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Case 580c Front Left Kingpin - Needle Bearing

MD_Tractor_85

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Jan 22, 2022
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69
Location
Maryland
Hi All, First time poster here. New and proud owner of a late 70's Case 580c (pretty sure it is 1979). I am giving it a little TLC, replacing the front tires, and when I raised the front end up to take the front wheels off - I noticed quite a bit of play on the left side. The play and gap is in between what appears to be the king pin and the axle (yoke ?) I am trying to figure out what parts I need to order to get this tightened up. Should I order a King Pin Replacement kit ? The bit of research I have done makes it look like it is missing a bearing (needle bearing ?) to take the play out.
Hoping the pictures below help identify the components.
And hoping someone here with more experience may be able to shed some light. I definitely appreciate this forum, and look forward to being a regular user.
Thank you in advance!
20220122_174510.jpg 20220122_174452.jpg
 

Coy Lancaster

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techdrawing-assembly-1D63B6E9-8EBF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6.png
Here's the diagram of the axle and king pin.
 

MD_Tractor_85

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Jan 22, 2022
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Location
Maryland
Hi, Thank you both, Coy & Tinkerer. I will order the kingpin kit.. and give it my best shot! Looks like I am going to have to buy a torch now! Tinkerer, thank you for the links to parts & manuals.

Coy, in that diagram you shared.. Do you think I also need part #11 ? (The thrust bearing). Are you able to tell based on the picture I shared ?
Thanks again
 
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Coy Lancaster

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Hi, Thank you both, Coy & Tinkerer. I will order the kingpin kit.. and give it my best shot! Looks like I am going to have to buy a torch now! Tinkerer, thank you for the links to parts & manuals.

Coy, in that diagram you shared.. Do you think I also need part #11 ? (The thrust bearing). Are you able to tell based on the picture I shared ?
Thanks again
The repair kit will have everything you need.
 

stinky64

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java center ny
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Don't know if you ordered parts yet, but I got mine from reliable aftermarket parts for my C and everything in the kit was good quality and fit right together, I've gotten several parts from them got here quick,no issues..The kit in question is D103156 and is still listed about $82...Sometimes if you search R.A.P. through the EBAY you will get free shipping on parts, they will be a couple of bucks more with free shipping, compare their regular site to ebay when ordering if that makes any sense...
 
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MD_Tractor_85

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Jan 22, 2022
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Location
Maryland
Awesome, thank you for the contact Stinky. I did already order from a different site (broken). But I will definitely check out R.A.P for future parts... As Im sure there will be much more!!! I plan on attempting the brakes in the next couple of months..
 

outlawspeeder

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Aug 23, 2020
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I don't want to hijack this tread, has anyone change the pivot mounts? I looking at changing mine...
 

alrman

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Re using needle roller (Torrington) bearings in the repair of a collapsed bearing - if the bore of the housing has been damaged in any way, the new bearing will not last very long at all.
Plus, the new bearings need to be a press fit in the machined bore.
 

MD_Tractor_85

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Jan 22, 2022
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Location
Maryland
Ok. I am hoping I am understanding your response correctly.. I do have brand new needle bearings (qty 2), as well as 1 new thrust bearing. I still have not pressed the old pin out... So I do not yet know if the bore has been damaged. I am hoping for the best. I also do not have a hydraulic press to use for putting the new bearings into the bore... I was hoping I could get by with a bearing set and some gentle hammering to get them into where they need to go.
 

Coytee

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May 30, 2015
Messages
207
Location
Knoxville, TN
I don't know the status of your Kingpin. I had a similar situation. I had the kingpin kit. I had a propane (think handheld for plumbing) torch..... was useless. Friend said I need a "Rosebud" and I had no idea what he meant.

(all this was 10 years ago)

Kingpin got worse and last year, I finally decided it's time to put a fight to fixing it.

Another friend (who's got a full fledged machine shop) brought his rosebud over, useless. I had wailed on the top of the pin to "drive" it out....DON"T DO THAT. I mushroomed it and created more issues.

I had cut the pin with my saw to get the steering knuckle out of the way (yes I had that much slop!)

Gave an idea to my machinest friend.... he fabricated a "triangle" and I bought a bottle jack. I think it was ??? do they make them 30 tons? It's a stout little booger.

We tried several configurations. Bent some steel. This pin was NOT going to come out easily. I had sprayed it for probably 2-3 months with oil to try to let it work its way in there.

