Hi Everyone,
Here are a few pics showing the repaired rod. I filed the sharp edges, cleaned very thoroughly and applied epoxy. Sanded smooth to 220 grit.
Thank you all for your support,
E
Nothing wrong with replacing the seals and re-using the rod. You can take the rod, piston and gland out of the cylinder on the machine, easiest usually. Then you get to see if you have the resources to break the piston nut/bolt loose. Then it's easy.
Thanks Delmer,
I've found seal kits for this cylinder that ranges from @ $60 for just the seal kit to $115 for seals with wear rings. Not sure what 'wear rings' are. Can anyone advise me on which I would normally replace?
I can just imagine how tight the gland nut is and don't have another machine to help break it free, so that's a concern for sure.
E
I have had pretty good experience with rechroming if your not in a time crunch a good shop will usually take a week maybe a little more I have found the place I use to be more economical than replacing
Hi AzIron,
I've included a few pics to help illustrate the scratch on the cylinder and whether it's a 'scratch' or 'gouge'. Have you or anyone else seen worse?
Thank you,
E
The only thing I would add, don't use any sealants, epoxies or flash chrome on a rod. With temperature changes and work loads, that material may come off and enter your hydraulic system. Then, its cat and mouse forever. Plugged orifice, sticking spools etc. Whenever I encounter a scratch, I'll hit it with a fine roloc buffing pad just to remove the sharp edges. If its gouged, it needs repair or resurfacing , but for most scratches you can just feel, the roloc is all you need.
Hmm, no epoxies huh? A bit late I'm afraid however it doesn't look like any has come off.
Would you take a look at the pics and say whether you think it's a 'scratch' or 'gouge' and how you might repair?
Thanks again,
E
If the seal only seeped you may get by with just replacing it thats a pretty easy cylinder to work on just depends if its time or money thats most valuable if it doesnt work out I would throw a rough guess that rod would cost around 400 to make sometimes the dealers offer a reman on so check that option also
The nuts going to be awful tight but you have a hoe its not a problem even if you have to plug the line chain the bucket up ect pin the rod eye to the hitch of the heaviest thing available a nice vee block cut from wood to support it and block the rod strait cut a nice six point wrench from heavy plate and press down with the hoe no fuss no drama with air guns
Hi Jonas,
It's encouraged you say "that's a pretty easy cylinder to work on". The workshop manual makes it look easy too
Apparently there's a lock screw holding the gland nut which needs to be drilled to access out it but seems doable.
However breaking the gland nut seems like the biggest problem. Are you saying to make a wrench from flat plate; and if so how thick, 1/2"? How about a 2ft adjustable wrench?
Much Appreciated,
E