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D8h final drive fluid change?

D8HCattle

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Joined
Jun 25, 2021
Messages
47
Location
Northeast
Changed my transmission fluid/filters/screens…. Went to change finals fluid and filter and the oil level is above the fill level… odd. Any idea on what I did wrong or what is wrong. When changing tranny fluid. All fluid was drained from plug on bottom of machine… no side plugs were opened.
 

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56wrench

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Dec 4, 2016
Messages
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Location
alberta
That could be an indication of the upper pinion seals leaking internally between the steering clutch compartment and causing the final drive to be overfull. It happened on my 46a. At the time, the finals showed no unusual wear so i removed the canopy, fuel tank etc. And the steering clutch covers. Then the steering clutches and then removed the upper pinions through the steering clutch compartments and took them to a guy who had the tooling to pull the hubs and press them back on after the seals were changed. Mine had the old lip-type seals and were hard and worn out. Maybe yours does too or i think there was a field-installed kit available to convert to duo-cone seals or maybe the newer serial number range came with duo-cone seals. What does your parts book show?
 

Bluox

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Jun 19, 2010
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WA state
You can change the pinion seals and or bearings when you have the final apart when you change the sprocket hubs.
Bob
 

nicky 68a

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Apr 14, 2013
Messages
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Location
england
I’ve had D8’s transferring like this before over the years.
Yes,it could be a sign that something is going to let go expensive style.
However,they are all 40/50 years old and most likely the seals are simply hard and weeping when it’s stood.
Let them settle and weep through into the final drive casing,then top up your oil level in the transmission.
Most likely,it will run for ever.
I’ve had them like this and still done 10/12 hour shifts without issues.
Probably weeping after months of being stood.Drain the finals off and they’ll probably take a long time to fill back up again for the duration of a job.If they fill up quickly though,you’ve got a problem and they need taking apart
 

D8HCattle

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2021
Messages
47
Location
Northeast
I’ve had D8’s transferring like this before over the years.
Yes,it could be a sign that something is going to let go expensive style.
However,they are all 40/50 years old and most likely the seals are simply hard and weeping when it’s stood.
Let them settle and weep through into the final drive casing,then top up your oil level in the transmission.
Most likely,it will run for ever.
I’ve had them like this and still done 10/12 hour shifts without issues.
Probably weeping after months of being stood.Drain the finals off and they’ll probably take a long time to fill back up again for the duration of a job.If they fill up quickly though,you’ve got a problem and they need taking apart
It was totally fine and was being worked regularly. Now it has sat for about a year while I rebuild the ripper cylinders and was deployed for a long time. So now I’m finally getting back to it and this was what I noticed. I’ll drain it off and go from there. Thank you!
 

D8HCattle

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2021
Messages
47
Location
Northeast
That could be an indication of the upper pinion seals leaking internally between the steering clutch compartment and causing the final drive to be overfull. It happened on my 46a. At the time, the finals showed no unusual wear so i removed the canopy, fuel tank etc. And the steering clutch covers. Then the steering clutches and then removed the upper pinions through the steering clutch compartments and took them to a guy who had the tooling to pull the hubs and press them back on after the seals were changed. Mine had the old lip-type seals and were hard and worn out. Maybe yours does too or i think there was a field-installed kit available to convert to duo-cone seals or maybe the newer serial number range came with duo-cone seals. What does your parts book show?
I’ll take a look and get back to you, thank you very much for then info though!
 

tctractors

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,415
Location
Worc U.K.
The odds are a few possible faults here but I am no expert, firstly check all the breather points on the back case, this would include checking the tubes are clear to both F/Drives, the oil transfer is often blamed on the top pinion seals but this I have found to be a lesser reason, the common problem is fine cracks in the main case after years of Scraper or Ripper work, the best thing to do if things are all running well, is to fit a new copper gasket to the fill plugs then tighten firm and forget about it, always stand off to 1 side when you check any D8 or D9 F/Drive fill/level plugs as there is a great chance of getting a soak, I have found the breather tubes to the drives to be cracked in the past also, if it's got to much oil in it's a lot better that no oil, don't make work for yourself until you have to pull things down. tctractors. p.s. I often do a simple test after rebuilding the back ends by hooking shop air into the F/Drive breather position at around 5 to 7 psi and check for leaks into the main case, they soon show up.
 
