John Deere 310 SE Project

MAN!! That is a great job! You know you just saved yourself $900-$1200 or more dollars by doing that yourself!! NOW you have inspired me to do mine. I will try your approach and start on the pin first to see how tight everything is. Its not going to happen for me for a while as I have too many things apart. I had to get a pin made for that wood splitter. The company so far has been good to deal with as they said they would reimburse me for the cost of the new pin being made because their attachment was made bigger than what I had for dimensions...I have an air hammer too but was curious what end you used. Thanks for the picture. Now next time I go to Northern, I have to invest in the Granddaddy sized pipe wrench a John Deere seal kit and away I go..... Thanks Boone!

I'll be sure to tell my wife on the money saved. I need all the help I can get there. LOL

Go for it! It is a big job and several hours of labor especially if you've never done one. I split this up over two partial days, but it could be done in a day. Experts, half a day. I enjoy getting to take my time, inspect, clean the internals good, learn to see how it all works.

Glad to hear the manufacturer is working with you on the splitter. Would love to see that in action. I'm still jealous of all the bells and whistles on your machine!

Does anyone have any experience with Camso tires? Specifically for the rear 19.5-24 BHL 532.

I don't see much about them on the forum other than in the skidsteer section.

I bought a set. Got a good local deal.

They are a Canadian company owned by Michelin. Hopefully you will be happy.

Yeah, they seem like a pretty big outfit especially in the rubber track market. I've not heard much about them, good or bad. Just curious.

I'll post up some pictures of them when I get home.

Loading the old one's up.

Just rolled the news off the trailer. They had about 33 psi in them. I kept the old ones at about 20 psi. Will probably bleed a bit off of these.

Hey guys, I've been chasing a starting issue for awhile now. Thought I was on to it, but now I'm not sure where to go from here.

The symptoms are the machine sits for a week or so and it cold starts right up, but then stumbles and dies within 2 to 3 seconds. It won't startup again, until I scratch my head and wait a bit. I haven't quite isolated what will cause it to start again. I usually remove the engine side cover and jumper a wire from the starter 12V to the fuel pump solenoid. I can hear the solenoid clicking. But today, even this didn't get it started. I had my multi-meter on the solenoid and it was over 12V and it still wouldn't crank. I waited a minute or two more and then it cranked?? I removed the jumper wire after it was running and it continued to run. It will run fine for hours after this happens. It will start fine for the rest of the day as well. But it's happening more and more on cold start.

Ever since I've had the machine, 2+ years, the machine idles smooth as butter, but it seems at high throttle, it has always exhibited a slight miss and puffs a small amount of smoke, not much. It doesn't lose RPMs or power. It's never been such a problem that I've felt it needed attention. Not sure if this is related to the start issue?

It's a Stanadyne RE502378 (JD part number). I think it's the standard DB2.

Sounds like it’s time for a new supply pump.??
A week s.p. will cause a miss at hi idle..
It’s pumping enough to keep the pump happy at low idle but when it’s in hi idle, it can’t keep up with the fuel demand. Just a thought.

boone said:

Loading the old one's up.

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Looks like the machine is changing its own shoes!

boone said:

Hey guys, I've been chasing a starting issue for awhile now. Thought I was on to it, but now I'm not sure where to go from here.

The symptoms are the machine sits for a week or so and it cold starts right up, but then stumbles and dies within 2 to 3 seconds. It won't startup again, until I scratch my head and wait a bit. I haven't quite isolated what will cause it to start again. I usually remove the engine side cover and jumper a wire from the starter 12V to the fuel pump solenoid. I can hear the solenoid clicking. But today, even this didn't get it started. I had my multi-meter on the solenoid and it was over 12V and it still wouldn't crank. I waited a minute or two more and then it cranked?? I removed the jumper wire after it was running and it continued to run. It will run fine for hours after this happens. It will start fine for the rest of the day as well. But it's happening more and more on cold start.

Ever since I've had the machine, 2+ years, the machine idles smooth as butter, but it seems at high throttle, it has always exhibited a slight miss and puffs a small amount of smoke, not much. It doesn't lose RPMs or power. It's never been such a problem that I've felt it needed attention. Not sure if this is related to the start issue?

It's a Stanadyne RE502378 (JD part number). I think it's the standard DB2.

