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Detroit 2-Cycles in 2017+

OL2STROKER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2017
Messages
47
Location
Broadalbin NY
that's where i was told to put it ...... we did end up backing it down a little, he got cold feet. I wouldn't have any problem spinning anything I built that fast.
 

StanRUS

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2016
Messages
767
Location
Cal
that's where i was told to put it ...... we did end up backing it down a little, he got cold feet. I wouldn't have any problem spinning anything I built that fast.
Which association 'rules' are running under?
Most 'truck pullers' have RPM limits.
 

Birken Vogt

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2003
Messages
5,341
Location
Grass Valley, Ca
I beg to differ. Many diesels will run on shots of ether till the fuel gets there. :confused:

I suppose, and if it doesn't start on little shots then the answer is to give it bigger and bigger shots right?

I suppose this is a problem that sort of reinforces itself with bad mechanics. They have gotten a few engines to self prime by running them on ether so they think it is an acceptable practice.

As for me, I will only use ether if I see white fuel smoke coming out the exhaust first and figure all it needs is a little warmth to fire it up. No fuel being injected = fix the problem not spray ether at it. Using hand pump or drill pump or air if necessary.

I have tried the gasoline rag/propane/WD40 and it sometimes result in sputtering and white smoke turning black but not a reliable start. I am not scared of a little ether applied properly.
 

RZucker

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
4,077
Location
Wherever I end up
Occupation
Mechanic/welder
I suppose, and if it doesn't start on little shots then the answer is to give it bigger and bigger shots right?

I suppose this is a problem that sort of reinforces itself with bad mechanics. They have gotten a few engines to self prime by running them on ether so they think it is an acceptable practice.

As for me, I will only use ether if I see white fuel smoke coming out the exhaust first and figure all it needs is a little warmth to fire it up. No fuel being injected = fix the problem not spray ether at it. Using hand pump or drill pump or air if necessary.

I have tried the gasoline rag/propane/WD40 and it sometimes result in sputtering and white smoke turning black but not a reliable start. I am not scared of a little ether applied properly.

I've seen more than a few Detriot injectors seize needle valves from "ether priming" they need that fuel for lube and cooling. A few years back I ran into a 3406E cat that lost an ECM feed and the driver used a ton of ether trying to start it. Week later it was back with 2 broken injector tips. Man that was a smoker!
 
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Birken Vogt

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2003
Messages
5,341
Location
Grass Valley, Ca
Yes, Detroit my standard procedure was to loosen the nut at the fuel pump inlet and have somebody pressure the tank with air, then put the (hopefully flare) fitting back on the pump while still spewing fuel.

Then crank it up, it usually starts without any help right away that way.
 

alskdjfhg

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2015
Messages
405
Location
Houston TX
Yes, Detroit my standard procedure was to loosen the nut at the fuel pump inlet and have somebody pressure the tank with air, then put the (hopefully flare) fitting back on the pump while still spewing fuel.

I found that hard to do, I don't have a service truck with a compressor and even having a shop is a relatively new thing. For along time having air was just a goal, not reality.

I always used inline electric fuel pumps instead.

All y'all guys know those, but when I found out about them it was a huge deal......
 

RZucker

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
4,077
Location
Wherever I end up
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Mechanic/welder
A 3 gallon weed sprayer modified to plumb into the secondary filter works well and it's cheap. put a shutoff valve on the hose, pump it up hard, then open the valve for 20 seconds, and they start right up. Let it run a minute or 2, shut it down, disconnect and it should be good to go. The Wabco 333FT's and 353FT's I used to work on all had 1/4 turn valves installed with dirt plugs on the rear engines so it only took me about 10 minutes to prime one.
And NEVER change a Detroit fuel filter on a cold engine. It works much better when they will fire immediately.
 

John C.

