D6c cat loss of oil pressure

[thepumpguysc]

Drag is one thing, rough is another..
A fresh turbo w/ assembly lube will spin for about 5 seconds w/ a spin on the nut from your fingers.
The side to side play is equally important..

 

[Steve.ahlgren85]

It is hard to spin!I am going to have to disassemble it, put new bearings in.Thanks..

 

[kshansen]

It is hard to spin!I am going to have to disassemble it, put new bearings in.Thanks..

I think at least one person tried telling you that with all the crap that went through this engine anything motor oil touched would need to be thoroughly disassembled and cleaned if not out right replaced.

I'm hoping this "new" engine came with a new or remaned oil cooler do not even think of reusing the old one. If the new engine does not have the oil filter head with it yours needs to be completely disassembled with every fitting and plug removed and all holes thoroughly scrubbed clean. Not sure of what fuel system this engine has but if the injector pump is lubed by engine oil I feel that would also need some good cleaning to be safe. It would not be good if you were to start the new engine and something was caught in the governor and made the engine overspeed and blow up. That would surely ruin my day if it was mine!

 

[Steve.ahlgren85]

Yes, I have a new oil cooler coming,also a new oil pump is here and I am cleaning all of the oil passages and ports.The fuel pump is a sleeve metering system and is lubricated by diesel fuel. Thanks for letting me know about the oil filter head. I very easily would have missed that.You guys are a BIG help. Thanks a bunch !

 

[Steve.ahlgren85]

Hey, a couple questions for my friends on the forum. I am finishing up putting the new engine together and would like to know if I should add oil to the flywheel crankcase or does it get oil from the transmission case?When I took it off,about three gallons of heavy gear lube came out of the crankcase. Also, what is the most accurate way of timing the fuel pump?

 

[Steve.ahlgren85]

Some pictures of the new engine. It fit in the machine like a glove. So far I have spent a little over?10,000 and my own labor! kind in

 

[DMiller]

You will be well ahead of the game once done. Should be a fine machine.

 

[DoyleX]

So far I have spent a little over?10,000 and my own labor!

Just wait till you get to tear into the back part of it. I'd be scared poopless with one 7/8 washer tacked lifting and twisting 1,500lbs. on each.

Looks like if it holds together ya got something good to work with.

 

[kshansen]

Just wait till you get to tear into the back part of it. I'd be scared poopless with one 7/8 washer tacked lifting and twisting 1,500lbs. on each.

Yikes! I did not notice that till I went back and looked closer. I know I would not trust my "welding" for something like that. Strange thing is I seem to recall the 3306 engines in our loaders all came with nice heavy duty lifting eyes already installed.

 

[Steve.ahlgren85]

Yes I know but I had the engine safely strapped also,it all went in just fine with our telehandler lift .I just hope it starts!!

 

[Steve.ahlgren85]

What do you mean about tearing into the back part of it?I don't expect any more problems!!

 

[Nige]

What do you mean about tearing into the back part of it?I don't expect any more problems!!

I see your optimism hasn't been dampened yet, despite all the tribulations you've had with the engine. Give it time ......... you might not be expecting any more problems but with a 50-year-old (or somewhere thereabouts) tractor you can bank on something taking a dump on you at some point in time. Sooner or later it WILL happen.

 

[Steve.ahlgren85]

Hopefully not!!

 

[DMiller]

We used as insignificant of lifting eyes in the field as I was a wrench, you did with what we could make or scrounge up. Welds looked alright although I would have aligned the washers with the engine centerline, we did use home built spreader bars to keep from pulling the eyes toward center and to level as needed as well.

 

[Steve.ahlgren85]

I am no stranger to problems with a caterpillar d6.We used to have a d69u series tractor with a dry clutch and a pony starter engine. I remember taking the clutch out of the machine more than one time,that was a lot of fun working on that machine. That engine though was as tough as nails. I don't remember ever having a problem with the engine. They don't make them like they used to. That being said, I am hoping for a good run with this machine.

 

[Scrub Puller]

Yair . . .
Steve. I admire your optimism but questions like this seem to indicate you still don't have a manual . . . .

I am finishing up putting the new engine together and would like to know if I should add oil to the flywheel crankcase or does it get oil from the transmission case?When I took it off,about three gallons of heavy gear lube came out of the crankcase. Also, what is the most accurate way of timing the fuel pump?

It is quite beyond me. Obviously you have so much in this machine now why the hell would you not spend a few hundred bucks to get proper Caterpillar advise?

Don't be in a hurry to start that engine.

With a strange and unknown engine with assorted bolt on bits and pieces I have been known to hook up a little gear pump and pressurize all the galleries and crank before bolting on the sump.

At very least I would decompress it (or pull injectors), line up some spare batteries and check it makes and maintains oil pressure with the starter . . . check for flow anyplace that it should drip. That's me though, I'm just a bush mechanic.

Rough and all as I am I have ever done an engine change without at least a decent pressure wash of the machine and immediate surrounds, once you start getting into the guts of things the housekeeping needs to be up to scratch.

All the best with it.

 

[D6c10K]

Also, before starting I'd leave the air cleaner housing off and have a plate handy in case you get a run-away engine that won't shut down. Slap the plate over the inlet to cut off the air. (Make sure there aren't any shop rags close by that might get sucked in)

 

[kshansen]

Also, before starting I'd leave the air cleaner housing off and have a plate handy in case you get a run-away engine that won't shut down. Slap the plate over the inlet to cut off the air. (Make sure there aren't any shop rags close by that might get sucked in)

And if you do need to use the plate to kill the engine don't get your fingers between the plate and the intake! Might want to have a handle like a drawer pull on it to be safe.

 

[Steve.ahlgren85]

Thanks for all of the advice. I do have a manual but doesn't say anything about how much oil should be in the torque converter case!!,at least I cannot find it.The back pages list oil capacities, but nothing for converter case!!I I am very confident that the fuel pump is timed correctly. Why would the engine take off and run wild if I am controlling the fuel pump handle?If my hand controls the amount of fuel the engine is getting, why would it take off, run wild?THANKS

 

[kshansen]

Well if this is a powershift D6 and you filled the transmission to the correct level and recheck it per the manual after you have it running it should be good to go.

I admit I'm a bit confused by this statement:
"When I took it off,about three gallons of heavy gear lube came out of the crankcase. "
I have no idea of what you are talking about when you say "flywheel crankcase" and then you use the term "converter case".
There is something wrong if there is heavy gear lube in a torque converter, what is in the transmission?
If I'm off base here and there is suppose to be heavy gear lube in that area I hope someone can point me to the correct information.


Your hand only really controls the pressure on the spring in the governor, it's not like the throttle in a carburetor engine where the linkage is connected directly to the butterflies in the carb. It's your money and life so if you choose not to take advice from those of us who have a combined knowledge of hundreds of years go for it! Just noticed your location, do a search on awards by that name.