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Transmission for 1986 S1954 IH

DMiller

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OK, gotta ask, does the motor shift sitting still? Can you jack one wheel(Motor Side) of the rear end and roll the wheels while the wife shifts the 2 spd? The shift motor drives a spool that engages a sun gear and a locking spline at the two shift aspects, to make the two speed on axles. If it just ratchets the spool is too far rounded to stay engaged the rear end HAS to come out.
 

Spud_Monkey

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OK, gotta ask, does the motor shift sitting still? Can you jack one wheel(Motor Side) of the rear end and roll the wheels while the wife shifts the 2 spd? The shift motor drives a spool that engages a sun gear and a locking spline at the two shift aspects, to make the two speed on axles. If it just ratchets the spool is too far rounded to stay engaged the rear end HAS to come out.
I will get back with that result soon as we get somewhere where there isn't snow, ice or blowing gale winds of snow and ice :eek: Though if that has to come out I'm digging for another axle, this 4:89 ratio is too low and the pinion seal is leaking.
Typing this as I'm bottle feeding it two quarts of oil
 

Spud_Monkey

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Tomorrow Dmiller I will lift the truck/semi/rig up to see why the gears aren't splitting with your advice, I have arrived at my destination in Beaumont TX and now the fun begins.. Anywho as most know this rig and the question remains to be answered, what is this thing called, is it a truck or a semi and why is it considered a semi or truck? It's a class 7 truck according to the GVW rating of 28,000 lbs, has wheels of such, the gearing of such, and engine of such. So which is it a semi or truck, cause I'm going round and round with my folks on explaining it's basically a semi. I can add a 5th wheel hitch if it makes the difference, but as I see it, its fuqing semi:mad:
 

RZucker

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Just sayin' here, I had a Ford Louisville with an Eaton shift motor on the rear axle and after 2 months of trying to get a split shift I figured out it was a locker for the diff, not a 2 speed. Boy did I feel dumb. The switch knob was way down on the shift lever.
 

DMiller

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Unless mount a fifth wheel on it you have a Straight Truck, even with a Full Trailer it is still a straight truck combination rig. Semi refers to Semi Tractor/Trailer combination. A Semi Trailer is one without a front axle, a Full trailer can be joe dog equipped or have a permanently attached dolly. If the DOT boys wanted to start problems every Goose Neck out there is a Semi Trailer.
 

Spud_Monkey

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Unless mount a fifth wheel on it you have a Straight Truck, even with a Full Trailer it is still a straight truck combination rig. Semi refers to Semi Tractor/Trailer combination. A Semi Trailer is one without a front axle, a Full trailer can be joe dog equipped or have a permanently attached dolly. If the DOT boys wanted to start problems every Goose Neck out there is a Semi Trailer.
Well I got a 5th wheel plate in storage that can be mounted, but I get what you mean. So that settles that argument which means, if I bought a semi and took 5th wheel plate off then it would be considered a straight truck.
 

Spud_Monkey

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Splurged a little or I should say I bought some needed front leaf springs for my S1900. First called up International that proclaimed the rig belonged in Smithsonian museum and got the part numbers, ran measurements across with what Vanderhaags had in same dimensions on same make model and found some. Though I upped the leaf spring count from 6 springs to 9 cause I'm currently 1,400 lbs over my 9,000 lb limit on my front axle. Also I am only 2 inches away from the frame on the drivers side leaf spring frame and I can feel every 10 bridges bottom my side out traveling across the US, that wasn't fun.
Same price for the 9 spring ones as the 7 spring ones and they didn't have anything listed as 6 springs nor did anyone, only new ones from International. Now for the million dollar question, where can I find some new U bolts for these damn things or is this going to be a International part number or can I get run of the mill ones from anywhere?
 

DMiller

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Any regular Spring shop can make U-bolts for this, will need bolt dia., a pack thickness plus axle drill thickness plus any spacer thicknesses as well the length of thread one wishes as well width and whether Semi Round or square top then they will form them to the numbers. I get mine thru St. Louis Spring, should be a Spring maker near to where you are at.
 