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
12,870
Location
Northwest
Occupation
Machinery & Equipment Appraiser
I never could get the air pressure in the tank thing to work on a Detroit. Took me a while to figure out that the air pressure was also pushing on the return line. Used to disconnect the return line on the back of the head and cap the tank side. Then put air to the tank. I think I like the weed sprayer idea a lot better.
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,654
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Best luck I ever had was using a old 12v electric fuel pump, used to keep one in my tote box just for out of fuel runs.

Last one I had lasted 9 years then sat too long and went solid(corrosion). Pretty cheap device I think gave $18 for and had 1/4" pipe threads in/out then adapted fittings as needed. Be like what one would put on a remote mount generator or welder to run off truck tank. Cheapest cost tool I ever had that actually worked well.
 

Birken Vogt

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2003
Messages
5,341
Location
Grass Valley, Ca
I never could get the air pressure in the tank thing to work on a Detroit. Took me a while to figure out that the air pressure was also pushing on the return line. Used to disconnect the return line on the back of the head and cap the tank side. Then put air to the tank. I think I like the weed sprayer idea a lot better.

Well it always worked for me. You have to disconnect the line (I choose the one that goes into the feed pump) and hold it in your hand until good solid fuel comes out. Preferably hook it up when still spewing. It makes a huge mess.

Then crank the engine immediately, and the transfer pump should be pumping. If not, then start back at square one.
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,654
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
My biggest enemy was the local Fire Dept. 6L71, 8v71 equipped with 45 gal. rear of chassis 30' away from engine tanks low on frame. That is when that little electric pump was handiest as these guys were too busy working fires to watch fuel gauges and they generally needed it back Yesterday!
 

old-iron-habit

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
4,233
Location
Moose Lake, MN
Occupation
Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
I got a Detroit question from a fellow on another forum that someone may be able to answer. I know Ken mentioned he rebuilt some of these. On the V16-71 or any other front to back Detroit that use two blocks, is the crankshaft or other components beefed up on the back engine to handle the extra power? Now he has me curious also.
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,197
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
I got a Detroit question from a fellow on another forum that someone may be able to answer. I know Ken mentioned he rebuilt some of these. On the V16-71 or any other front to back Detroit that use two blocks, is the crankshaft or other components beefed up on the back engine to handle the extra power? Now he has me curious also.

If by beefed up on the back engine I would say no, as best I recall the 16V-71's used the same main and rod bearings as say the 6V-71.

Well actually took a look in an old parts book from 1972 and yes main and rod bearings are all the same for all V-71's. Only thing I see different is the 16V-71 uses a different oil seal at the rear seal, not sure what the difference is there.
 

old-iron-habit

Senior Member
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Nov 22, 2012
Messages
4,233
Location
Moose Lake, MN
Occupation
Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
If by beefed up on the back engine I would say no, as best I recall the 16V-71's used the same main and rod bearings as say the 6V-71.

Well actually took a look in an old parts book from 1972 and yes main and rod bearings are all the same for all V-71's. Only thing I see different is the 16V-71 uses a different oil seal at the rear seal, not sure what the difference is there.

Thanks Ken,
That's interesting. I guess it shows how tough they were built to start with. Almost seems with double the horsepower the flywheel end of the crank would twist right off.
 

crane operator

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
8,373
Location
sw missouri
If I remember correctly, the 12v92 we pulled out of a boat 6-7 years ago had a single crank. The blocks were "back to back" 6v92 but it wasn't exactly two separate engines "bolted" together. It had a one piece crank.
 

hvy 1ton

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2006
Messages
1,948
Location
Lawrence, KS
I have thought about a YouTube channel many times. I don't simply because of the keyboard commandos! Well that and I prefer to keep a low profile :)
I'd watch your videos. The comment section of Youtube is known to the state of California to cause cancer.
 

Junkyard

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2016
Messages
3,646
Location
Claremore, OK
Occupation
Field Mechanic
I'd watch your videos. The comment section of Youtube is known to the state of California to cause cancer.

Sometimes the comments are better than the videos. Occasionally you learn more there than the actual video! If nothing else they're great examples of "what not to do!"
 
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