CAT 963 - Right Machine?

[BackertheBiker]

Making progress out here! Got the keyway all in, and started moving dirt. Just working on the high ends of the dam first, I’ll get as much done there as I can before I close the ditch in and have to really go for it. Machine is running great! Track tensioner I was worried about is holding beautifully. I still have A LOT of dirt to move though.

Headed to San Antonio for the weekend - will get back and hit it hard next week..

 

[MarcusZ1967]

That is COOL!

 

[MG84]

I’ll get as much done there as I can before I close the ditch in and have to really go for it.

If you do a stand pipe style overflow you can leave the horizontal leg open until the pond is finished to act as a culvert. That's what we do, takes some of the pressure off you not having to worry about the pond filling too soon, and IMO it's a better style overflow as well.

 

[BackertheBiker]

If you do a stand pipe style overflow you can leave the horizontal leg open until the pond is finished to act as a culvert. That's what we do, takes some of the pressure off you not having to worry about the pond filling too soon, and IMO it's a better style overflow as well.

Yes, this is the main reason I entertained that overflow style. But the cost is prohibitive.. Do you use PVC? Someone here said they use double wall corrugated for under-water vertical pipe?

 

[MG84]

Yes, this is the main reason I entertained that overflow style. But the cost is prohibitive.. Do you use PVC? Someone here said they use double wall corrugated for under-water vertical pipe?

Sch 40 PVC or SDR 35 for 12" diameter or less. In the past we used corrugated galvanized for a large 48" standpipe, never tried plastic. Do they make T-fittings for the double wall corrugated plastic? I'd be concerned about leaks at the joints, maybe encase them in concrete?

 

[CM1995]

Do they make T-fittings for the double wall corrugated plastic? I'd be concerned about leaks at the joints, maybe encase them in concrete?

Yes ADS makes Tees, Wyes, 90's, 45's, 22.5's, etc. There is a soil tight and water tight gasket option. Have a job coming up with a bunch of fittings and Nyoplast inlets.

Dual Wall - Tees

www.adspipe.com

I have never used the water tight fittings since all the HDPE we install is for storm drainage.

 

[BackertheBiker]

I’ve been making good progress on the dam! But will be down for repairs for a bit here. More on that in a minute..

Here’s the progress as of this weekend.

I’ve got both ends of the dam built up to height, nearly about as far as I can go without closing the creek in. I did have to re-dig part of the keyway. There was water coming up in the creek, about 30’ below the keyway. I dug the first time about 8’ deep down at the bottom of the hill, and through the ditch, and even hit water when I got down there. But apparently it wasn’t deep enough, and water was getting underneath yet. And I remember not getting to anything real solid, but telling myself I was below water so it was good enough.. I was wrong.. Dug it back out, and had to go 10’-14’ deep to get to solid bottom clay. Closed it back up this weekend, and so-far no more water running below the keyway.

So I was ready to take a few days off work and hit this dam hard and finish it up! Then tonight, pushing some junk soil up the hill, the machine started bouncing. I look out and the right side track is completely loosened up.. This is the same track my buddy couldn’t get to tension, so he was just pulling it out with a backhoe.. I got it to take grease and tensioned it up before I started the project, and it’s held tight for over 50 hours of operation now. But it totally **** the bed tonight. I tensioned it back up, which it did tension well, but after just one more trip up the hill it was slacked out again, and there’s a pile of grease inside under the tensioner cylinder.



So unless there’s some trick I don’t know, or something else this could be that I need to check first, it looks like I’ll be pulling the tensioner out for a rebuild. Anyone have a link to a good how-to? List of parts I’ll need? I assume track needs to be split to do this? I’ve never had a tracked machine - this is all new to me.. Thanks for any help.

- Backer

 

[skyking1]

If it came out of the seal area then yes, you need to pull it. If it is at the fill check valve then that is where you need to go.

 

[BackertheBiker]

Is the machine I have, going to be same setup as I see in this video?

Y'all think I can get it done without splitting the track?

Seemed like the puddle of grease was back below where the cylinder comes out of the housing, but maybe I didn't look closely enough - maybe it's coming from below the flange connection where the zerk is.? I'll have to take another look tonight.. Would be nice if I didn't have to split the track and pull that idler forward!

Also, obviously need to source a good seal kit. I looked on CAT's website at break here, but couldn't find a rebuild kit. Diagram just shows the cylinder as a unit as far as I could see.. I'm in southern Indiana if there's a good shop in the area I can get parts from.



- Backer

 

[Nige]

Is the machine I have, going to be same setup as I see in this video?

Probably not. The track loaders tensioner mechanism is generally different to a tractor. Post a Serial Number for accurate information.

obviously need to source a good seal kit. I looked on CAT's website at break here, but couldn't find a rebuild kit.

Not likely to be a kit for a track tensioner. Usually it's only a couple of seals.

Y'all think I can get it done without splitting the track?