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nicky 68a

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2013
Messages
1,170
Location
england
The odds are a few possible faults here but I am no expert, firstly check all the breather points on the back case, this would include checking the tubes are clear to both F/Drives, the oil transfer is often blamed on the top pinion seals but this I have found to be a lesser reason, the common problem is fine cracks in the main case after years of Scraper or Ripper work, the best thing to do if things are all running well, is to fit a new copper gasket to the fill plugs then tighten firm and forget about it, always stand off to 1 side when you check any D8 or D9 F/Drive fill/level plugs as there is a great chance of getting a soak, I have found the breather tubes to the drives to be cracked in the past also, if it's got to much oil in it's a lot better that no oil, don't make work for yourself until you have to pull things down. tctractors. p.s. I often do a simple test after rebuilding the back ends by hooking shop air into the F/Drive breather position at around 5 to 7 psi and check for leaks into the main case, they soon show up.
I think it was a couple of years into my time before I realised what the breathers actually were Tony
They would get buried in a layer of dust about 6” deep.The first time I ever jetwashed under the tank,I found some strange things called steering clutch covers and the likes.I wish I didn’t know
By the way,I never thought about the fine cracks in the casing weeping through.I learn something every day.
Hope you’re well.
 

D8HCattle

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2021
Messages
47
Location
Northeast
The odds are a few possible faults here but I am no expert, firstly check all the breather points on the back case, this would include checking the tubes are clear to both F/Drives, the oil transfer is often blamed on the top pinion seals but this I have found to be a lesser reason, the common problem is fine cracks in the main case after years of Scraper or Ripper work, the best thing to do if things are all running well, is to fit a new copper gasket to the fill plugs then tighten firm and forget about it, always stand off to 1 side when you check any D8 or D9 F/Drive fill/level plugs as there is a great chance of getting a soak, I have found the breather tubes to the drives to be cracked in the past also, if it's got to much oil in it's a lot better that no oil, don't make work for yourself until you have to pull things down. tctractors. p.s. I often do a simple test after rebuilding the back ends by hooking shop air into the F/Drive breather position at around 5 to 7 psi and check for leaks into the main case, they soon show up.
Thank soo much, really appreciate your time and sharing your experiences. Lord knows I often make more work for myself, yet with this thing I’d rather just keep it to work that really needs to be done…. Not to hijack my own post but would you share your thoughts on my UC, I’ve already bought new parts over the years to replace these. I think they are warn out… other say they may have life left in them.. planning to replace all.
 

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Bluox

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Your pictures show a wore out undercarriage but a few more would help like the sprocket, the front idler, the bushings, and the bottom rollers.
Bob
 

John C.

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You got some wear but are far from worn out. Take photos of the front idlers and their position on the track frames for a good quick check. The rubber plug in the track pin shows that you have SALT chains. When the combination of wear between the track chains and the bottom rollers is 100% or more is when you see wear marks at about half way across the track pin. As Bluox says, sprocket tooth thickness and bottom rollers would also give a good indication. If your machine has rock guards, take a photo of the distance between the bottom of the guards and the back of the track pads.
 

Bluox

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Your pictures show a wore out undercarriage but a few more would help like the sprocket, the front idler, the bushings, and the bottom rollers.
Bob
I looked at your other post and you tracks are past wore out they be junk.
So if you have work for that machine and the right parts time to have someone get after it.
Bob
 

John C.

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Here is a video showing what to look for on oval track dozers. Decide for yourself how badly worn your machine is.

 

Bluox

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Here is a video showing what to look for on oval track dozers. Decide for yourself how badly worn your machine is.

When the bushings are worn thru and you are running on the pins even SALT tracks are junk.
Bob
 

tctractors

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After all these years, you still never miss an opportunity to take a shot at someone whose knowledge is vastly superior to yours. Hard to understand why you feel so inferior.
Bluox, can say anything he likes about anything it just adds to the Pot I feel, I am now 50 years + working with equipment so i tend to have some Non Standard thoughts on the replacement of parts, some Firms in the U.K. have a "Healing Bench" this is a nasty old Bench in a dark corner that they heap up with worn out components, these parts become good enough to use again to just get something working after less than a few weeks of Bench time, so it follows that if you get every bit of life out of the component so it is total scrap it will never get placed on the Healing Bench, it's just my thoughts in my World. tctractors
 
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