willie59
Administrator
Would this be the motor your working on?
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Case 40 XT Newb with lots of Questions
- Thread starter rpctsv
- Start date
I don't know,I have been looking for an exploded view before I pull it.The case web site is doing some weird stuff,I found my model and looked at some dia's,now it won't let me in.I will try to go into my history to pull back up the pages.
willie59
Administrator
Hmmm, the diagram I just displayed came from the Case website. That's wierd. :beatsme
willie59
Administrator
Here's a pic of the same motor I posted above assembled. Just now got it from the Case website.
alrman
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2009
- Messages
- 3,308
- Location
- QLD Australia
- Occupation
- Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
This repair is not recommended by some professionals. But in the instance of a machine that will be only rarely used - this is what I've done to fix this problem in the past without costing a huge amount of $$.
Remove the drive motor from machine ; do not fully strip the motor - you can remove the seal retainer from the front of the motor ; remove the seal & oring from the retainer ; refit the retainer & measure the amount of clearance between it & the circlip groove ; remove the retainer & build up the outer flange(next to circlip) with bronze & machine it off to according to your measurement.
This will stop the shaft end float.
You will have to buy a new seal & viton oring from a hydraulic supply company. These are not able to be purchased individually from Case - they only supply full kits.
You could replace bearings (2 x tapered)..... but they are held on to the shaft with a huge type of circlip with rounded ends & no holes.... very difficult to deal with!
The condition of the bearings will control how long this repair will last.
Some I've repaired like this are still going after 18mths.
As I said some people may not agree with this - but if you dont want to spend thousands & are only using the machine a few hrs here & there - it does work.
If the bearings do start to fail down the track - it only allows oil to leak past the shaft seal again, it does not affect the hydostatic parts of the motor or pumps.
Remove the drive motor from machine ; do not fully strip the motor - you can remove the seal retainer from the front of the motor ; remove the seal & oring from the retainer ; refit the retainer & measure the amount of clearance between it & the circlip groove ; remove the retainer & build up the outer flange(next to circlip) with bronze & machine it off to according to your measurement.
This will stop the shaft end float.
You will have to buy a new seal & viton oring from a hydraulic supply company. These are not able to be purchased individually from Case - they only supply full kits.
You could replace bearings (2 x tapered)..... but they are held on to the shaft with a huge type of circlip with rounded ends & no holes.... very difficult to deal with!
The condition of the bearings will control how long this repair will last.
Some I've repaired like this are still going after 18mths.
As I said some people may not agree with this - but if you dont want to spend thousands & are only using the machine a few hrs here & there - it does work.
If the bearings do start to fail down the track - it only allows oil to leak past the shaft seal again, it does not affect the hydostatic parts of the motor or pumps.
Awesome!!!!!!!!!This is what i've wanted to hear!I drained 11 gallons of oil out of the chain reservoir today,tomorrow the pump will be out.She was full!On a good note,the chains and sprockets look new,I can't believe how good they look!I guess the only way to get the chains off is by bringing the axles in?Not a single master link,I think i'm in virgin territory on this toy!
Thanks to everybody so far!This is my first skid and i'm finding out there is a learning curve.
Thanks to everybody so far!This is my first skid and i'm finding out there is a learning curve.
Motor is out and have taken a look.In pic 1 you can see how the bearing spacer is wearing unevenly,it is getting cocked to one side under load I presume.In pic 2 you can see where the shaft is wearing the top of the gasket causing the gusher of oil into the chain drive resevoir.
Is this the spacer you spoke of Goose?
I presume this spacer preloads the tapered bearings,if so I can deal with this.Maybe a little tungsten tig rod after a preheat and a grind job after I have determined the thickness.
The clip is no problem we have a tool,the bearings look great as do the chains and sprockets!!!!!!
The wasted gasket,this will be found,if I can't I will turn out some of the land and make it nominal ,not special metric crap?
Over all this motor is still ****!A total pain in the ass to get out!!As I see it,the spacer is letting the shaft deflect enough to take the seal out.Not really to much to these things as I see it,I could never justify throwing it out for these fixable issues.
OH,almost forgot,the seal journal looks great as does the I.D. of the pump housing.All have been measured and are within .005.
I'll take some pics of the fix if anyone gives a $hit.
Is this the spacer you spoke of Goose?
