D8h final drive fluid change?

[nicky 68a]

I see plenty of life left in your D8 tracks.
I’m guessing it just sees abit of use occasionally and you mentioned you don’t want to give yourself more work and expense than you allready have.
Post pics of you’re segments please.
They are a cheap and easy job that will make an incredible amount of difference to your old D8.
Don’t buy Cat for this machine,ITR segments will be half the price and just as good.
Just make sure you clean all the mating parts up perfectly and tighten them up to spec

 

[nicky 68a]

As for running on pins once your bushes hole through.
I have steady men in the seat,and I generally expect at least 300 clock hours out of the chains once they’ve worn the bush through before changing.That’s the price of a new undercarriage.
However,that tactic does require a steady operator and regular visual checks by myself.Snapping a link and have the track snake up and take a fender out or final drive on a hi drive tractor is a risk that I consider.
I’ve seen relatively deceant Cat chains snap way before they are worn.
In your case,good top rollers,new segments and steady treatment of the old girl will probably keep you going for the life of the D8.
I seriously doubt it’s going to be working 70 hours a week flat out spragging about pushing scrapers or ripping

 

[nicky 68a]

I’ve just seen you’re other thread sir.
Yes,your segments are worn out and you mention your bushes are worn through to the pins.
You also mention,you have a shiney new complete undercarriage to go at that you’ve already bought
You may aswell fit it all as it will give you a lot of satisfaction looking at it once finished

 

[Bluox]

I’ve just seen you’re other thread sir.
Yes,your segments are worn out and you mention your bushes are worn through to the pins.
You also mention,you have a shiney new complete undercarriage to go at that you’ve already bought
You may aswell fit it all as it will give you a lot of satisfaction looking at it once finished

Bingo .
Bob

 

[nicky 68a]

What’s your thoughts on what’s going on here?

 

[56wrench]

In my opinion, it all depends what the machine is used for and how many hours of use are projected. Also down time for repairs during a job and location need to be considered. If all my work is for customers then i can't afford to be broke down. If its on my back fourty doing my own jobs then its my time and inconvenience. Also depends on how you operate your machine - any type of machine. Careful and slower operation can still get the job done and get the most life out any component. It makes me cringe when i see operators rattling the tracks needlessly. Obviously they're not paying for any maintenance costs

 

[Truck Shop]

It makes me cringe when i see operators rattling the tracks needlessly. Obviously they're not paying for any maintenance costs

Same with trucks, if it came out of their pocket.

 

[Shimmy1]

What’s your thoughts on what’s going on here?

Nicky, are you referring to the uneven wear across the length of the links?

 

[Bluox]

What’s your thoughts on what’s going on here?

According to some of the guys on here with a lot more expertise than me they are barely out of warranty.
Kinda looks like dry joints?
Bob

 

[nicky 68a]

According to some of the guys on here with a lot more expertise than me they are barely out of warranty.
Kinda looks like dry joints?

Bob

So,what would your advice be?

 

[nicky 68a]

Nicky, are you referring to the uneven wear across the length of the links?

Sorry Shimmy,I should have stated that I was asking Blouxs Bob.
I’m very keen to consider his advice

 

[John C.]

Mr. Bluox, the attitude in your writing style comes through a so disagreeable to most as you keep trying to make yourself look better by putting down someone else. You might have mentioned that there was another post in your initial writing. But instead, your writing comes out that by what you see here indicates everyone else is stupid and you provide no basis for that. Now you come out throwing rocks at people that many of us have a very high respect for, again providing no basis for your comments.

This community is one of the few I regularly participate in. It is genuinely people trying to help others. It is devoid of the trolls who spew know it all attitude and inane put downs only trying to blow up their own egos. I would suggest that if you want to participate, drop the snide comments and stupid put downs.

 

[Bluox]

Mr. Bluox, the attitude in your writing style comes through a so disagreeable to most as you keep trying to make yourself look better by putting down someone else. You might have mentioned that there was another post in your initial writing. But instead, your writing comes out that by what you see here indicates everyone else is stupid and you provide no basis for that. Now you come out throwing rocks at people that many of us have a very high respect for, again providing no basis for your comments.

This community is one of the few I regularly participate in. It is genuinely people trying to help others. It is devoid of the trolls who spew know it all attitude and inane put downs only trying to blow up their own egos. I would suggest that if you want to participate, drop the snide comments and stupid put downs.

