CAT299C - Overheating & NO cab heat

[HighFlyerAK]

TBH I’d use Cat premixed ELC or something like Peak Final Charge NOAT which is basically the same thing. You should be able to get the Peak product at any motor spares supply house.

Make sure you get the “nitrited” product which is designed for off-highway equipment.

Thank you for that info Nige!!

 

[Nige]

Google “Old World Industries”. They make the product that goes in the Cat-branded ELC containers.

 

[Simon C]

Simon,
I/we did think about bypassing the valve, it would have been definitely good for the winter that way.
But the local CAT dealer happen to have the part and I might as well.
I guess draining all the coolant is my biggest ‚question‘ - AND, we found that there is a coolant leak which is quite substantial, and we have not found yet, where it is!

This is painful to keep the post up-to-date. I feel rather incompetent, instead of making head-way on this issue.
But I am determined!

Last thing to mention:

I have learned that this machine had at some point a WEBASTO heater installed and it makes me wonder whether that has something to do with the cab heat not working at all.
As a matter of fact, I have not until this winter, every even tried to use heat. So it makes me wonder how long...

Again - Thank you!

Put a rad pressuizer gauge on the top of the rad on a cold morning. Pump it up to about 10 PSI or whatever is on the rad cap and start checking for leaks. When cold it usually leaks best. Check around top of rad cap and by sight glass or anywhere small hoses are attached. Also check the hoses going under to the heater core. hope you find it. Simon

 

[HighFlyerAK]

Put a rad pressuizer gauge on the top of the rad on a cold morning. Pump it up to about 10 PSI or whatever is on the rad cap and start checking for leaks. When cold it usually leaks best. Check around top of rad cap and by sight glass or anywhere small hoses are attached. Also check the hoses going under to the heater core. hope you find it. Simon

Simon,
This sounds like the best way to fo after it!
I still don‘t have the valve, which I need to drive to town for (2hrs round trip). But I will pick up one of those radiator pressure gauges for sure. I don’t like the guessing game of where it could leak. I know it leaks!
Hopefully I will get this done soon!!!
Thank you!

 

[HighFlyerAK]

Nige or Simon!
I finally got my hands on a coolant pressure test kit (not as easy as I thought up here in AK).
Thanks to Simon‘s post... 10psi! You are the man!!!

I also got the new restriction valve in hands.

Thanks, and hopefully I can put this to rest quick...

 

[Simon C]

Nige or Simon!
I finally got my hands on a coolant pressure test kit (not as easy as I thought up here in AK).
Thanks to Simon‘s post... 10psi! You are the man!!!

I also got the new restriction valve in hands.

Thanks, and hopefully I can put this to rest quick...

Has worked for me many a times on the job. Look forward to my next trip to homer Alaska, went in 2009 for 17 days. Was great.

 

[Nige]

No reason why you can’t pressurize it to 15psi for a short time if you’re looking for a leak and having difficulty finding it.

 

[HighFlyerAK]

FINAL FIX!
First - THANK YOU to everyone who made comments and helped in the process!

Whenever I research something, very rarely people post the final conclusion or the reason for what they had trouble with. I won‘t do that!

Problem - Engine overheating!
Cause - radiator drained almost empty due to a leak at the heater control valve (underneath the cab)
Solution - refill coolant!

Problem - NO heat in cab!
Cause - bad heater control valve
Solution - replaced valve!

Short summary of events:
After using my skidsteer for about 25-30hrs this summer after having a head gasket replaced from the local CAT dealer, I parked it in perfect working condition. And I did not use cab heat at all.
When trying to run it with heat this winter, both of above problems occurred.
Refilling solved the overheating, but a slow drain of coolant and the lack of any heat sustained.
By doing a pressure test of the coolant system, I pretty quickly found the puddle of coolant underneath the cab in the very front.
The actual part what leaked, was the valve body at the part where the black plastic connects to the heater core brass/copper part (not sure what material it is).

Comments:
The heater control valve is TERRIBLE in the way how it connects and how flimsy it is. We were unable to actually install the two bolts which hold the control valve body firm in place. After one hour, we gave up on it due to being very cold and just let it sit in there unsecured. Fingers crossed!

 

[HighFlyerAK]

No reason why you can’t pressurize it to 15psi for a short time if you’re looking for a leak and having difficulty finding it.

I thought it might be worth to mention, but my radiator cap has 13lbs printed on it.
I assume that translates to 13psi? Or is there a conversion needed?!

 

[Nige]

No, it means 13psi. But for the purposes of a test you can actually pressurize the system to more than the working pressure. If the system is in good condition the spring in the cap should be the first thing to lift and relieve pressure.