D8R hot trans?

Pro tip.
If you buy a Cat reman part, don't throw the box away. If you don't return the old unit in the original box you won't get a full core credit.

My learned friend makes a very good point. Do NOT throw the box away.......
Acksherley there ought to be some "Do's and Dont's" paperwork in the box with the Reman unit telling the buyer what they are supposed to do, returning the Core back in the original box being one of them. But of course who ever reads them..?

I actually got Partial Credit on a 3304 block where the rod had exited the side of the block in trade for a short block Reman.

I sure didn't ask why and I signed the paperwork as fast as I could. Then I went inside and paid my account in full before they could change their mind.

Hello Nige, I am new here and and wanted to say thank you for having me in the group. I am wondering if you can help me with finding a wiring diagram for a wheel loader; CAT 930h. Looking to find the source of power to a couple diodes that supply power (or are in line with) to the fuse that controls the front and back main external lights. (Would be headlights and tail lights). I found two completely burnt diodes under the fuse box and when i replaced both diodes, after extensive “wiring short” hunting I only have power to the diode supply wires (one diode 24v supply is blue other diode 24v supply is yellow.. both wires on output of diodes are purple) if I turn the head light switch on to either position 1 or position 2. Is this normal? Also is it normal that this machine allows head and tail lights to work with key out of ignition? Also wondering if you could help me find a wiring diagram for the magnets on the joystick? With kick out switch Engadged, i have green light on both the magnet switch on the boom and magnet switch by the bucket. But no power to the magnets on the joy stick

To get the correct schematic you will need a serial number as there are a few of them for 930H SWL
you would get more response if posted in the wheel loader section
Mark

Nige said:

My learned friend makes a very good point. Do NOT throw the box away.......
Acksherley there ought to be some "Do's and Dont's" paperwork in the box with the Reman unit telling the buyer what they are supposed to do, returning the Core back in the original box being one of them. But of course who ever reads them..?

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And one other thing is have the thing assembled if it is say a pump or starter, at least make it look like it was when removed!

Thank you for the suggestions. They didn't have me sign anything or tell me anything or send paperwork with instructions. I'll make sure to have it assembled and sent back in the box that was given to me. It's just a plywood box but I'll make sure.

Going to get a GoPro to film the whole thing now then heading to the machine.

I contacted Cat and asked exactly what they did to see the pump is bad. They said it's a K-strain test. Disconnect the highlighted hose, full throttle stall a component and it should give 1.5 gallons a minute or less. They said at idle without stall it was dumping 5 gallons every 10 seconds. Hopefully this makes sense to someone and you agree.

translation -- K-test will be case drain test which measures internal leakage of the pump
Mark

And if it's dumping that much oil the pump is most definitely foobarbed.

Rich Hooker said:

I am wondering if you can help me with finding a wiring diagram for a wheel loader; CAT 930h.

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Not wanting to derail this thread, but I sent you a PM.

Robert,
Cat will play fair on your core charge.
I stripped my failed D8R pump out of curiosity and it wasn't too bad.
I got about 1500 back if I recall

nicky 68a said:

Robert,
Cat will play fair on your core charge.
I stripped my failed D8R pump out of curiosity and it wasn't too bad.
I got about 1500 back if I recall

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I was thinking about stripping the core myself just to see if it's totally broken then see what they refund.

So I finally got time to work on the dozer. The hoses took 1 hour to get off, the trans pump took 20 minutes (2 bolts), the implement pump has 4 bolts. I took 3 off in 10 minutes then fought for literally 5 hours on the bottom bolt. The housing was in the way. I made 3 trips to a store for different tools until I finally realized I needed a swivel ratchet wrench. Once I got that I had it off in 20 minutes. Total tear down about 7 hours with the 5 hour hell learning curve.

Put implement pump on in 10 minutes, all bolts on in 10 minutes, forgot to hand tighten one bolt and it got stuck against the pump frame so took bolts back off a little to hand tighten that last bolt and tighten with wrench. Add another 15 min. Trans pump was a breeze, 10 mins to install and tighten bolts. About 45 minutes to install.

I asked cat for all seals including o-rings for hoses. They said it was all there but they forgot the o-rings. So I'm going tomorrow morning to get the o-rings and expect 1-1.5 hours to put hoses back on. So total install will be about 2.5 hours. If I needed to take the whole thing apart again I bet I could do it in 3 hours. Even with my 5 hour wrong tool mistake, a guy (me) with no mechanic experience on heavy equipment did it in less 10 hours without the right tools, 1/6 the 60 hours Cat said they would need. Adds to my mistrust of Cat. That along with them trying to charge 8 hours for the diagnostic.. then I said hey you called me at 9:30am and said it's done so why 8 hours? Then they responded saying oops you really owe 4 hours, our bad. Mhmm... Oh and they were also going to charge 20 hours to clean all hoses.. but also had all new hoses on their parts list, which hoses are custom built and non refundable so I said I'll get if needed, but still they said they were going to charge 10 hours to clean hoses.. new hoses.. very dubious.