I think I did mention I read his other post where he said he was running on the pins.
Reading this guys plan to winter overhaul his under carriage and he has the parts and to use his tractor next year to clear land some one telling him to keep running a past junk undercarriage makes sense in your world?
Bob

 

[Shimmy1]

Sorry Shimmy,I should have stated that I was asking Blouxs Bob.
I’m very keen to consider his advice

No problem. I was just wondering what exactly you were intending to show in your pic. I used to run a 7H and I noticed the same wear (uneven link wear) happening on rails that had new seals installed due to leaking joints. It was a set of rails we purchased used off a salvage tractor that were at 90% (as measured by Cat) and when we went to install them noticed the leaking seals.

 

[nicky 68a]

Shimmy,the undercarriage is on a older D9 that was well gone undercarriage wise when it arrived.I’d never meant to keep it this long,but I’ve had another busier than average year with the big tractors again,and it keeps coming in handy in taking the heat out the job.
The entire undercarriage is completely wore out in my opinion,but I drive this one myself only.
It sees 2 shifts a week and I’ve clocked another 500 hours on it.
I’ve put some new segments on it about 80 hours ago to take it to complete destruction.
I’ve deliberately left the cannon in spec according to the operators manual allthough the track sag is way beyond help
I bought it on a whim with my dealer chap and I’ve kind of taken a shine to the old dog as it performs very well.I’m not really sure wether to keep it and retrack it,or flog it.
Like the original posters D8H,the tracks were pretty well done when he bought it,but with careful operation by him,and a set of segments,my opinion was that he could quite easily get the lifespan he needed out of it without paying through the nose for all new tracks.
However,it transpires that he allready has a complete set lying in his yard anyway.
As for scalloping on your D7 rails,all my high drives suffer from that too,but there’s allways 30 or 40% rail height left on my operation once the bushes are holed through,so I don’t mind.
Blouxs has kindly offered to help me on the D9 wear thing too,but I’ve a mind to run it on longer yet.

 

[tctractors]

Shimmy,the undercarriage is on a older D9 that was well gone undercarriage wise when it arrived.I’d never meant to keep it this long,but I’ve had another busier than average year with the big tractors again,and it keeps coming in handy in taking the heat out the job.
The entire undercarriage is completely wore out in my opinion,but I drive this one myself only.
It sees 2 shifts a week and I’ve clocked another 500 hours on it.
I’ve put some new segments on it about 80 hours ago to take it to complete destruction.
I’ve deliberately left the cannon in spec according to the operators manual allthough the track sag is way beyond help
I bought it on a whim with my dealer chap and I’ve kind of taken a shine to the old dog as it performs very well.I’m not really sure wether to keep it and retrack it,or flog it.
Like the original posters D8H,the tracks were pretty well done when he bought it,but with careful operation by him,and a set of segments,my opinion was that he could quite easily get the lifespan he needed out of it without paying through the nose for all new tracks.
However,it transpires that he allready has a complete set lying in his yard anyway.
As for scalloping on your D7 rails,all my high drives suffer from that too,but there’s allways 30 or 40% rail height left on my operation once the bushes are holed through,so I don’t mind.
Blouxs has kindly offered to help me on the D9 wear thing too,but I’ve a mind to run it on longer yet.

Nicky, thought it worth a few verbs on the Bluox thing as it is a retarder that I first came across built onto a a 450 bhp 3406, they seemed to lack any strong marketing in the U.K. and Europe, possibly due to the wide use of the Jacobs Brake that could be fitted to a lot of common engines DAF etc, Scania had it's own Hydraulic Retarder that worked very well, also Volvo had things sorted so the options for the Bluox were very limited here and very scarce to find. tctractors

 

[.RC.]

What’s your thoughts on what’s going on here?

From my vast internet based armchair experience on dozers you have not it washed it is what is going on there.

Other then that I would not have a clue but in classic forum etiquette thought I would add my bit anyway.

 

[nicky 68a]

From my vast internet based armchair experience on dozers you have not it washed it is what is going on there.
Other then that I would not have a clue but in classic forum etiquette thought I would add my bit anyway.

RC,I think you are on to something here
I will give it a wash and polish first thing in the morning!