Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

[darinray]

OUCH! Sorry to hear you didn't find me sooner. :Banghead Well maybe you will save someone else the headache because of this post.

Darin

The clutch on the left side is probably burnt up and will need to be replaced. You better be ready, I just put new clutches and brakes in a D20 and Komatsu is the only place to get all the parts. The total parts bill was over $5000. Good luck

 

[mikesmble]

OUCH! Sorry to hear you didn't find me sooner. :Banghead Well maybe you will save someone else the headache because of this post.

Darin

So you can get the parts aftermarket? I did find the clutch disk but the brake drums and the inner hubs were not available. Komatsu said it was cheeper to buy assemblys than to rebuild.

 

[mikesmble]

DR when I am backing up my right track seems to start locking up and pulls me to the right. you said I should look for oil in my brake clutches correct? i have gotten a service manual and that will help me. Any other info you can give me will be appreciated. The dealer told me $850 for an inspection and adjustment. Unless parts are needed. What do you think. Thanks again

Look at the outside around the sprocket and make sure you dont have a bearing down on your axle. Also how are your pins and bushings, I have seen buhings hang up on the sprocket when they are broken through. Drain your finals and look for metal.

 

[darinray]

Oh yeah... both aftermarket and I have OEM. The inner hubs are a different story and are from Komatsu though. With the work you had done I'm sure you won't have to bother with that again thank goodness.

Darin

 

[Danny B]

Well this is my second attempt to post today. If this shows up twice, please excuse.

I have had my D21 for some time, but little use so far. I hope to work it a little harder this spring.
So I followed someones advice here and cut up some boards for a not tall enough lift. But it helps. Will do oil change later, but followed owners manual for grease job.
Now for some questions. Grease job went pretty well excopt for two zerks.

One is on Angle-tilt frame center pin. Wouldn't take grease. Took zerk out. Grease would flow thru zerk alone. Put small screwdriver in hole. Grease was soft and clean. Put zerk back in. Took a pump or two, then no more. If this joint is full of grease is that what to expect?

Second zerk is more of a problem. It is on Angle-tilt frame support pin(left-side). Grease would flow out around zerk. Took zerk out to find it had been beat up and no longer round. Checked grease in hole with same screwdriver. Apparently this zerk has been a problem for some time. If you have ever used that black Roofing cement in a caulking tube that you get at Wal-Mart and let it set up about half way, that is about the color and consistency of the grease in the hole. I was hoping someone has a recipe for some magic soup that would soften that stuff up. Also can anyone tell me what size zerk I need to replace the bad one.

One last comment. Thanks to all you experienced "dirt dudes" that help us new guys out.

 

[keito]

I also haven't had much time on mine do to the weather. As soon as it get's better I am going to change my fluids also. What kinda structure did you build to get under the machine. How high do I need to go?

 

[Danny B]

I had 2 old boards that were here on the farm when I bought it. They must be 3in by 12 in. Something like that. They were long enough to cut into four pieces the length of the tracks. I stacked two on each side on a concrete slab. Worked for me. I'm not a very big person. So works for me. A fellow that has to get his pants at a big and tall store might be a little cramped.
I had another question I forgot to add last night. When I took the plates off under the dozer, I found two plates. A larger one had a shaft and two u-jounts with zerks on them. My owners manual didn't show them. Explaination?

 

[Frank Dozer]

Komatsu D21A-5 3 Point Hitch

I want to add a 3 point hitch to my dozer. I have the 3 pth arms from a newer John Deere tractor. I was thinking I could fabricate a bracket to mount in place of the factory drift pin hitch, mount the arms on it so as to mimic factory 3 point hitch and then mount a winch up high on the ROPS. Use the winch with a lanyard for up and down so I can use my Landscape rake on my old logging roads to get a clean sweep. What do you guys think? Any better ideas?

 

[CIty Lad]

Need ROPS Info for D@!A-7

ROPS canopy for it are sold here for around $1,200, could one just had added it after import?

I would be interested in your source for a ROPS at arouond $1200. Who could I contact?

 

[GuglioLS]

Komatsu D21A-5 3 Point Hitch

Hi all, Larry here, this is my first post so I hope to get it right. I read every single post on every single page in this section for the Komatsu D20, 21 and similar. I learned allot and hope to share some of my experiences and dozer add-ons, modifications and maintenance for your entertainment and enjoyment. I saw a couple of references with links to other forums where I posted about my Komatsu D20 A-6, so I thought it might be good to join this forum to learn and contribute to the best of my ability.

I want to add a 3 point hitch to my dozer. I have the 3 pth arms from a newer John Deere tractor. I was thinking I could fabricate a bracket to mount in place of the factory drift pin hitch, mount the arms on it so as to mimic factory 3 point hitch and then mount a winch up high on the ROPS. Use the winch with a lanyard for up and down so I can use my Landscape rake on my old logging roads to get a clean sweep. What do you guys think? Any better ideas?

Hey Frank Dozer,
A TPH on your dozer sure would come in handy. I would like to do the same someday. I have a TPH backhoe hooked up to one of my tractors and am considering one day connecting it to my little Komatsu D20A-6. So when you work out all the details please post some pics so we can check it out. Your idea of using a winch to raise and lower it seems like it should work. You might also consider tapping into the hydraulic system, add a control valve (with a float position) to actuate a hydraulic cylinder so as to get down pressure. With that setup your rake will work great (using the float position on the valve), as well as someday being able to fabricate a ripper, that is if you would have a need for a ripper.

Tapping into the hydraulics and adding a valve is not that difficult. I did just that so I could use my dozer to pull a home made hydraulic dump trailer. It's use for hauling fill dirt up my logging road and to haul firewood on the way back down.

Once I reach the level where I am allowed to post some pic's I will be happy to share them so you can check it out.

Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

When draining oil from the engine crank or from the main wet drive clutch. To get under the dozer, I drive it up on two rail road ties. Raise the blade, then align the RR ties in front of the tracks, push the RR ties up against the track shoes, then crawl up the RR ties. Doing that is safe and gives you plenty of room to get underneath for service.

When my dozer is not in use, I leave it parked up on top of the RR ties to keep the tracks from freezing or sinking into the ground. It also helps reduce rusting on the tack shoes and track rollers.

Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

I've had my D20A-6 for just about two years now. when I first got it, I picked up a operation and maintenance manual from SSB tractor. I was surprised to see that a multi viscosity motor oil was specified for the main hydraulics reservoir.

Engine-----------------8 liters 15W40
Clutch case---------- 6 liters 10W
Transmission case 16.5 liters 30W
Hydraulic reservoir 33 liters 15W40
Final drive (Steering clutches) Left & right 12 liters ea (24 total)10W

However, when I changed out the hydraulic fluid, I used UTF (Universal tractor Fluid) from Sam's club. I use that fluid for the hydraulics in all my tractors with no ill effects. Does anyone really know why Komatsu would specify a multi viscosity motor oil in a hydraulic system? Seems strange to me. The D20 has a standard positive displacement gear pump, nothing special about the valve, cylinders or hoses, so I do not see why not use real hydraulic fluid ,so I did and so far so good.

Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

A few posts back I mentioned installing a hydraulic valve on my D20A-6. Here are a few pic's of that and the dump trailer:

I usually post click-able thumbnail images, for some reason the normal HTML code does not work on this forum like it does on most other forums. Oh Well :beatsme

Larry

 

[Danny B]

Some time back (looked but couldn't find) someone posted they had changed the EOM type batteries for standard size batteries. I need to do that also. I have one bad battery and one weak. I did a little research to find EOM batteries. One local parts store was willing to do the reasearch to find them. Would have to order. When I asked what the price would be, he asked if I was setting down, had oxygen close by and if the wife was home. When he said they were $158.00 each, it didn't take long to decide not to go that route. What I need to know now is what standard american batteries have some of you folks used? I other words what will fit, and provide the cranking amps needed required.

 

[darinray]

Hello Larry,

I've enjoyed your posts that you've posted on other forums as well but want to clarify something...

You mentioned about 10W oil in the steering clutches?? Did you change yours over to wet type clutches?

Darin

 

[darinray]

Danny I actually change the batteries to Napa 5051 and have yet after 8 years had any trouble with any of the machine starting in Winter. With 2 batteries and these little 40 hp motors they don't need huge CCA's per battery. Hope this helps.

Darin

 

[GuglioLS]

Hello Larry,

I've enjoyed your posts that you've posted on other forums as well but want to clarify something...

You mentioned about 10W oil in the steering clutches?? Did you change yours over to wet type clutches?

Darin

Hi Darin,

Sorry My Bad...
My D20A has dry steering clutches. My previous post should be corrected to read:
Final drives (Left & Right) 12 liters ea (24 total)10W

It's my understanding that the final drive is what houses the Ring & Pinion gears to drive the rear sprockets. Is that correct? There are drain plugs at the bottom of the rear final drive housings, and a fill plug at the 9 O'Clock on the left and one at 3 O'Clock on the right. Is there a way to convert the D20 to wet steering clutches? Man that sure would be great if it could because that would solve one of the biggest nuisances with these dozer's. (Sticking steering clutches and breaks). I try to run my dozer around for an hour at least every two weeks to keep the clutches and breaks from rusting and sticking together, plus it keeps the battery charged. This seems work well, especialy during the winter months.

Larry

 

[darinray]

Oh ok. I was just wanting to make sure you didn't. Actually my shop manual states that 10W for up to 50 F and from 32 F and up it should use 30W. Shoot in some of the manuals it has 15w-40 and think tha would be the better oil actually because you would be covering the cold startups with a 15w and then 40 when warmed up. Oh well I guess it's just a preference.

Actually I would think all you would have to do to covert to oil bath clutches is have the steering clutches relined with wet material and also the brake band lined with wet friction material as well. Dand sometimes I get these dozers in and the machine tried to convert itself by having a bad bevel gear seal leak or steering clutch oil leak filling the clutch cases. Of course then all the guts have to get replaced and fixed.

I wouldn't be surprised to read you changing yours to wet system with all the great work you've done already on your machine. Keep us posted and AM SURE people will learn from what you have done.

Darin

 

[GuglioLS]

Hey Darin,

I see your in equipment and parts sales, I suppose you have seen a few of these D20's in for service over the years? Some day I will have to replace the steering clutches, so I will be sure to get your advice when the time comes. Best I can figure to do that is remove the back plate, batteries, seat, seat plate, then remove all the linkages, and hydraulic pipes. Then remove the steering case covers to gain access. Seems like it would be tight getting in there through the top to remove the clutches. But I suppose there really is no other way.

Larry

 

[Frank Dozer]

Dozer Valve.....

Hi Larry, Your pictures explain a lot. Do you have any of where I tap in to the dozers lines and what valve do you use. Actually, I'd rather do the 3pth with hydraulics rather than a winch. It's stronger and uses up less space in the back. I'd probably still get a winch of about 10k to 12k in case I got stuck. Also, Could you send me close up pictures of your ROPS along with steel thicknesses and dimensions. I have a stock canopy on it now and before I venture in the woods, I'd like more protection from falling widow makers. You can Private message me if you'd like. Thanks, Frank

A few posts back I mentioned installing a hydraulic valve on my D20A-6. Here are a few pic's of that and the dump trailer:

I usually post click-able thumbnail images, for some reason the normal HTML code does not work on this forum like it does on most other forums. Oh Well :beatsme

Larry