Charging problem

[willie59]

thinking the alt is bad?

Don't know at this point, only saying you need to test it to find out. Since it only has two wires going to it tells you it's a permanent magnet alternator, does not have an external exciter wire, meaning, when it's turning, the permanent magnets create the magnetic field to generate current. Being that it's an alternator, it generates AC current. And since AC current does not have the equivalent horsepower as DC current, it has to generate at least 20 to 25 volts AC to produce required 13 +/- volts DC output at the rectifier.

 

[NCPIPELINE]

Ok so alt tested fine, checked the ground checking everything seems good. But I am still getting the dumby charging system light on console and after a few days of use battery is dead....

 

[FIREMANMARK]

Do you have the electrical schematic?

 

[NCPIPELINE]

No.

 

[FIREMANMARK]

see if this helps. it's for the model 322= dingo. http://www.imarksweb.net/aws/view.php?u=aHR0cDovL2JzZWhvbWUubmV0L3BkZi8xMlZfV1BNLnBkZg==

 

[FIREMANMARK]

battery not charging = charging wire is not supplying power or enough power. Or the battery is bad. If the battery is good; then the charging wire is not supplying power or enough power. Mine was a bad rectifier and harness. You just bought a new rectifier... wired correct?? don't go by the last guys wiring.... The last guy that wired mine had his head up his butt.

 

[FIREMANMARK]

sorry just read this guide and it doesn't explain the dingo.. it said it did. ill keep looking

 

[FIREMANMARK]

I think you can download the schematic here but you have to sign up. http://www.blitzdownloads.com/search/2505/wiring+diagram+toro+dingo+322.html

 

[NCPIPELINE]

Which one is the charging wire?

 

[FIREMANMARK]

The one that returns from the regulator/rectifier to the starter solenoid (same side as the battery connection) usually a white wire.

 

[UNIVERSAL]

GOOD MORN. I'VE BEEN READING ABOUT YOUR PROWLER. I HAVE IN MY SHOP THE SAME PROBLEM (UNABLE TO GET WIRING DIAGRAMS FOR THE PROWLER SIDE OF THE UNIT). I'M A HONDA DEALER AND RECENTLY REPLACED THE MOTOR,BUT I'M HAVING TROUBLE BRINGING THE 20th CENTURY WIRING TO THE 21st CENTURY ha.ha. AS WITH YOUR UNIT I AM PLAGUED WITH TOO MANY HANDS ON THIS THING FROM THE PAST. WERE YOU ABLE TO FIND ANY DIAGRAMS? MY SER.#IS 0162.
ANY INFORMATION WOULD BE HELPFUL.
THANK YOU, BRIAN

 

[FIREMANMARK]

Brian,
Yes I did find the schematic. Actually there are several. I can email them to you or post them here. Problem is that I have the night watch (firefighter) it's 3:45 AM I leave for a 9 day vacation in the morning and I don't have the info here. it's on the home computer. I will do my best to get it to you before I leave if I can... It was a simple fix for me. I got the parts list from mertz and ordered everything and replaced everything including the high range switch ($55.00) man does that make it go fast!!! Total cost was about $400.00 and now it is factory.

 

[UNIVERSAL]

THANK YOU FOR YOUR RESPONSE ,
MY E-MAIL briandmn1@yahoo.com LETS CHAT WHEN YOU GET A CHANCE.
THANK YOU SIR,
BRIAN

 

[NCPIPELINE]

Bringing this back up. Still have not been able to track down the problem. I think the only thing left to do is replace the battery cable, but why would that not charge the battery? Everything else has been replaced.

 

[FIREMANMARK]

I guess that you are welcome for the schematics I sent even without any thanks on your part. If the battery cable positive wire or the wire going to ground or the ground itself does not have a "GOOD" connection you get "NO" charge. If the connection is less than adiquite = no charge or even discharge!

 

[Taris Siswoyo]

Hi .... greeting..... try check the magnet on rotor after switch on... if there is no magnet... so check the carbon brush... maybe its too short than it cant touch the slip ring...

 

[NCPIPELINE]

Sorry about that Fireman and Thank You for the drawings. My bad. No excuse. The only 2 things left I feel is that white wire in the original photos, it is a 2 piece wire, I replaced the shorter end from the starter as you suggested. Can not tell where the 2nd half goes... Other than in my mind all it leaves is the positive and negatives from the battery, but it starts up just fine, just does not recharge. Have been switching batteries back and forth every few days...

 

[FIREMANMARK]

It is I that am sorry NCPIPELINE. I was mistaken you for UNIVERSAL.
I don't see a white wire in the photos. I will tell you that I have a white wire on mine that attaches to the positive end of the starter. It comes from the rectifier and has like 14 volts on it at high idle; less at a slower idle. From there it goes to the battery via the red battery cable. When you bought the new rectifier did you buy a new cable harness for it? I did and thank God I did. I had a bad wire in the harness; not at the end but "in" the harness.

 

[Tinkerer]

Bringing this back up. Still have not been able to track down the problem. I think the only thing left to do is replace the battery cable, but why would that not charge the battery? Everything else has been replaced.

It is not unusual for corrosion to start at the battery post and creep towards the starter, inside the cable insulation. I have seen it happen with varying amounts of severity. If it is severe the insulation swells sometimes it does not swell.

 

[NCPIPELINE]

Ok. Which way would you go first. New positive and negatives or harness?