1998 cat D5M price

[Nige]

Can someone explain what might be causing this leak and how it would be fixed. It looks like a idler but personally I really don’t know. Thanks

It's Section A-A in the illustration. The cover/retainer #31 for the Track Adjuster & Recoil Group.
First thing would be to clean around it and check for loose bolts. There is no gasket or seal behind that cover. I suggest to NOT attempt to completely remove the cover without first releasing the track tensioner just to be on the safe side.

 

[Bluox]

Can someone explain what might be causing this leak and how it would be fixed. It looks like a idler but personally I really don’t know. Thanks

That cap is a key for the idler slide ,it keeps the idler from rotating.
the oil is from the adjuster housing if you pull the key about a gallon of oil will drain out.
There is another one on the inside of the track frame.
If it leaks bad enough, you can pull the key buy removing the 6 bolts and clean the puller holes out using 2 bolts in the puller holes.
Any kind of sealer will work.
You don't have to release the track tensioner.
Bob

 

[Rickyb1968]

Bluox so remove the six bolts, you are losing me on cleaning the puller holes out with 2 bolts. Can you elaborate on this process please. Also Nige is saying no gasket or sealer there so what keeps it from leaking? You also recommend I put a sealer on it to keep from leaking. Also where do you add the oil back in?

Nige I have no way to look at a cd. I have my phone and iPad so I really need a hard copy. The numbers you posted are correct for a hard copy manual?

 

[Nige]

Nige I have no way to look at a cd. I have my phone and iPad so I really need a hard copy. The numbers you posted are correct for a hard copy manual?

Yes they are. The document reference number does not change whatever the format of the manual is. Personally I would call the local dealer branch first and ask for the price.

Also Nige is saying no gasket or sealer there so what keeps it from leaking?

The cap/key #31 is an extremely snug fit in the bore in the track frame.
If everything is in good shape it should not leak (they normally don't), that's why no gasket or sealer is listed for that joint. You can use whatever sealant you like if cleaning and then reassembly with the bolts correctly tightened does not fix the leak. My initial suggestion was to basically clean all the dirt off around the cap, put a wrench on the bolts and check if they are tight or not..........

 

[Rickyb1968]

Thanks Nige I really appreciate the help. Also thanks for explaining the cap/key #31 for me. I defiantly understood to clean and check bolt tightness. I am the type of person that has to understand how to do something before I do it. I guess its all about confidence and like I said I have no experience with a dozer. Thats going be the first thing I do is power wash the UC, check that cap/key out and change the oil. Also thinking of dropping the belly pans and cleaning out all the dirt. I will call the dealer in the morning for the price.

 

[JPV]

Those track frames will crack around those caps so look for that also, I suspect that's what is going on there. We have repaired several of ours. It is a pain because to get a good weld you have to get the oil below the level of the crack and there is no good way to drain it. I have an electric pump for oil, that works pretty good unless it is cold. I have also pulled the track frame off and laid it on its side to weld it because I was taking it off anyway to replace the seal on the pivot shaft and equalizer bar ends. You take the cover with 4 bolts off between the top roller and sprocket to adjust the tracks and to add oil, there is a line that you fill to. I don't remember off the top of my head what they take but I think it is 30 weight.

 

[bigbudsr67]

On your maintenance I would only use Cat filters and I think Nige would agree, as for lube I use Chevron for my 5M. They have it right on the 5 Gallon bucket cat cross reference . The pivot shaft and recoil take 50wt.When you get that maintenance book it will show you the lubes and amounts.

 

[Nige]

Follow JPV's suggestion and look for cracks around the bore where the cap/key fits into the track frame before thinking about changing the oil. Try removing the 4-bolt cover just above and behind #31. This is where the track tensioner is located.
If you can suck some oil out from that hole using a hose you can lower the level enough so that no oil drains out when the cap is removed. That oil is generally clean and does not degrade too much, so if you wanted to re-use it all it needs is to take appropriate precautions when sucking it out. Especially true if you find a crack when the cap is removed.

On your maintenance I would only use Cat filters and I think Nige would agree,

Personally I have confidence in Donaldson filters in addition to OEM. Fleetguard I would definitely not recommend based on experience. Other brands apart from those two - dunno.

Lubricants - anything branded from a major oil company that meets the relevant Cat spec for the compartment.
This means nothing where the words "universal, tractor, or farm" appear anywhere either in the name of the product or of the store selling it.

Often Cat dealers do promotions on Cat oil & filters that makes them very competitive price-wise with other sources. I would always suggest to check dealer prices first to use as a comparison with other sources when buying oil & filters.

