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Case 580c Front Left Kingpin - Needle Bearing

alrman

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
3,308
Location
QLD Australia
Occupation
Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
The idea of the cotter pin is to hold the king pin tight in the trunion. The welded washer is preventing the cotter pin from doing it's job. Over time you may cause undue wear in the trunion.
Better idea would have been to put some weld on the flat side of the cotter pin & grind some off till you got a snug fit holding the king pin in place.
 

MD_Tractor_85

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2022
Messages
69
Location
Maryland
Update: I took it apart again, removed 1 of the washers from below the knuckle, and that gave it enough space to at least get the snap ring back in place on the top.... However it had to be without the O-ring. Would have had to remove another washer to get the O-ring back in. I understand the importance of the o-ring, and my thoughts now are to try and search for a same diameter gasket, that is thinner than the O-ring, in hope that is serves the same purpose and allows for enough space to still get the snap ring back in place. (Either that or maybe remove some material from the disc-plate that has the zerk fitting screwed in the middle - remove a little bit from the top perimeter, to allow for the snap ring to go back in.

Admittingly, when I removed 1 washer, it allowed the upper needle bearing to drop back down a trigger - such that it is slightly visible.
The bottom line is - the machine is a 1979... this part and area has been worn a bit loose from being run without needle bearings for many years... And I think I am going to have to live with my fix and just hope it lasts for as long as possible. It would be painful for me if the fix doesn't hold up for long.. But I dont know what else to do.. I dont have the means to be welding on material and re-machining it back down to proper spec.

Same goes for the keeper pin. I welded that washer on...to the very outside...because if I didn't, then I could sit there and keep tightening the nut on the other end and it would just continue to pull the keeper pin all the way thru.
I understand it is not perfect. I am trying to picture your fix on that Alrman.. Are you suggesting welding some material onto the flat portion of the keeper pin itself ? And then grinding it back flat ?? Seems like it would be hard to make it such that it still gave a good flat surface -to- flat surface contact..
As is it at least keeps the king pin from spinning. But I am sure there is play.
 

MD_Tractor_85

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2022
Messages
69
Location
Maryland
1 more thing, meant to ask.. I saw on a separate thread the great solution someone came up with of mounting a dome on top of the yoke, above the zerk plate.. To prevent any water from collecting.
Do you think I could get away with just cleaning the tops and then applying some silicone ? And/or flex seal ?? Something that would essentially seal out any water...but still allow me to get back in when the time comes with a little force, etc.
Thoughts ? Thanks
 

alrman

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
3,308
Location
QLD Australia
Occupation
Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Re shaping the flat on the cotter pin - Grinders are useful tools.
A good thick bead of silicone around the top plate is a great idea to seal water getting into the upper bearing, instead of the oring, plus it will help stop the circlip rusting away.
 
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