DMiller

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Did a Google on Beaumont, try City Spring 798 College as to what they can do or who recommend.

City Spring & Brake Services
4.2 (17) · Brake shop
Beaumont, TX
(409) 833-5695
 

Spud_Monkey

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Did a Google on Beaumont, try City Spring 798 College as to what they can do or who recommend.

City Spring & Brake Services
4.2 (17) · Brake shop
Beaumont, TX
(409) 833-5695
Thanks I will call them Monday though I found the reason the axle isn't splitting.
Seems it's eating fuses for dessert after a few seconds of splitting the switch. Basically flip the switch and by time I get to back to hear anything I hear it blows. Brand new axle splitter the whole motor and unit, it isn't the wire cause I disconnected the wire from the motor and doesn't blow. My thought process is, is either A the new motor is fried or B everything is seized up it just blows the fuse instead of moving anything. Tried the spinning of the wheel while wife flipping the switched and it just blew a fuse within 5 seconds. I'm betting on B due to fact I got the motor to switch before I installed it to see if it worked. So back to drawing board.......:mad:
 

RZucker

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Thanks I will call them Monday though I found the reason the axle isn't splitting.
Seems it's eating fuses for dessert after a few seconds of splitting the switch. Basically flip the switch and by time I get to back to hear anything I hear it blows. Brand new axle splitter the whole motor and unit, it isn't the wire cause I disconnected the wire from the motor and doesn't blow. My thought process is, is either A the new motor is fried or B everything is seized up it just blows the fuse instead of moving anything. Tried the spinning of the wheel while wife flipping the switched and it just blew a fuse within 5 seconds. I'm betting on B due to fact I got the motor to switch before I installed it to see if it worked. So back to drawing board.......:mad:

Could definitely be a bad motor. I put a new wiper motor in a Case loader last week that was dead right out of the box. Take your motor off the housing and see if the fork will shift manually with a wheel jacked up. It shouldn't take much force.
 

Spud_Monkey

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Could definitely be a bad motor. I put a new wiper motor in a Case loader last week that was dead right out of the box. Take your motor off the housing and see if the fork will shift manually with a wheel jacked up. It shouldn't take much force.
It worked before I installed it, though I plan on doing that with the wheel jacked up tomorrow. See if I can get it to split and if it angers me I'm taking the 4 lb maul to it make it my b!tch to split.
 

DMiller

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These shifter drives are designed to shift all the way even if fork doesn’t.
Then as pressure relieves on the spool shift the axle.
Will not be bound in the diff causing it
Check your wiring around area it has to take deflection off frame to two speed. Also around any crossmembers that may have broken loose.
 

Labparamour

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Also, if it really has a fuses...might want to change to breaker.
My Ford was factory with 20A thermal breaker to the 2spd.
Hope you find out it’s just a pinched wire and not something spendy.
 

Spud_Monkey

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These shifter drives are designed to shift all the way even if fork doesn’t.
Then as pressure relieves on the spool shift the axle.
Will not be bound in the diff causing it
Check your wiring around area it has to take deflection off frame to two speed. Also around any crossmembers that may have broken loose.

Also, if it really has a fuses...might want to change to breaker.
My Ford was factory with 20A thermal breaker to the 2spd.
Hope you find out it’s just a pinched wire and not something spendy.
I’ve unplugged the motor and flipped the switch both ways last night and the fuse never blew so it’s how I know it’s not the wiring plus the meter never zeroed out across the wires either. Frame is all fine, I’m going to hard wire it and see what happens, if functions right I will switch to breaker.
 

Spud_Monkey

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Guess I better retract my last statement, seems to be a pulsing of at least one volt from what my meter can catch since it's fast going through the high and low wires. Put meter on ohms and got a reading between the power supply wire and one of the wires that was supposed to go to high or low wire after I unplugged the switch. I took the motor off and it shifts fine when I hard lined in, took and moved the fork no problem on the axle and even hooked up a fuse inline with the motor off it didn't blow a fuse. Lastly what points to bad wiring is when I took the motor off the axle and split it while still plugged in it blew a fuse.
 
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