Now for the dirty hydraulic tank. All hoses are clean but I cleaned them anyway with water and rags then let dry. Took 30 minutes since hoses were already off and only had 3 hoses connected to the tank. I tore down the entire fender around the tank and opened the tank, used a electric gun so that whole process took 10 minutes. There was about 3 hand fulls of dirt and rocks inside the tank. Good thing the tank sucks oil from the middle. Covered the intake, took a hose and blasted everything out then wiped with non lint towels. 15 minutes.

So cats 20 hour quote to tear down and clean took me 1 hour. Granted I didn't hook up a bladder and run everything to clean out any oil in the hydraulic pistons but since none of the hoses had any dirt in them even with the tank having dirt, I'll probably either change the hydraulic oil once or twice very quickly OR disconnect the return lines from the blade and ripper and let it spit out that old oil. Either way it will be taken care of quickly.

The whole process was very simple. It was hands on with heavy stuff but simple. Tomorrow is the big test to see if the pump was really bad or if it's a stuck valve. I'm still very skeptical of Cats diagnosis for two reasons, one they said they cut the hydraulic filter open and it was full of dirt and metal. Reason for skepticism is they didn't cut it open, and when I cut it open it contained no dirt or metal. Then two, they said they removed the line in the picture below and that's the k screen test which should give 1.5 gallons of oil at full rev and stall however mine gave 5 gallons in 10 seconds at idle. From what I just experienced with those hoses and oil, I find it hard to believe the one tech working by himself was able to disconnect a hose while holding a 5 gallon bucket way down there then turning the machine on from up top without spilling a little oil..then on top of that if they took out 5 gallons like they said the tank should have been 5 gallons lower but it was totally full. But then again they do have OSHA on their arse for any drop so maybe he did do it clean, but doesn't explain the filter not being cut or having dirt/metal and also why the hydraulic tank was full when they said they removed AND wasted 5 gallons. Tomorrow will tell if they really did a correct diagnosis

Dozer is up and running again. 3,500 psi at stall for ripper, tilt both ways. 1,000 Pai for lift which I assume is because of that recirculating thing that made it so I couldn't do the test on the lift cylinder by loosening the hose and going to stall then looking for more oil spilling out. Back to work tomorrow. I'm going to keep the gauge on permanently ha

This is the hose used for case drain to test the pump. When removed, at high idle stall it should leak 1.5 gallons a minute.

What's your plan going forward for replacing filters & (maybe) changing oil again to get any residual dirt out of the system..?
I would suggest to run the machine for a short time and have a sample of oil analyzed, but make sure that your request for the analysis includes a test for the ISO Cleanliness Code. It's not included in a standard test AFAIK.
Post your results back here.

Nige said:

What's your plan going forward for replacing filters & (maybe) changing oil again to get any residual dirt out of the system..?
I would suggest to run the machine for a short time and have a sample of oil analyzed, but make sure that your request for the analysis includes a test for the ISO Cleanliness Code. It's not included in a standard test AFAIK.
Post your results back here.

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I was going to drain and fill again after a short while but I'll do the sample first instead and let you know.

I will probably go around 80 hours and change the filters if the sample is good or change oil and filters if needed. I'll ask for the additional info

I really appreciate everyone's help

I'd go no more than 50 hours before taking another oil sample and changing the filter at the same time.

Call me suspicious, but...…….. do you have any idea how all the dirt might have got into the hydraulic tank..? Do you have/had any disgruntled ex-employees or similar..?
Have you considered using the locking mechanism on the caps if they have them..? (If not it's simple to install)

Nige said:

I'd go no more than 50 hours before taking another oil sample and changing the filter at the same time.

Call me suspicious, but...…….. do you have any idea how all the dirt might have got into the hydraulic tank..? Do you have/had any disgruntled ex-employees or similar..?
Have you considered using the locking mechanism on the caps if they have them..? (If not it's simple to install)

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DITTO, DITTO

S.Calif, locking fill caps are required. Disqruntled everyone, almost. Even use locking night switch (master electrical switch) is a good idea. Switch from 777 trucks have locking feature.

I have all compartment locks on all my kit.These systems are too open to contamination from disgruntled people