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CAT299C - Overheating & NO cab heat

Discussion in 'Compact Track/Multi Terrain Loaders' started by HighFlyerAK, Jan 7, 2021.

  1. HighFlyerAK

    HighFlyerAK Well-Known Member

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    Yes, as mentioned in my first post... Serial #CAT0299CJJSP00667

    Do you have a location for the mechanical valve?
     
  2. HighFlyerAK

    HighFlyerAK Well-Known Member

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    5281B207-266A-4D86-88C4-9BACF422AA9C.jpeg
     
  3. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    Sorry, never went back to look.
    You have the electrical-type valve, latest Part Number 480-8589. You probably have the former P/N 328-3317 or the even older 266-2432. The valve has been updated a few times. The valve actuator is the weak point.
    It's #8 below, buried deep next to the heater core. Have fun.........

    upload_2021-1-9_23-2-4.png
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2021
  4. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    No idea about in AK, but a new one shows as $215 on my system.

    upload_2021-1-10_0-0-37.png
     
  5. Simon C

    Simon C Well-Known Member

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    Did you raise the cover above the radiator to raise the radiator perfectly level to be able to check the Rad level with the cap off. Some folks have been fooled by those sight glasses. Those Cat caps are near the back and a bit of a job to get off some times. Just in case it was missed. Have worked a lot on Cat skid steers and am looking for the solution to this for my archives. Simon
     
  6. HighFlyerAK

    HighFlyerAK Well-Known Member

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    As a matter of fact, I have not. And that was the reason why I didn‘t catch it!
    The residue in the sight glass was enough to ‚pretend‘ there is a visible level. And I fell for it.
    The radiator was completely empty, or 2 gallons worth low, give or take.
     
  7. HighFlyerAK

    HighFlyerAK Well-Known Member

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    Nige,
    from what I can tell (see picture above), I have indeed the valve (P/N 328-3317) installed!
    We did crack the line to the valve to verify whether there is fluid in it or just air, which would prevent the flow to the heater core, but that checked out.
    Would you and/or someone else agree that the valve has a very high degree of confidence to be the issue?!
    I don‘t mind ordering it, but if there are strong opinions of something else to be the issue, I would go that route first.
    Last question!

    Any chance to test the potentiometer of the temperature selector knob in the cab?
    We pulled the three wire plug from the valve body, but since we can‘t be in the cab and measuring at the plug end, AND we didn‘t know what we would be looking for, we abandoned that thought.

    Thank you all so far, and I will keep the progress posted.

    Overheating - Solved!
    Cause - No coolant in the radiator due to small leak on coolant hose coming from the thermostat/water pump housing.
    I just ran the machine for a solid hour with the coolant temperature being steady around 188°F, dropping to low 170‘s when only running on idle.
     
  8. Simon C

    Simon C Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for replying back. I can put it into my archives now. I have seen this a few times before. Simon
     
  9. HighFlyerAK

    HighFlyerAK Well-Known Member

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    Simon,

    May I ask a follow-up question?

    Are there any resources (www, YouTube, etc.) you know of, which would show a more in-detail process of changing out the heater control valve on this type of machine?
    I have been looking all over and believe it to be pretty straight forward, although I have a chance of catching a ride for the skid steer to go to town, 60 miles away, and pay big money for it being done by a professional.

    Thank you,

    Andreas
     
  10. Delmer

    Delmer Senior Member

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    It doesn't look too bad, you could get close enough to take a picture of it at least:D If it was mine, I'd at least try to turn it to cold and back to hot several times to see if you get any action out of it. You could try removing the actuator from the valve and freeing it up. Once you mess around a little, sounds like you'll be happy to get the new one and be done if you can.
     
  11. HighFlyerAK

    HighFlyerAK Well-Known Member

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    F29DABCE-AE83-441A-AB7A-79346AD03630.jpeg
     
  12. HighFlyerAK

    HighFlyerAK Well-Known Member

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    Nige,
    since I have the P/N328-3317, is it save to assume that getting P/N 480-8589 would be an upgrade, or just for a different model of machine?

    Thank you,
    Andreas
     
  13. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    Even if you ask your dealer for 328-3317 you will automatically be given 480-8589.
    328-3317 is now what's referred to as "cancelled & replaced by" 480-8589.
    328-3317 (& the even older P/N 266-2432) are used across a wide range of compact machine models. The same Part Number upgrade applies to all of them.

    See below.

    upload_2021-1-10_13-17-59.png
    upload_2021-1-10_13-18-49.png
     
  14. HighFlyerAK

    HighFlyerAK Well-Known Member

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    Thank you Nige!
    I can’t wait to hear what the part will cost, compared to the lower 48
     
  15. toomanymachines

    toomanymachines Well-Known Member

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    Something to also be aware of is the anti freeze strength. too week and it will turn to snow, and plug up in the fine heater core. Too strong and it gels up. also plugging up the fine ports of the heater core. I have had this happen more than once, on different vehicles. In Manitoba it is not unusual to get minus 35. I use a refractometer to test antifreeze strength. I usually try to get it around minus 40. but I am bad for pouring pure antifreeze into a system.. That is how I know it will also gel up. It usually does not bother the engine, as a radiator has larger holes through the rad as opposed to a heater core.
    I grew up in Saskatchewan and the coldest I experiences was minus 45.. but not a breath of wind. you could not talk outside without a scarf, as it was like you were at a dentist after some freezing.
     
  16. Simon C

    Simon C Well-Known Member

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    In answer to your question I dont know of any Sequence for the repair. I always start on any heating problem with a physical check of the rad with the cap off. Then I make sure if the machine has an in and out of coolant to the engine block shutoff valves that they are fully open. Turn the control to full heat and see if heat is coming to the heater core . On most you have to Raise the Cab Up to get under. On some you can put a 5/8 hose joiner on the hose to the heater core before the temperature valve and hook a small piece of hose to go to the heater inlet. This will bypass the heater valve tll you get a new one. First though see if the heater valve is just a little stuck and needing to be freed up. If heat starts pouring through after that plan for a new valve or leave bypassed for the winter. There is lots of choices. Hope that helps. Simon
     
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  17. HighFlyerAK

    HighFlyerAK Well-Known Member

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    Simon,
    I/we did think about bypassing the valve, it would have been definitely good for the winter that way.
    But the local CAT dealer happen to have the part and I might as well.
    I guess draining all the coolant is my biggest ‚question‘ - AND, we found that there is a coolant leak which is quite substantial, and we have not found yet, where it is!

    This is painful to keep the post up-to-date. I feel rather incompetent, instead of making head-way on this issue.
    But I am determined!

    Last thing to mention:

    I have learned that this machine had at some point a WEBASTO heater installed and it makes me wonder whether that has something to do with the cab heat not working at all.
    As a matter of fact, I have not until this winter, every even tried to use heat. So it makes me wonder how long...

    Again - Thank you!
     
  18. HighFlyerAK

    HighFlyerAK Well-Known Member

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    toomanymachines! We did refill the coolant and tested it to -45°F.
    What you wrote, fills in the questions my buddy and I just had when we casually chatted about the necessity of expensive CAT coolant versus non-brand, much cheaper.
     
  19. HighFlyerAK

    HighFlyerAK Well-Known Member

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    P/N 480-8589 ordered! USD$210.00
     
  20. Nige

    Nige Senior Member

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    TBH I’d use Cat premixed ELC or something like Peak Final Charge NOAT which is basically the same thing. You should be able to get the Peak product at any motor spares supply house.

    Make sure you get the “nitrited” product which is designed for off-highway equipment.
     
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