D6D final repairs

[JosephG80]

The case and sprocket ‍♂️ Lol

 

[Nige]

The case and sprocket ‍♂️ Lol

You have to look on the bright side. It's not ALL trashed......

 

[Dave Neubert]

New pinion, new intermediate pinion, new bull gear bearings and seals I have seen far worse Classic Cat or CTP parts

 

[lantraxco]

Those corners are dog eared. The ones they let run out of oil have pretty rainbow colors in them, mostly blue and purple

 

[Vetech63]

Yeah, I’ve seen worse by far. I would recommend the OEM parts. Years ago the Classic was a great option, but my experience with those type of parts in Classics the last 10 years haven’t been all that great. Spend the extra money and get this right the first time and not face a possible redo.

 

[.RC.]

Of course they will now need a puller to pull the dead axle. If the top pinion is buggered then a puller to pull the hub to remove it.

Might as well pull the other side as well. If one side is buggered, the other might not be far behind. Least then you can swap any serviceable parts.

tctractors is the resident guru on that style of final drives.

 

[JosephG80]

Thanks all y’all. It’s not as nasty as I had expected either.

 

[Vetech63]

Thats going to be alot more work if you are replacing that pinion. It goes through the case and is tied to the drive flange of the steering clutch. You really need your service manual!

 

[Bluox]

I’m assuming... the collar on the end of the shaft is a press on retainer. I should be able to pull this and slide the gear off the splines to replace. Is that right?

No unless the teeth are bad you don't need to pull the steering clutches .
Your pictures don't show any damage to the intermediate gear but the pinion shaft will need to be replaced, they are 2 pieces. Heck the dead axle don't look that bad.
Need pictures of the sprocket shaft when you get it pulled.
Bob

 

[Vetech63]

That isn't a retainer. Thats the inner bearing race for the outer pinion bearing

 

[JosephG80]

Service manual will be here Monday.

 

[JosephG80]

That isn't a retainer. Thats the inner bearing race for the outer pinion bearing

so pulling that race isn’t going to let me pull that gear? that gear has a couple chunks missing as well.

 

[Shimmy1]

Is it safe to assume that bearing failure is the likely culprit in this failure? Do any of you guys have experience where oil sampling has indicated a likely bearing failure before it ends up like this? Just wondering since I had the bearings fail in an idler on my Challenger this fall, never had been run low on oil, and the oil had always been changed between 500 and 1000 hours.

 

[Bluox]

so pulling that race isn’t going to let me pull that gear? that gear has a couple chunks missing as well.

Well then you will be pulling the seat and the fuel tank so you can pull the steering clutch and flange.
Bob

 

[Bluox]

Is it safe to assume that bearing failure is the likely culprit in this failure? Do any of you guys have experience where oil sampling has indicated a likely bearing failure before it ends up like this? Just wondering since I had the bearings fail in an idler on my Challenger this fall, never had been run low on oil, and the oil had always been changed between 500 and 1000 hours.

Need to see the bearings on the sprocket shaft but usually caused by not adjusting sprocket bearings .
By the time oil sample shows damage all ready done.
Bob

 

[Shimmy1]

Need to see the bearings on the sprocket shaft but usually caused by not adjusting sprocket bearings .
By the time oil sample shows damage all ready done.
Bob

How often are you supposed to do that? I bought another tractor this fall, I plan on checking the preload on the idler hub bearings when I change the oil. Pretty straightforward procedure to set the preload, torque to 400 while rotating, back off to 50, then torque to 160. If I want to check the preload I'd just need to bend the locking tab back and check the torque, correct?

 

[Bluox]

How often are you supposed to do that? I bought another tractor this fall, I plan on checking the preload on the idler hub bearings when I change the oil. Pretty straightforward procedure to set the preload, torque to 400 while rotating, back off to 50, then torque to 160. If I want to check the preload I'd just need to bend the locking tab back and check the torque, correct?

I was talking about a D6 I be clueless about Challenger tractors but that sounds about right.
Bob

 

[Vetech63]

so pulling that race isn’t going to let me pull that gear? that gear has a couple chunks missing as well.

That gear and the shaft it’s on is one piece. The other end of that shaft you can’t see is threaded and behind the threads is a tapered splined shaft, and behind that is the bearing case. That shaft is about 12 inches long on total length....your just seeing part of it. You will need to remove the fuel tank, seat, etc.....to get to the top of the bevel gear case. Like I said.....you really need the service manual. This is going to be way more involved than your thinking it will be.

 

[Shimmy1]

That gear and the shaft it’s on is one piece. The other end of that shaft you can’t see is threaded and behind the threads is a tapered splined shaft, and behind that is the bearing case. That shaft is about 12 inches long on total length....your just seeing part of it. You will need to remove the fuel tank, seat, etc.....to get to the top of the bevel gear case. Like I said.....you really need the service manual. This is going to be way more involved than your thinking it will be.

Always have to rain on someone's parade VE?

 

[Vetech63]

Always have to rain on someone's parade VE?

I’m just sharing the love man!