The JLG 40F Boom Lift Dilemma

[willie59]

It's been a long time since I've been around a 40F, but seems I recall the steering bypass valve between engine and the frame that boom is mounted on, has a black push/pull knob on it. But since cylinder is already disconnected and you need to roll, you could get in the platform, operate the steering, and retract the steer cylinder out of the way to accomplish mission.

As for towing, 20 miles is way pushing what JLG designed towing for. Not saying it can't be done, I don't know. What I can tell you is yes...low speed towing only. The reason being is that the disconnect only disconnects the planetary drive hub from the drive motor/brake unit. But when you're towing is this state, the gears/carriers in the planetary hub are still rotating, and they're not designed for high speed operation. Tow too fast and you can damage or grenade the planetary hub.

One option would be drain oil from planetary hubs, remove hub cover, and remove the planet gear carrier. Re-install hub cover and fill with oil. If you do this you would only be rotating the bearings in the hub, no danger doing that. Of course, can't address how the machine would react to higher tow speed as I have never gone there.

 

[Grovecomm]

Thanks Willie. Sounds like a flatbed tow truck is a lot less risky and maybe cheaper than damage I would cause. Engine is currently seized and aux emergency pump didn't want to move the steering cylinder. I guess I'll be learning all about these things in my future. I'll be asking a lot of questions too unless I send it to the scrap yard.

 

[OFF]

Thanks Willie. Sounds like a flatbed tow truck is a lot less risky and maybe cheaper than damage I would cause. Engine is currently seized and aux emergency pump didn't want to move the steering cylinder. I guess I'll be learning all about these things in my future. I'll be asking a lot of questions too unless I send it to the scrap yard.

another idea for you, check what the capacity of a car dolly is. Maybe you could rent one, put the drive wheels on the dolly, your steering would be locked with the cylinder hooked up again.....away you go at what ever speed you like. No matter how you do it, it'll be an adventure.

By the way, I've never seen a 40F with a steering cylinder arrangement like yours has. The ones I've seen all had the cylinder mounted parallel to the steer axle. Not sure if yours is very early or very late production. Not mid stream, that's for sure.

Edit:
just looked at the new pictures you put up. Very early production.

 

[RSIGuy]

Thanks very much Willie. That is the first I heard about the disconnect caps. Since this apparently disconnects the wheels from the gearing and hydraulics, am I still limited to 10 MPH? The steering cylinder was disconected from the tie rods by the previous owner so they could move it around on the lot, but the cylinder is extended and in the way for towing, so I still need to retract it. I assume that once I find the bypass control I'll be able to push it in with a bit of effort??? I'm going to post a pic of my engine compartment in hopes you point out the bypass valve for me. Thanks.

View attachment 101832

I do not see your valve in the picture, mine is located in that open space just to the left of the oil breather and is a screw type knob. Yours is different from my 1976 in a lot of ways and it appears (correct me if I'm wrong Guru's of the 40F) you have Bertea valves and all our electrical strips are in a much to small box where yours are mounted.

 

[OFF]

I've seen a lot of those steer/float valves on the opposite side of the machine too. Between the engine and the hydraulic tank.

I'm starting to think JLG didn't build 2 machines the same in those early (F series) days.

 

[Grovecomm]

That is the idea I was getting too. The manuals are close, but nothing seems to be the same.

Did you see the picture I posted of the pulley/sheave? I don't know what it's for.

 

[OFF]

That is the idea I was getting too. The manuals are close, but nothing seems to be the same.

Did you see the picture I posted of the pulley/sheave? I don't know what it's for.

Yes, I saw the picture with the pulley. I've never seen that on any other JLG before. And to make it even stranger there seems to be a slot in the chassis cover that lines up to it. Maybe a winch option? Or a winch was installed at some time? A winch would certainly be usefull on a 2wd manlift.



any extra/unexplained toggle switches or controllers in the basket that might have operated a hydraulic winch?

 

[Grovecomm]

Do I remember someone here speaking about the oil filter for the Wisconsin engine? I'm thinking someone said a normal style oil filter would fit, but that it's supposed to have some kind of a special, rather unusual oil filter? My old machine came with a Hastings #424. Is that proper?