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So are you thinking this is an electrical problem in that it wont crank the starter motor, or is it a fuel delivery problem where the starter cranks but the engine wont fire? PS I still haven't tackled my crowd cylinder leak yet....sigh too much going on...

thepumpguysc said:

Sounds like it’s time for a new supply pump.??
A week s.p. will cause a miss at hi idle..
It’s pumping enough to keep the pump happy at low idle but when it’s in hi idle, it can’t keep up with the fuel demand. Just a thought.

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That does make sense. I was thinking I might replace the existing supply pump on it, just to see if it cures the miss.

I'm still collecting evidence on all this. It's only started doing this within the last month or so and I don't use it too often. I went out this afternoon to see if it would happen again and hoping to give you guys more info. It happened!

1) Put my multi-meter back on the fuel solenoid. Turn key on, 12V. Starts right up and stumbles to a stop in about 2 to 3 seconds. All the while the fuel solenoid has 12V and even increased to 13V once it started.
2) Waited a couple of minutes and did nothing. Turns over, but no start.
3) Wait another few minutes did nothing. Turns over, but no start.
4) I jumper the pump fuel shut-off solenoid to the battery 12V to make sure it's moving (clicking). It is. Turns over but no start.
5) I pull the throttle linkage a couple of times and jiggle the wiring harness which really only has the side oil pressure sending unit on it.
6) It STARTS!!

Seems it's either the throttle linkage movement causing something in the pump to open (plunger maybe)? Or the oil pressure sending unit which seems unlikely. After it started, I jiggled and jiggled those wires and it never missed a beat.

Could the fuel shutoff in the pump be opening and then closing?

I videoed all of this so I could go back and make sure my steps were accurate. I can splice all the video and post it up if it would help.

Fred from MO said:

Looks like the machine is changing its own shoes!

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Good to hear from you! Built in jacks and crane. Sure made it easy.

Fred from MO said:

So are you thinking this is an electrical problem in that it wont crank the starter motor, or is it a fuel delivery problem where the starter cranks but the engine wont fire? PS I still haven't tackled my crowd cylinder leak yet....sigh too much going on...

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Sorry, I probably confused things. It turns over fine every time. Got that fixed by replacing the starter relay back a page or so. But within the last month or so it's been starting but then will not restart. It turns over fine.

I was thinking it was electrical at first, because the first time it happened, I checked voltage at the fuel pump shutoff solenoid and it didn't look like it was getting 12V. When I jumped over to the starter 12V supply it started. I think that may have been a bad ground on my multi-meter and luck that it started. That's what led me down the electrical path. I replaced the key switch and traced all the wires, even rewired the fuel shutoff wire straight off the fuse to eliminate the old wire. But this hasn't helped. It's doing the same thing, so I don't think it's electrical at this point.

I'm supposed to help a friend dig a water line in a couple of weeks and hoping this thing is ready to go when I call on it.

Regarding your cylinder leak, oil might be a penny cheaper now. I just replaced my boom cylinder hoses and orings. The hoses were cracking right in front of wobble sticks. I didn't want a surprise oil bath.

Got the video uploaded. Sorry, it's a bit long.

To clarify, when I jumped over to the 12V off the starter, I was only doing it to exercise the solenoid to make sure it was moving. I didn't leave it on to start it. I did that yesterday and it didn't help.

The harness I was jiggling only has the oil pressure sensor which just lights up the dash light. It doesn't turn the machine off as far as I can tell from the schematic. Like I said, the fuel solenoid source wire is brand new in it's own sheath.

I'm 95% sure it was moving the throttle linkage that made it start. I'll try it again this week and see if I can get it to happen and see if stepping on the pedal will make a difference.

boone said:

Got the video uploaded. Sorry, it's a bit long.

To clarify, when I jumped over to the 12V off the starter, I was only doing it to exercise the solenoid to make sure it was moving. I didn't leave it on to start it. I did that yesterday and it didn't help.

The harness I was jiggling only has the oil pressure sensor which just lights up the dash light. It doesn't turn the machine off as far as I can tell from the schematic. Like I said, the fuel solenoid source wire is brand new in it's own sheath.

I'm 95% sure it was moving the throttle linkage that made it start. I'll try it again this week and see if I can get it to happen and see if stepping on the pedal will make a difference.