 

[skyking1]

Very nice machine! It is interesting that it has sweeps and screens, but no winch.
You have excellent advice above about not using it to horse out big things like stumps or big rocks. It appears you have an excavator for that. They are truly a production finish grade dozer. I worked on the Air Force base nearby with one back when they were new, and after a little practice you can lay down some really fine grade in second with fine materials. It would be a shame to rattle it all out trying to do big horsing like rocks and stumps.
If you do find yourself in big rock, it might pay to try and find the ripper assembly for it.
This benefits in two ways, it'll save the dozer blade and you a bunch of beating, and this model in particular really likes the extra weight on the back end when doing finish work. I had a chance to work one with and one without. The one without tended to do a little more diving in finish gravel.

 

[Rickyb1968]

Thanks for the comments and advice. I’m hoping not to find any cracks but definitely understand that could be going on. If I do find cracks I can pull oil out to have those cracks welded up. We had some big storms move thru Arkansas today so delivery got postponed till tomorrow. Was on the phone with cat dealership getting price of book when power to house went out. We have Wi-Fi phone so when Wi-Fi goes the phones do also. Got power back on about 30 minutes ago. Definitely have no plans to tackle any big trees, big stumps or big rocks. I’m needing it to maintain old roads and clear light brush. I also would like to dig a pond with it and excavator.

 

[Bluox]

Bluox so remove the six bolts, you are losing me on cleaning the puller holes out with 2 bolts. Can you elaborate on this process please. Also Nige is saying no gasket or sealer there so what keeps it from leaking? You also recommend I put a sealer on it to keep from leaking. Also where do you add the oil back in?

Nige I have no way to look at a cd. I have my phone and iPad so I really need a hard copy. The numbers you posted are correct for a hard copy manual?

If you look at the key cap there are 2 threaded holes in it, clean the threads out and use 2 bolts to back the cap out.
You don't have to pull it all the way out just enough to put some sealer in there, if it is leaking.
there is usually a o-ring on it but sealer will work.
The recoil housing is filled with 30 wt. oil.
Bob

 

[DozerPlowBoy]

I put a Vail 5 pocket parallel ripper on mine. Wouldn't want to be without it. The weight distribution is perfect and if you dig a pond it will save you more $ than what you'll ever have in it!

 

[Rickyb1968]

Thanks for the advice guys. Received dozer late last night. Well pump went out and I spent most of the day dealing with it. Got to run the dozer for a few minutes before my extended family starting showing up to celebrate Easter. We start on Good Friday. Anyway like I mentioned previous I’m very new to dozers. It’s going take time learning the pedals on floor. Seemed like the big one on left increased rpm when I pushed it. Little pedal on right decreases rpm’s when pushed. My machine doesn’t have the finger tip controls on left. It has two levers for tracks and has 1,2,3 for forward and reverse gears. Is it ok to move shifter to 3 while moving? Should I push in on deceleration pedal to shift gears. Really need to locate manual for operating and maintenance. Thanks Ricky

 

[skyking1]

the right pedal is the decelerator. you can upshift on the go, be careful with downshifting as that can bang things pretty hard.
Always come to a complete stop before changing direction.

 

[Rickyb1968]

Ok raining here but I drove dozer from pit to my shop where I’m going to power wash it. My deceleration pedal has a black rubber tarp strap to bring it back up. I’m thinking there is probably a spring that should be there can someone verify that? Also my diesel cap is missing the black vent which I can’t seem to find by itself. I see the caps for sale with vent but not vent itself. Am I going have to go thru cat dealership to get these parts?

Nige I ordered my Operating and Maintenance book.

 

[skyking1]

yes on the spring and yes on the fuel cap, get both from Cat unless you find them somewhere else.

 

[Nige]

lso my diesel cap is missing the black vent which I can’t seem to find by itself.

The black vent is part of the cap unfortunately. Cat P/N 7X-7700 for the complete assembly. They're available all over the place for about $25.

My deceleration pedal has a black rubber tarp strap to bring it back up. I’m thinking there is probably a spring that should be there can someone verify that?

Have a look up behind the pedals, or remove the 4-screw cover in between the brake & decelerator pedals. There should be a spring there that returns the declerator pedal. You'll probably find it in 2 pieces.

 

[Rickyb1968]

I only see one spring and it’s still intack. The only time I see that big spring move is when I push throttle all the way up and it moves a little. I am hoping there is another spring that holds the deceleration pedal up. Mine will not stay.

 

[Nige]

If you disconnect the linkage from the decel pedal to the engine does the pedal come back on its own then.?
If it does then the linkage is probably in need of lubrication somewhere.

 

[Rickyb1968]

Nige I sent you a PM