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case 580ck d188 slow cranking
- Thread starter John580CK
- Start date
as soon as I get back to it,that's the plan
sorry guys, I've catching up on paying work. Will get back to the case soon and let you guys know...thx
all parts inside this starter were replaced
The problem I've been told is there are no OEM parts available, so any rebuild is only as good as the cheap import parts. That $117 amazon starter looks like a good bet. Where's Vetech, still making the popcorn? A gear reduction starter will turn faster and cure many starting problems. You won't pay anymore for that one than a direct drive, but a genuine Denso, or Mahle/Iskra/Letrika will be $300 or so, and worth it if you plan to keep the machine forever.
You should be able to turn the engine over with the fan. Might have to grab the belt with one hand also. That will tighten the belt, and the engine will turn easily until you hit the compression. Let it sit five seconds and it will turn again easily. You should be able to turn the engine 360 that way, but since this has run fine, you just want to see if anything is dragging. You know it's not locked up.
You should be able to turn the engine over with the fan. Might have to grab the belt with one hand also. That will tighten the belt, and the engine will turn easily until you hit the compression. Let it sit five seconds and it will turn again easily. You should be able to turn the engine 360 that way, but since this has run fine, you just want to see if anything is dragging. You know it's not locked up.
hookedondiesel
Senior Member
With the oil filter almost empty, I'm wondering if your engine is all plugged up with junk. I've seen this before, have you tried running it without the oil filter? Just briefly of course. Since the fuel filter was also blocked, it could be an issue. If the engine can't breath, it could cause slow starting. Remove air filter also, and see if it sucks air, be careful, this has the potential to suck your hand in.
Birdseye
Well-Known Member
That’s theory #4:
- engine plugged up with junk
- hydraulic pump stuck or restricted
- weak and underperforming starter
- injection pump somehow stiff or causing the engine to be restricted
Disconnecting the hydraulic pump coupling on my 580se takes 4 bolts, it’s a pain , takes an hour, if you could do that it would eliminate or confirm one theory.
- engine plugged up with junk
- hydraulic pump stuck or restricted
- weak and underperforming starter
- injection pump somehow stiff or causing the engine to be restricted
Disconnecting the hydraulic pump coupling on my 580se takes 4 bolts, it’s a pain , takes an hour, if you could do that it would eliminate or confirm one theory.
jimg984
Senior Member
HE TOOK A TIME OUT ON GETTING REPIIES!!! you must have missed his message
can't rule that out yet but seems like there would be a least a spec of evidence in the filter or oil
well guys,the verdict is in. finally found a gear reduction starter with matching part number to my original. less than $200. cranks like a mf now!!!!!!!!! yay now on to the other issues. thank you everyone for trying to help me! I really appreciate it
Birdseye
Well-Known Member
Great to hear the good news John ! It would be so much easier if starters would just completely fail, this slow degrading thing is a nuisance to figure out.
Be sure to let us know how it goes at the motor shop when you take back their rebuilt unit.
Be sure to let us know how it goes at the motor shop when you take back their rebuilt unit.
I already called them and they said get it back to them and they will do what it takes to make it right
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Great news !
What brand is the new starter ?
I ask because someone with the same problem may want to know.
What brand is the new starter ?
I ask because someone with the same problem may want to know.
Bootheal
Senior Member
Tinkerer’s question + where did you find it?
Tinkerer
Senior Member
I read the description of the starter on the Amazon ad.
What caught my attention was that the gear reduction starter has a 9 tooth pinon gear as opposed to a 10 tooth on the OEM.
I never thought that could be done without detrimental effects on the ring and pinion gears. Hmmmm ?
I read that the nose of the gear reduction starter has a completely different profile to allow the 9 tooth gear.
What caught my attention was that the gear reduction starter has a 9 tooth pinon gear as opposed to a 10 tooth on the OEM.
I never thought that could be done without detrimental effects on the ring and pinion gears. Hmmmm ?
I read that the nose of the gear reduction starter has a completely different profile to allow the 9 tooth gear.
it works and sounds great like it has proper engagement
Tinkerer
Senior Member
I had no doubt that it did, John.
I just have a natural curiosity about how anything works.
I think perhaps a machinist or some one that knows more than I do, could explain how that substitution can be made without a putting a strain, and accelerated wear of the two gears.
Perhaps it is the huge difference in the OD of them that makes it possible.
I just have a natural curiosity about how anything works.
I think perhaps a machinist or some one that knows more than I do, could explain how that substitution can be made without a putting a strain, and accelerated wear of the two gears.
Perhaps it is the huge difference in the OD of them that makes it possible.