Ultimately, he built this inverted "A" frame and we put the bottle jack in there. We had a huge amount of pressure on this and again, the pin wasn't budging. Then a lightbulb went off in my head.....I grabbed the sledge and didn't hit the pin but instead, hit the arm that holds it with all the pressure tensioned up in there. It gave way, moved about 1/2 an inch BUT the entire machine shook. There was a lot of stress going on.

Once it moved a little, I knew "we won" and now was a matter of being persistent. We finally got it out, I honed the bore and the new one barely, but simply slid right in. It had to be essentially perfectly aligned.

So, if you have any issues, this may or may not help you but your knuckle might be in the way. Hopefully you have it out and it "simply slid" right out.... Mine wasn't so agreeable.

Oh, and when we had all the pressure built up, it wanted to torque the assembly to the side. Just happened that I had a grade 100 chain so we wrapped things up with the chain and then attached the chain to the other side of the machine to keep the assembly vertical so the pressure would push up rather than out to the side.

This contraption was straight when we began.


Below was early attempt with some threaded rods. It was a major failure (useless attempt)

DSCN7876.JPG



The final attempt was with an all steel, inverted "A" frame to hold the jack in place.


DSCN7880.JPG


Some of the damage
DSCN7882.JPG


Maybe not clear is on the very top piece, there is a hole for the Kingpin to go through. We were pretty tickled for getting this done in my front yard! It really gave a fight. I think the machine is around 1987 time frame so it's had plenty of time to rust/sieze/lock itself in there.
 

stinky64

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java center ny
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When I did one of the kingpins on my 580C it was so seized an hour with a rosebud was futile, would not budge with a BFH..wound up cutting the king pin on the top and bottom of the spindle to remove, I was afraid I was going to damage or bend something with that much heat,(lucky for you the top bearing is gone so you have the same option if needed) I took the spindle to work and once again proceeded with the rosebud and a very large press, still no luck..Wound up burning the center out of the kingpin,ever so slowly so as to not smoke the tip on the torch then put it in the same press and it pushed out pretty easy, just something to think about if you get jammed up...
 

MD_Tractor_85

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Jan 22, 2022
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69
Location
Maryland
Wow, Coytee... Thank you for the very elaborate response. It is a bit intimidating to know what I might be up against.. I haven't had a chance to go after it yet (still lining up the torch components), but I will update with pictures when I do finally go after it.
The only things I have done so far are:
- Removed the bottom snap ring, zerk fitting, and bottom plate which the zerk fitting screws into.
- Tapped out the 'set pin', cleaned up the entire area with brush, and sprayed some lubricating oil in hopes of it working into a few fractions of a millimeter...

I did give it a few whacks with a 4lb hammer, but I used a spare old king pin as a 'punch' in between the lodged kingpin and hammer head... in hopes of avoiding the mushroom effect. However I am not going to hammer anymore.. Sounds like it has potential to do more harm than good.

The most discouraging things I just read from your posts (& Stinkys post), is that the heat didnt really help....?? At this point, I am kinda counting on the heat. I was planning to rig up a similar bottle jack setup, put the hyrdraulic pressure on it from the bottle jack.. And then apply and distribute some torch heat to it and hope it budges.

Now another serious question has been raised: Do I try to force the pin out downward ... Toward the ground ? Or upward ? (I was planning on attempting all of this without taking the front axle off. Just bracing &/or chaining wherever I need to in order to keep things in place when I go to town on it.
 

MD_Tractor_85

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Jan 22, 2022
Messages
69
Location
Maryland
I have developed a few more questions about how to properly install the new king pin kit... If anyone knows the answers please share:
1.) The Needle Bearings have one rounded end, and one flat end. Does it matter which end goes in first ? I.e. in the diagram shared earlier by Coy, part #8... Taking the lower needle bearing for example. Would that be installed flat end up or flat end down ?
2.) Does the Front Axle Spindle Bearing (Part #11 on diagram) go above the spindle arm or below the spindle arm when reinstalled ? In the diagram they show it hovering above... Just want to confirm.
3.) The kit also came with Qty 3 large washers.. Looks like part #12 on the diagram. (So these are also known as 'race bearings'..?) It shows where one goes on the diagram. Where do the other 2 go ? I would guess one on each side of the spindle bearing, but I hate to guess...
Appreciate any feedback and direction anyone has on this. Thank you.
 
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