The quick answer is probably not. However if the track links have loads of wear you might be able to get the track off to the side enough to allow the idler & tensioner mechanism to be pulled out from the front. The track should have a crocodile-style master link which is not hard to get apart. Have you looked for one.?

 

[Oxbow]

To expand on what Skyking was saying, if the grease was leaking out around the ram seals then it needs pulled, but it is possible that the valve where the grease fitting is isn't tightened all the way. This is unlikely as you were able to tighten the track, but it might be possible for grease to leak back out once pressure is on it in operation if it weren't tightened all the way. So, like he said, determine if the grease is coming out around the grease fitting area or around the ram.

 

[BackertheBiker]

Probably not. The track loaders tensioner mechanism is generally different to a tractor. Post a Serial Number for accurate information.

Not likely to be a kit for a track tensioner. Usually it's only a couple of seals.

The quick answer is probably not. However if the track links have loads of wear you might be able to get the track off to the side enough to allow the idler & tensioner mechanism to be pulled out from the front. The track should have a crocodile-style master link which is not hard to get apart. Have you looked for one.?

Serial # is 06Z01395

I called the local CAT shop, and they sent me the parts explosion below:



I believe I'm probably looking at the top left section, items 1,2,12,13. Not sure what item 3 is? Also, it's not clear to me what that sectoin on the bottom is? I'll get home and start tearing into it - was just hoping it may be obvious what I would need, and I could maybe get the parts on order ahead of time. Time being of the essence here..

Track seems to be fairly tight, so I'll probably have to split it. It was basically dark when it happened last night so I haven't looked for the master link yet, but stayed up watching some youtube videos last night. Believe I know what I'm looking for when I get home. Where would everyone suggest I position that master link before separating? 1/4 track length behind the front idler, roughly?

To expand on what Skyking was saying, if the grease was leaking out around the ram seals then it needs pulled, but it is possible that the valve where the grease fitting is isn't tightened all the way. This is unlikely as you were able to tighten the track, but it might be possible for grease to leak back out once pressure is on it in operation if it weren't tightened all the way. So, like he said, determine if the grease is coming out around the grease fitting area or around the ram.

I assumed that was the message there. Not leaking at the grease zerk or the relief valve. Seems to be the piston / Ram seals. Sounds like track off, piston out, replace seals..

Thanks All!

 

[Nige]

I called the local CAT shop, and they sent me the parts explosion below:

Pity it was only half the story. The front idler & tensioner is is 2 parts but they only sent you one making interpreting it impossible..... Attached the full parts list. Note that the quantities are for BOTH sides, so to do one side you will only need half of what's listed. I've highlighted what I think you may need. The lip seals #6 and the bushes in the support (#10 in Part 1) may also require replacement.

You will have fun removing the bulkhead. The extractor holes will certainly need tapping out before installing the forcing screws and it will probably need plenty of heat in addition to the screws (plus maybe the biggest hammer you have) to get it to move. Plenty of anti-seize called for when reinstalling.

 

[BackertheBiker]

Quick Update:

I decided I and my toolbox weren’t up to the task above. I have most the backhoe tools I need, but I had no way to break any of those big bolts on the bulkhead or front idler loose. So I found a local guy who came out and used the manual above to work on it.. Turns out, the manual doesn’t match the machine I have here. No hard feelings, I really appreciate all the help I’ve gotten here.. But the tensioner cylinder doesn’t quite fit out the front. Repair guy said the frame mount arm / whatever it’s called, stuck out too far and wouldn’t quite allow the tensioner cylinder out. So he had to take the whole track frame off to get the tensioner out.

Good news is, he turned out to be a hard working hell of a mechanic, with a very decent labor rate. Worked 2 days out here, and labor and parts and everything came out below $2k. He got a little cash bonus with his payment - I was very happy with his service. Mehringer Diesel Repair out of Jasper, IN if anyone needs a good mechanic in the area.

Track is now holding tension, and I’m moving dirt as fast as I can! Progress in pics below!

 

[Welder Dave]

Looks pretty good.

 

[DMiller]

Well done!

 

[Georgia Iron]

But the tensioner cylinder doesn’t quite fit out the front. Repair guy said the frame mount arm / whatever it’s called, stuck out too far and wouldn’t quite allow the tensioner cylinder out. So he had to take the whole track frame off to get the tensioner out.

Is that normal needing to remove the whole track frame to get the tensioner out?

 

[Nige]

Is that normal needing to remove the whole track frame to get the tensioner out?

No, but if the bulkhead has never been removed before and is sezied then it may need more access to get at things than can be achieved by just removing the idler.

 

[BackertheBiker]

He said he got the bulkhead out, but the tensioner wouldn’t slide past the frame mount. Excuse my terminology, I don’t know exactly what it’s called. The track on this machine seems to be different than is in the manual. I’ll grab a pic here shortly and explain better..

 

[DMiller]

Nige, were any of these equipped with a Dozer 'Cannon' setup?