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You mean you didn't read in the owners manual about the Deere anti-theft device???!!! Every time you have to start those SE's you have to jiggle the throttle linkage! No just kidding! That is an odd one? Seems to be a gremlin in the works? Let me think on this, but it appears you may have a short in the wiring somewhere? At least you are narrowing things down...process of elimination always is a good thing. Wonder if that wire to the pump is causing a short?-Just guessing on my part at this moment?

LOL, theft proof for millennials who've never driven a carbureted engine where you stomp the pedal before start.

The wire to the pump is brand new. Couple of weeks ago, I inspected all the old wiring from the control panel down to the pump. It all looked good, but as added insurance while I had the floor pans out, I reran a new wire in a new sheath straight off the fuel pump fuse to the pump. When it happened again Saturday, I wired up my new wire so I know that's a clean wire. I even bought a new switch thinking maybe it was getting a weak 12V.

Went by the green and yellow $tore this morning and bought a new transfer pump and fuel filter. Just want to eliminate everything up to the IP. That'll be the only thing left. I plan inspect the tank again to make sure I haven't stirred up something at the top of the tank. I've always run seafoam and stanadyne fuel treatment to help keep the IP clean. I'll check the old filter when I change it. Maybe tonight.

It's doesn't really smoke at all, just on decel and only every so often when it sounds like it's missing a bit.

Went out tonight to wake the old girl up. Started right up and stumbled to a stop just like in the video. I took a screw driver handle and a tapped a bit on the IP. No start, got off and tapped some more a bit more aggressively and it started.

I read in the service manual where hard or no starts could be a stuck metering valve.



I did a bit more googling and searching on the forum and this seems like it could be the issue. It's never stalled on me after running except on first cold startup. YET. I'm afraid it might start.

Either way, I replaced the fuel filter with a new JD filter I picked up this morning. Primed it with the old supply pump. Cranked up a bit hesitantly, but stayed running and smoothed out. Then replaced the supply pump. Cranked right up. Smoked a bit but ran good. I let it run 5 minutes or so to make sure all the air was out of the system. I don't think this will fix it, but at least those things are not the issue.



I dumped the old filter out and pounded it on a blue paper towel and it had no debris I could see.



I'll keep playing with it. If it is the metering valve would it be serviceable while on the machine? I googled and saw where it is and what it looks like. Would like to remove it and spin it around in some emery cloth with some cleaning solution.

No, don’t attempt to take it out..
You’ll be able to tell if it’s sticking by using your finger.. it should move very freely in its bore.
If it’s sticking, u can free it up by using brake cleaner and your fingers..

Thanks, TPG. If it stops exhibits the problem, next step will be to take a look inside the top cover, test the solenoid and check to make sure the MV is opening freely when the pressure is off.

The other day, I started dismantling the top cover. Disconnected the return line. Took off the return adapter and blew through the glass check ball valve. Seemed to be working. Went ahead and blew through the return line. It was pressurizing the tank as I had my hand over the fill. All clear there. The top cover for this DB4429-5303 pump is on with 5 point security torx. Not the typical 6 point security you get at the hardware store. Everything on pause waiting on some Taiwan bits from Bezos. BTW, while awaiting bits, I assembled the lines back up and made sure it fired up in case the bits I ordered didn't work.



Bits are in and they fit! Tonight, I didn't wiggle the throttle linkage or tap the pump. Started right up and didn't go dead on me like it has the last half dozen cold starts. It ran a little rough but it smoothed out.

Turned it off and started disassembly. Got the cover off. The metering valve seem to move freely. Everything looked relatively clean. I'm assuming the metering tab pushed all the way toward the back of the pump is off. The solenoid releases it and allows it to come forward via spring pressure.



I did see where the solenoid has a crack in it, but it was snapping like a turtle when I cycled it a few times. Don't think it's the problem, but a problem that probably needs addressing at some point? How severe is this?



I did drain the top reservoir and sprayed a bit of brake cleaner on the moving parts. I put the cover back on, hopefully correct, I had to push the MV to the back to get the cover on. Hope that's right. I didn't tighten it back down in case you guys want me to look at something else.

Here's a video of the movement of the MV. I was wondering what the function of the little folded wire was in second picture riding on the center shaft toward the back of the pump. It looks like at full stop it pushed the big cam thing over. Not sure the purpose of this.