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Bobcat T190 new cylinder head but wont start

Discussion in 'Compact Track/Multi Terrain Loaders' started by nepondguy, Oct 20, 2016.

  1. Ronsii

    Ronsii Senior Member

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    It works best if all the valves are closed and in the same place when you are tying to find out where the shop air is going... hence the reason for pulling the pushrods.
     
  2. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    Ahhh ok that makes sense. Thanks. I will try and find some time tomorrow to do that.
     
  3. lantraxco

    lantraxco Senior Member

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    Keep hands out of the way of fan, belts, pulleys, etc., as when you apply air to each cylinder the piston will find BDC in what may be an abrupt fashion. Been there done did that, lol
     
  4. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    LAN to the rescue AGAIN.!! How many of US has THAT happened too.?? and WE forgot to mention that..
    THAT WHY.. LAN is the best.!!!:notworthy
    Probably saved a finger or two Lan.. or at the very least, a spilled beer.. Lol
     
  5. lantraxco

    lantraxco Senior Member

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    Aw shucks, lol :cool2
     
  6. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    I did the air test today. I pushed air through the glow plug hole and the air was coming right out the exhaust! Numbers 1 and 4 were super tight and the middle ones the air was rushing right out the exhaust. So it would appear that I received a bad head? I have it pulled right now. A buddy suggested spraying wd-40 into the exhaust ports and seeing if it leaked out the valves. One of them did for sure the other it wasn't noticeable as much. Those two were thick full of carbon sludge so I am thinking that mixed with the wd-40 may have "sealed" it enough to not see it dripping out. Looks like I will be calling the company i got the head from tomorrow and making a complaint!
     
  7. Delmer

    Delmer Senior Member

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    Huh? Don't forget, adding the oil reduced the combustion chamber space which will raise the compression pressure even if there was no leakage by the rings on the first test without oil. Sounds like you might have this figured out easier than a new engine.
     
  8. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    That's odd.. 2&3 is where the ORIGINAL problem started.. cracked head.
    You don't suppose they rebuilt your original head and sent it back to you w/ a cracked head.??
    Unless, that's a common problem w/ those Kubota heads and they just missed it on their stock rebuild..
    I feel for ya pondguy..
    IF it is indeed their problem, I would ask for a discount or free shipping.. something to take the sting out..
    Good luck..
     
  9. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    They didn't rebuild my head as it was supposed to be new. I just checked on it and I can see the WD-40 has leaked out around those two valves. Does seem like a coincidence that those were the original two problem cylinders. Hopefully they step up and help.
     
  10. Hobbytime

    Hobbytime Senior Member

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    I dont know for fact, but if its a common problem then you got someone elses overheated head they rebuilt and sent out to you, if you were going to buy brand new head, that should be from a dealer, not a rebuilder..
     
  11. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    Figured I would give an update here. I finally got a new head sent to me under warranty. The first one was definitely bad. After spraying wd-40 in the exhaust ports you could see it leaking out the valves. I got the new one bolted on and figured I would do the air test before I got too far along. Well wouldn't you know numbers 2 and 3 still wouldn't hold air and you could feel it escaping from the push rod holes. So off the head came again! I then decided I would pour some mystery oil into each cylinder to see if it holds and 2 and 3 drained out in under an hour. So clearly the rings are shot. I believe I owe someone a 6 pack on that! Lol The cylinders really appear to be in good shape so I am leaning towards a rebuild rather than a replacement. Any tips or tricks on pulling the engine?
     
  12. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    If its possible, pull the machine up on a couple of RR ties. That little bit of UP makes a world of difference.
    MAKE SURE you have enough head room to pull the engine.. A good chain hoist on a trolley. cuz you have to lift AND swing it, out of the way of the machine.
    A fork lift will work w/a good operator and a 2nd pair of eyes.
    OLD clothes and lots of rubber gloves.. and don't forget the pressure washer and OIL DRY.. that thing is gonna be dirty.
    Good luck and stay warm..
     
  13. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    Can I pull just the engine or does the hydro pump have to come with it?
     
  14. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone here pulled just the engine on a bobcat and not the engine and pump? It looks like I can remove the flywheel and then a few bolts from the plate and it will come right out. I just don't know if I am asking for trouble. The machine is in my garage so I can't raise the can to get at all of the hydraulic lines.