 

[OFF]

Do I remember someone here speaking about the oil filter for the Wisconsin engine? I'm thinking someone said a normal style oil filter would fit, but that it's supposed to have some kind of a special, rather unusual oil filter? My old machine came with a Hastings #424. Is that proper?

The Hastings 424/Wix 51106 is the proper filter for that machine. Kind of an odd-ball thing and quite expensive. I have seen Wisconsin engines the same model in other applications (like pumps and farm equipment) that use a normal spin-on however. Either way, it's not a "full Flow" filter system. It's just a by-pass filter. Meaning, all the oil that leaves the oil pump does not go through a filter. Only one small stream/passage is filtered. 1940's technology at it's best.
You might be able to find a spin-on filter adapter at a farm equipment wrecking yard. Old Swathers used that engine.

 

[Grovecomm]

Thanks OFF. That Hastings 424 "appears" to be a standard looking, spin-on filter. I did not see any other attachment method, but I just looked quickly. You're saying it does not thread-on like a modern oil filter????

 

[OFF]

Thanks OFF. That Hastings 424 "appears" to be a standard looking, spin-on filter. I did not see any other attachment method, but I just looked quickly. You're saying it does not thread-on like a modern oil filter????

It may look normal on the outside but it's got external threads on it much like the threads on a mason jar (canning jar) rather than threads in the center. Retail on a Wix 51106 or a NAPA 1106 is about $34 for some crazy reason. My price is about $10.50 when I get common spin-on filters for $3 to $5 normally. Pricey for what it is.

 

[RSIGuy]

I have a Napa 7011 (spin on ) on mine but I'm not sure it is correct as I've had to tighten it with a filter wrench and it still seeps a little bit. I'm going to check with our local implement store and see if the carry the two OFF stated above to see if they work better. Do you know which Wisconsin model you have, mine is a VH4D.

 

[OFF]

I have a Napa 7011 (spin on ) on mine but I'm not sure it is correct as I've had to tighten it with a filter wrench and it still seeps a little bit. I'm going to check with our local implement store and see if the carry the two OFF stated above to see if they work better. Do you know which Wisconsin model you have, mine is a VH4D.

I looked up the NAPA 7011, looks like the same type of filter as a 1106 and it's cheaper.

 

[RSIGuy]

Thanks for verification, I will check on the 1106 at Napa see what they get for them here.

 

[RSIGuy]

OFF, are the threads all universal? If so I would be wasting my time looking at others I suppose.

 

[Grovecomm]

Looks like a 4D

 

[Grovecomm]

I just talked to my parts man at Bumper to Bumper. He has a WIX 57011 (Napa 7011). He says is has that reverse, mason jar type of thread. It's about $26 list and he will sell it for $16.

 

[RSIGuy]

Yes, it's a 4D. If yours is still running you're in luck because they seem pretty tough. Mine has been rebuilt once and she's using oil and blowing a little back out the breather/filler but purrs like a kitty.
I'm going to watch for a better one to replace or rebuild while mine is still working ok. All my wiring and switches are new now so not much to go wrong. Glad the filter worked out.

 

[Grovecomm]

The motor on mine was seized. After soaking the cylinders in oil for a week, it still wouldn't budge. I pulled the heads off and water poured out. I tried to tap the pistons free, replaced the heads and then filled each cylinder completely full of WD-40. A day later, I actually got the crank to move a bit with a wrench. I slowly worked it back a forth and it freed right up. Now with the plugs removed (no compression) I can move the crank with my little finger.

Next problem. When I pulled the heads off, one of the 34 bolts broke and I have to get that out. One side had 2 head gaskets on it, which tells me the something is warped or the head was surface ground too far to allow proper clearances.

I haven't even looked for proper valve operation yet and the thousand other things after that. All my switches/wiring is original, so I have a long way to go.

 

[RSIGuy]

Sounds like it you may as well rebuild it since its half way apart, as long as the bones on the lift are solid but it's probably pretty hard to know until you put some power to it. It will be interesting to follow along. Did you pin down a build date?
OFF found out mine was built in 1976, yours looks quite a bit different maybe older. They built a tough machine though mine appears to have all the original hydraulics except for 1 or 2 lines.