White-GMC 94’ STC 330 N14

[Spud_Monkey]

Like to know the story behind these pictures. Never knew one could break a cross member snap or break two drive shafts at once and manage to destroy a set of leaf springs on one axle. That’s what all has been replaced or welded on this semi I have noticed being under the rig.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Got the 3rd members in just waiting on pinion seals and u joints to come in. The last picture is in reply to

Remove the snap ring and bearing from the output shaft port in rear of front housing, install drive unit then install bearing, snap ring and seal. Don't try and shove thru-shaft through bearing.

That was fun getting the bearings back in the cage but with some red grease I glued them in. The axle shafts flanges were of different sizes so I put the old axle shafts back in and all is sealed, I now have 4:11 gearing wehooo. Now on to pulling the PTO and hydraulic motor off transmission cause transmission is next.

 

[Truck Shop]

It's really not that unusual to find broken welded up crossmembers on older trucks.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

It's really not that unusual to find broken welded up crossmembers on older trucks.

Maybe that's what snapped the ring gear tooth off, whenever it all broke loose.

 

[DMiller]

Shock loading can happen any time have wheel slip. Icy roads is when I used to get a considerable amount of damaged differential work. Power Divider sections on the old Rockwells(SQ and SLHDs), side gears and sheared shafts on Eatons, sheared ring rivets or destroyed bearing on the IHC diffs, exploded two speed spools and axles, nearly every winter would be a month of third members!!! At Union Electric Detroit Locker assemblies were guaranteed axe replacements and housing cleanings for exploded metal.

Freightliner and Corn Queens in the 70s/80s were horrid for busted cross members or frame gussets.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Got the transmission out and will say the jack and it's modification didn't work. Weight of the transmission pushed the plate hard enough to snap the bolt holding it through the plate (1/4 inch plate), guess I should of welded it. Tried using how the jack was made instead of fully modifying it as needed and almost cost a broken arm or death, heed this warning.
Was pulling it with ratchet strap attached to cross member, jack was holding not a problem but when the input shaft came loose all hell came loose. No pictures but will post something of this whole escapade later of either or of what is going on for update.

 

[colson04]

Got the transmission out and will say the jack and it's modification didn't work. Weight of the transmission pushed the plate hard enough to snap the bolt holding it through the plate (1/4 inch plate), guess I should of welded it. Tried using how the jack was made instead of fully modifying it as needed and almost cost a broken arm or death, heed this warning.
Was pulling it with ratchet strap attached to cross member, jack was holding not a problem but when the input shaft came loose all hell came loose. No pictures but will post something of this whole escapade later of either or of what is going on for update.

Man, glad you didn't get hurt or worse.

 

[Truck Shop]

Your dealing with close to 600 lbs with 9 and 10 speed models about 780 lbs with a 13 speed.
I know of a fellow who only has one hand. Must be careful. You can't get away fast enough.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Man, glad you didn't get hurt or worse.

Thanks, you and me both. I thought something was going to happen when that input shaft left the clutch just didn't know what and surely didn't want to be near when it did.

Your dealing with close to 600 lbs with 9 and 10 speed models about 780 lbs with a 13 speed.
I know of a fellow who only has one hand. Must be careful. You can't get away fast enough.

Time to hook up the welding machine as I hate having to, (very time consuming) and go mad scientist on this welding fabricating to hold the next one going in better. Not going to have 583 lbs drop on me or whatever next one weighs.

 

[Truck Shop]

If you install with clutch mounted on transmission it's 733 lbs.

 

[DMiller]

Ass end of the trannies are the Heavy spot, all the clutches and extra casing. Needs to be about 60/40 or 65/35 Back end MORE on the jack.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Here is what it looks on the inside. Not much to be seen but the synchros bounce around as I spin the output shaft and the output shaft moves 3/8 to 1/2in in and out. Chipped tooth in the rear too. I put a quarter of a inch allen key to give references. The other transmission going in doesn’t move at all in that regards. Guess I now know why it was knocking, knocking on heavens door of death that is.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Ass end of the trannies are the Heavy spot, all the clutches and extra casing. Needs to be about 60/40 or 65/35 Back end MORE on the jack.

Thanks I will incorporate that into my design. Pulling bell houses off right now, new transmission/engine mounts will be in on Tuesday. Got polyurethane ones instead of the old fashion rubber ones.

 

[DMiller]

Good choice to pull it.

 

[Truck Shop]

Output shaft support bearings are toast, which is unusual. A possibility that somewhere in that transmissions history the rear section had been into and the spacer between the output
support bearing was left out. The chipped tooth on the auxiliary drive gear is uncommon also, I would suspect the rear main shaft support bearing has some major play. The front
sliding clutch for third/seventh-forth/eighth has seen some major miles. The usual thing to cause output bearings to go bad is a loose yoke nut but even then it takes a bunch.

 

[DMiller]

Looking at the synchro end of that chipped gear, it passed something as all have little disruptions along the face. I agree on a bad Rear Section build and install.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Output shaft support bearings are toast, which is unusual. A possibility that somewhere in that transmissions history the rear section had been into and the spacer between the output
support bearing was left out. The chipped tooth on the auxiliary drive gear is uncommon also, I would suspect the rear main shaft support bearing has some major play. The front
sliding clutch for third/seventh-forth/eighth has seen some major miles. The usual thing to cause output bearings to go bad is a loose yoke nut but even then it takes a bunch.

Looking at the synchro end of that chipped gear, it passed something as all have little disruptions along the face. I agree on a bad Rear Section build and install.

I would have to agree with both of you as the neighbor who gave me the Peterbilt was scratching his head on the problem as he has been in few of these transmissions and seems as such with questions he asks, ideas he gives and tools he has. Would this website be worth of giving me the history of the rig?
https://bigrigvin.com/
I'm up for an adventure when I get all this back together, I will rip the rear section off to find out the problem and post pictures.

 

[Truck Shop]

Probably not, but who knows either. With older equipment it's just expected.

 

[crane operator]

I think the vin search would be a waste of $$. Its not going to tell you anything you don't already know.

The trans has some wear. The frame cross members have fatigue cracked and been repaired. Its broken a driveline or two in its life. And lost a tooth on a third member. Its bounced a million plus miles.

As truck shop said -

With older equipment it's just expected.

Fix it, or sell it and find something different to fix. Or make payments on newer stuff.

Also- used transmission jacks aren't that expensive. New ones aren't really either. I've got a ancient walker that will probably last forever, and it works just like the new ones.

 

[Truck Shop]

One time only have I seen where the output shaft race has broken the collar.