ford converter. I cut one open once and nothing unusual caught my eye. If you exchange, you need to determine whether you want a low stall or high stall converter. I prefer the low stall. More power at lower rpm. Best for the owner operator. When a multitude of idiots are operating the machine, a high stall converter makes it more difficult to tear up the shuttle.