I presume this spacer preloads the tapered bearings,if so I can deal with this.Maybe a little tungsten tig rod after a preheat and a grind job after I have determined the thickness.
The clip is no problem we have a tool,the bearings look great as do the chains and sprockets!!!!!!
The wasted gasket,this will be found,if I can't I will turn out some of the land and make it nominal ,not special metric crap?
Over all this motor is still ****!A total pain in the ass to get out!!As I see it,the spacer is letting the shaft deflect enough to take the seal out.Not really to much to these things as I see it,I could never justify throwing it out for these fixable issues.
OH,almost forgot,the seal journal looks great as does the I.D. of the pump housing.All have been measured and are within .005.
I'll take some pics of the fix if anyone gives a $hit.
Attachments
willie59
Administrator
Thrills
Member
I just aquired a Thomas 1700A. I downloaded the shop repair manual and the shop parts manual right from thier web-site... VERY nice!
I looked at CASE but could only find the parts manual:
https://webparts.pvassociates.net/cnh/webparts/main.php
Good Luck!
I looked at CASE but could only find the parts manual:
https://webparts.pvassociates.net/cnh/webparts/main.php
Good Luck!
Thrills
Member
I guess I don't have enough posts to edit yet, but if you follow the link above, you just have to type in "40XT" in the search bar...
I just bought a parts manual off ebay for 87 bucks saturday.I'ts easier for me to have it in hand,not just on my computer.Sadly,i have not located a service manual yet.I will have questions when it's time to go back together with bleeding hyd system and such.Right now my loader has more oil and dirt in the bottom than you could ever imagine.
thanks for the input so far guys.
thanks for the input so far guys.
dirt worx
Member
I'm about to buy a 40XT from pictures only. Is the VIN # adequate to find out the generation of the drive motor? The machine is an '03 with 700hrs and looks really clean. Even if the drive motor is doomed for failure, with only 700hrs, is it too late to install the Case cartridge kit? I'm hoping no, if it's not leaking yet.
Also, anyone know what the little grey metal box is that's mounted on the floor between the operators feet?
I wouldn't worry about the drive motors they are repairable.I ended up replacing the wasted spacer with a bearing race.Had to turn out some meat out of the ID but no problems since.My machine is great and hits hard.Grey box?Huh?Is it your aux switch?I just have a rocker switch in the middle for my aux.Is it hinged?
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dirt worx
Member
The box is about 8" X 8" X 8". Maybe it's a cab heater. The machine has side windows and what appears to be hinges on the pillar for a door, however the machine is not advertized with cab heat. Guess I'll find out tomorrow when the dealer open's.
Sounds like someone added an aftermarket heater.
melben
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2008
- Messages
- 1,029
- Location
- Williamsport, Pa
- Occupation
- Retired 50 Yrs with Case dealership
Pull the motor out and take the big snap ring out and pull the shaft and bearing assy, you will see the problem, the large spacer between the bearings has worn and allowed the bearings to move closer and destroyed the preload that keeps the shaft on center. A good hardened spacer made to the dimensions that will re-establish bearing preload should repair that motor. Parts to reseal it should be available. We in the business cannot do that as if it comes back it's our baby thats why others have told you to replace them, but they are well over $1000 the last I installed, but if I were an individual I'd consider a fix if I had the equipment and materials to do it.If you are success ful with one I'd do both while you've got the tandem pumps out Look and decide what you want to do. As others have said, turn and walk , no run, away from the 1835C either gas or diesel. If you decide to repair keep uis posted. Ps, when removing hoses and reinstalling you MUST be absolutely clean, One speck of sand in the closed loop system will cause thousands of dollars damage and that is no exaggeration. Once the dirt is in the closed loop it just continues to circulate creating more debris which just continues to circulate-------------etc till you have junk. clean the belly pans as good as you can before disassembly. Mel
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dirt worx
Member
Correct, it's an aftermarket heater. I don't think it works, that's just another thing to fix:Banghead. Thanks for the helpful easyfix tips Mel and all.
buckwheat_la
Active Member
A bump to the top for this, does anyone have the cross reference for the drive motor to get it from a hydraulic shop? checked with Case here, and they charge that drive motor out at $2500. I am wondering if I can get a motor number so I can walk into Motion and see about them ordering it.