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Bobcat T190 new cylinder head but wont start

Discussion in 'Compact Track/Multi Terrain Loaders' started by nepondguy, Oct 20, 2016.

  1. lantraxco

    lantraxco Senior Member

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    I'll still put a six pack on collapsed or stuck rings from the overheat. Let us know what the compression test shows....
     
  2. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    I really couldn't see where the pump could have gotten damaged from overheating the engine.
    and even if you had loosened the outlets on the pump, the worse thing to happen, was a leak..
    A compr. test is definatly in order here.
    If you don't have the tools, the pump shop might loan them to you.. OR make you an adaptor.. just a thought..
     
  3. Hobbytime

    Hobbytime Senior Member

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    whenever I tested compression and it was low, an easy trick to determine if it was bad valves or the rings was to squirt some heavy weight oil in the low cylinder,if the compression went up, bad rings( the heavy weight oil temporary seals the rings alittle) if nothing then the valves..not full proof but gives more info to go on..
     
  4. f311fr1

    f311fr1 Senior Member

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    I will keep an eye on mine
     
  5. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks everyone. I am trying to track down a compression testing tool to see what it says. I will keep everyone posted.
     
  6. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    Ok i just did the compression test. Both numbers 1 and 4 cylinders tested out perfect. 2 and 3 were very low (under 150). Those are the cylinders where the cracks were on the head. So it would seem that is my issue. Do i need an entire engine rebuild? Is there anything I can do to try and fix this easily?
     
  7. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    The short answer is>> NO, no easy fix.
    The engine has to come out. and its easier to get a reman..
    Those engines are known to be disposable..
    Bolt the OLD HEAD back on and get a reman engine.
    By the time you tear it down, or pay someone to do it.. get it to the machine shop to check the block for cracks, order the parts and rebuild it..
    your into reman money..
    I'm sure you can recoupe your money for the new head.. if advertised with the back story..
     
  8. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    So just to add a little more information.... I poured some oil into the weak cylinders and it increased the compression by 30-50 psi so it would seem that the rings are shot. Looks like I will be pulling the engine! yeah:mad:
     
  9. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    Does anybody sell a shortblock that I could use the new head on?
     
  10. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    ONLY 30-50?? Its been my experience that when doing the oil test, the pressure jumps by ATLEAST 100.. IF its rings.
    You might want to revisit the valve adjustment..
    if a valve is hanging up and not closing when it should, compression will escape giving you a false reading.
    Remember, you want to get enough oil in the cyl. to cover the top of the piston and have the oil fall off the sides to create an oil seal.. then test. quickly.
    BTW> what are you calling "perfect" pressure on the other 2 cylinders.? over 300psi??
     
  11. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    You will HAVE TO get the engine #'s off your current engine to find a replacement.. get ALL the #'s from the tag..
    They come w/ different hp ratings with turbo and non turbo versions..
     
  12. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    I get mine from EPS in SC.. Engine Power Source..
    They build to suit.. and keep a good stock.. VERY SLOW on delivery, nothing is delivered on time..
    Lost orders.. on and on.. BUT.. I HAVE NEVER had to touch or remove an engine they had done..
    Quality of work is excellent but lacking in other departments..
    Might take you 3 or 4 calls.. 1 to order, 2 to confirm, 3 & 4 to find the dam thing.. only to find they had misplaced the original order.. lol
     
  13. Hobbytime

    Hobbytime Senior Member

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    with the engine being overheated, the block could be warped and loosing compression between the head and block, the gasket wont seal that up, new engine in order, or if you want to go for a short block and start messing with it..
     
  14. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    The readings on number 1 and 4 were 440psi which is right at the upper end of spec.
     
  15. thepumpguysc

    thepumpguysc Senior Member

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    I would definatly say, that's perfect..
    it sux about the other 2 tho..
     
  16. Mobiltech

    Mobiltech Senior Member

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    Something to try yet would be to remove the rocker arms or pushrods and then put shop air pressure into each cylinder one at a time and see where it comes out. If the heads gasket is not sealing between 2 and 3. The air you put the in 2 will come out number 3 glow plug hole or injector whichever you removed to do compression test. If it comes out the intake or exhaust then the new head is no good.
     
  17. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    I will have to give that a shot. Might help to make a final determination
     
  18. Delmer

    Delmer Senior Member

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    And if no air comes out of the intake, exhaust, or the other cylinder, then check the crankcase breather.

    If the outside two cylinders are that perfect, I'd be tempted to pull the middle two pistons and check the rings. That probably means pulling the engine though, right?
     
  19. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    After doing the air test I think I will pull the head off again. Once I have it off is there a way to determine for sure if it's the rings or not? I assume I need a real good straight edge to check for a warped block?
     
  20. nepondguy

    nepondguy Well-Known Member

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    Could you walk me through this a bit further? Couldn't I rotate the engine until the valves are both closed on say #2 and blow air in through the glow plug hole and see if it escapes somewhere?