JosephG80
Member
The case and sprocket ♂️ Lol
You have to look on the bright side. It's not ALL trashed......The case and sprocket ♂️ Lol
No unless the teeth are bad you don't need to pull the steering clutches .I’m assuming... the collar on the end of the shaft is a press on retainer. I should be able to pull this and slide the gear off the splines to replace. Is that right?
That isn't a retainer. Thats the inner bearing race for the outer pinion bearing
Well then you will be pulling the seat and the fuel tank so you can pull the steering clutch and flange.so pulling that race isn’t going to let me pull that gear? that gear has a couple chunks missing as well.
Need to see the bearings on the sprocket shaft but usually caused by not adjusting sprocket bearings .Is it safe to assume that bearing failure is the likely culprit in this failure? Do any of you guys have experience where oil sampling has indicated a likely bearing failure before it ends up like this? Just wondering since I had the bearings fail in an idler on my Challenger this fall, never had been run low on oil, and the oil had always been changed between 500 and 1000 hours.
How often are you supposed to do that? I bought another tractor this fall, I plan on checking the preload on the idler hub bearings when I change the oil. Pretty straightforward procedure to set the preload, torque to 400 while rotating, back off to 50, then torque to 160. If I want to check the preload I'd just need to bend the locking tab back and check the torque, correct?Need to see the bearings on the sprocket shaft but usually caused by not adjusting sprocket bearings .
By the time oil sample shows damage all ready done.
Bob
I was talking about a D6 I be clueless about Challenger tractors but that sounds about right.How often are you supposed to do that? I bought another tractor this fall, I plan on checking the preload on the idler hub bearings when I change the oil. Pretty straightforward procedure to set the preload, torque to 400 while rotating, back off to 50, then torque to 160. If I want to check the preload I'd just need to bend the locking tab back and check the torque, correct?
That gear and the shaft it’s on is one piece. The other end of that shaft you can’t see is threaded and behind the threads is a tapered splined shaft, and behind that is the bearing case. That shaft is about 12 inches long on total length....your just seeing part of it. You will need to remove the fuel tank, seat, etc.....to get to the top of the bevel gear case. Like I said.....you really need the service manual. This is going to be way more involved than your thinking it will be.so pulling that race isn’t going to let me pull that gear? that gear has a couple chunks missing as well.
Always have to rain on someone's parade VE?That gear and the shaft it’s on is one piece. The other end of that shaft you can’t see is threaded and behind the threads is a tapered splined shaft, and behind that is the bearing case. That shaft is about 12 inches long on total length....your just seeing part of it. You will need to remove the fuel tank, seat, etc.....to get to the top of the bevel gear case. Like I said.....you really need the service manual. This is going to be way more involved than your thinking it will be.
I’m just sharing the love man!Always have to rain on someone's parade VE?