HighFlyerAK
Well-Known Member
Yes, as mentioned in my first post... Serial #CAT0299CJJSP00667
Do you have a location for the mechanical valve?
Do you have a location for the mechanical valve?
Did you raise the cover above the radiator to raise the radiator perfectly level to be able to check the Rad level with the cap off. Some folks have been fooled by those sight glasses. Those Cat caps are near the back and a bit of a job to get off some times. Just in case it was missed. Have worked a lot on Cat skid steers and am looking for the solution to this for my archives. SimonHallo Nige,
Yes, I did. coolant is visible in the little sight glass on the radiator and the overflow coolant reservoir is about one inch (give or take) above minimum level with the door open.
Did you raise the cover above the radiator to raise the radiator perfectly level to be able to check the Rad level with the cap off. Some folks have been fooled by those sight glasses. Those Cat caps are near the back and a bit of a job to get off some times. Just in case it was missed. Have worked a lot on Cat skid steers and am looking for the solution to this for my archives. Simon
Thanks for replying back. I can put it into my archives now. I have seen this a few times before. SimonAs a matter of fact, I have not. And that was the reason why I didn‘t catch it!
The residue in the sight glass was enough to ‚pretend‘ there is a visible level. And I fell for it.
The radiator was completely empty, or 2 gallons worth low, give or take.
Thanks for replying back. I can put it into my archives now. I have seen this a few times before. Simon
It doesn't look too bad, you could get close enough to take a picture of it at least If it was mine, I'd at least try to turn it to cold and back to hot several times to see if you get any action out of it. You could try removing the actuator from the valve and freeing it up. Once you mess around a little, sounds like you'll be happy to get the new one and be done if you can.
Sorry, never went back to look.
You have the electrical-type valve, latest Part Number 480-8589. You probably have the former P/N 328-3317 or the even older 266-2432. The valve has been updated a few times. The valve actuator is the weak point.
It's #8 below, buried deep next to the heater core. Have fun.........
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In answer to your question I dont know of any Sequence for the repair. I always start on any heating problem with a physical check of the rad with the cap off. Then I make sure if the machine has an in and out of coolant to the engine block shutoff valves that they are fully open. Turn the control to full heat and see if heat is coming to the heater core . On most you have to Raise the Cab Up to get under. On some you can put a 5/8 hose joiner on the hose to the heater core before the temperature valve and hook a small piece of hose to go to the heater inlet. This will bypass the heater valve tll you get a new one. First though see if the heater valve is just a little stuck and needing to be freed up. If heat starts pouring through after that plan for a new valve or leave bypassed for the winter. There is lots of choices. Hope that helps. SimonSimon,
May I ask a follow-up question?
Are there any resources (www, YouTube, etc.) you know of, which would show a more in-detail process of changing out the heater control valve on this type of machine?
I have been looking all over and believe it to be pretty straight forward, although I have a chance of catching a ride for the skid steer to go to town, 60 miles away, and pay big money for it being done by a professional.
Thank you,
Andreas
In answer to your question I dont know of any Sequence for the repair. I always start on any heating problem with a physical check of the rad with the cap off. Then I make sure if the machine has an in and out of coolant to the engine block shutoff valves that they are fully open. Turn the control to full heat and see if heat is coming to the heater core . On most you have to Raise the Cab Up to get under. On some you can put a 5/8 hose joiner on the hose to the heater core before the temperature valve and hook a small piece of hose to go to the heater inlet. This will bypass the heater valve tll you get a new one. First though see if the heater valve is just a little stuck and needing to be freed up. If heat starts pouring through after that plan for a new valve or leave bypassed for the winter. There is lots of choices. Hope that helps. Simon
Something to also be aware of is the anti freeze strength. too week and it will turn to snow, and plug up in the fine heater core. Too strong and it gels up. also plugging up the fine ports of the heater core. I have had this happen more than once, on different vehicles. In Manitoba it is not unusual to get minus 35. I use a refractometer to test antifreeze strength. I usually try to get it around minus 40. but I am bad for pouring pure antifreeze into a system.. That is how I know it will also gel up. It usually does not bother the engine, as a radiator has larger holes through the rad as opposed to a heater core.
I grew up in Saskatchewan and the coldest I experiences was minus 45.. but not a breath of wind. you could not talk outside without a scarf, as it was like you were at a dentist after some freezing.