I'm still having trouble with my 40F. Sometimes it works great and then out of the blue it starts acting up. When I move the controller to go up it keeps going down, when I move it to down it still goes down and other times it does just the opposite and won't let me down. The forward and reverse acts up the same way or doesn't move at all. Then all of a sudden it will all work fine for several days. Warmer temperatures seem to help. Any body have any thoughts?
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The JLG 40F Boom Lift Dilemma
- Thread starter od1
- Start date
willie59
Administrator
Does it have Bertea proportional valves?
I don't know for sure. How do I tell. I believe it has Racine valves.
I did searching until I came across this thread...
I purchased this lift for $200, it runs, drives, lifts and extends....it needs both cylinders rebuilt, it needs joysticks and controls
I am unsure of what model I have or even the max working height
I sifted through roughly 20pgs of this thread and figured this was the place to ask questions.
I need to know what controllers my lift should have, if there is a foot pedal, what cylinder packings, where to find serial number for unit, etc
I have a diesel Snorkelift TB A60 that runs awesome... I currently have the joysticks being rebuilt, a new pedal, full decal package including control box for ground/plateform...
The 60' is much too large for the work that I do so I'm repairing it for resale and want to put some of the money into repairing my smaller JLG that's in the photos.
OFF
Senior Member
Welcome Kurtdirt1. That's a very nice looking machine you have there. Looks like a JLG model 40F alright. OMG.........what a gem!
Since they were able to replace the controllers with toggle switches and the machine still operates, I'm thinking it must have had the Cutler/Hammer controllers originally. And chance of getting some "under the hood"
pictures to confirm that?
Since they were able to replace the controllers with toggle switches and the machine still operates, I'm thinking it must have had the Cutler/Hammer controllers originally. And chance of getting some "under the hood"
pictures to confirm that?
OFF
Senior Member
Ken, looking back through this thread I see you confirmed you have Racine controllers so that means for sure you have Racine valves. First thing I would do is check your output right at the controllers and make sure they are good before you dig into anything else. The terminals on the controller you want to hit are labeled "C3" & "+1" . You should see a smooth increase/decrease in voltage as you move the controller handle in either direction. No jumping around or spikes. That's step #1.
willie59
Administrator
Thanks for looking that up OFF. The reason I asked if it had Bertea valves was he mentioned it seems to operate better when it's warm. Bertea valves were really picky about needing thin viscosity oil and if someone used a thick viscosity oil it would really mess with them until it gets warm. Racine valve didn't suffer from this problem like Bertea valves did.
dlindbis
Member
Hi Everyone. Could really use some help. Proud owner of a 40F that has seen better days, and has its share of issues. I really need a copy of the manuals, covering both mechanical and electrical systems. It needs some TLC, and its too hard to just chase stuff around. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! 
dlindbis
Member
The latest issue that has come to light is the rod seal on the lift cylinder for the boom. It started leaking pretty good now, so it needs to be replaced. How difficult is it to removed the cylinder, and are the seals available?
OFF
Senior Member
The reason I asked if it had Bertea valves was he mentioned it seems to operate better when it's warm. Bertea valves were really picky about needing thin viscosity oil and if someone used a thick viscosity oil it would really mess with them until it gets warm. Racine valve didn't suffer from this problem like Bertea valves did.
a very valid observation! I never approach a Bertea equipped machine without a iron cross in one hand, and a flask of holy water in the other hand.........they are just nasty.
OFF
Senior Member
Welcome dlindbis! Nice looking machine you've got there. I can help you out with the manuals. You may need a few more posts under your belt to activate the "private message" feature on this site. Once you do, message me your email and I'll send you the 40F manual set on PDF.
Best way to get that lift cylinder out would be to set the basket down on top of that barn in the background to support the boom. Top pin is pretty straight forward, the bottom pin is held in place by two C-clamps on studs. The nuts holding these C-clamps are on the bottom side of the turntable.
If you look up the number of the lift cylinder seal kit in the parts manual (once you get it) you may be able to inter-change the number to a company that sells after-market forklift & manlift parts called "Total Source". You may get lucky. Other than that, it's off to your favorite hydraulic cylinder repair shop.
willie59
Administrator
That's a good looking 40F!
It amazes me just how many of these machines are still out there and operating. I'd wager that JLG would love to obsolete these machines, just because they are so old, but it seems they, well, John L Grove, created something that's determined to live forever.
It amazes me just how many of these machines are still out there and operating. I'd wager that JLG would love to obsolete these machines, just because they are so old, but it seems they, well, John L Grove, created something that's determined to live forever.
dbris
Active Member
Mine does this with the swing and I've got it caught in a corner before - frustrating! The next time it happens, try holding the control in the direction you want to go, and then just "bump" one of the other proportional controls. That usually makes mine work for the rest of the session. I'm blaming that and other intermittent issues on low voltage to the basket which I'm trying to chase down. Racine valves by the way.
dlindbis
Member
Thanks. That will help a bunch, and thanks also for the tip. I'm still thinking it wont be a fun job. I'm sure it is very heavy, and am concerned about getting the ring off the head, and being able to remove the nut for the piston, to get the head assy off. Id imagine it has some major torque on it. I do have access to a torque multiplier, so I guess time will tell.
OFF
Senior Member
The ring is going to be the tough one. It's been on there sitting in the rain for 30 years. Might take some major heat to break it loose. Piston nut is easy.......if you have a 1" drive impact
And yes, the cylinder is very heavy.
And yes, the cylinder is very heavy.
dlindbis
Member
Thanks willie59. It wasn't too badly abused. It's just suffering from many years of use, and some neglect of maintenance. The hour meter went out around 4000 hrs, and Id guess it has twice that. From what I can tell, it was a painting rig much if not all of its life. It has more than its share of wiring quirks, which I hope to eventually remedy. It has been super handy around the farmstead. Hard to believe everyone doesn't have one. I know Ive put 100's of gallons of fuel through it already myself.
dlindbis
Member
The ring is going to be the tough one. It's been on there sitting in the rain for 30 years. Might take some major heat to break it loose. Piston nut is easy.......if you have a 1" drive impact
And yes, the cylinder is very heavy.
And in a tight spot, tucked under that boom. I will have to figure out how to get a cherry picker or something similar in there, while having it out in the yard with the boom up. No concrete handy by any of the buildings.
Troy anderson
Member
any chance you would still have a wiring diagram for a 60. My control panel has a 3 position switch to steer left and right there are 2 diodes on switch and I need to know which direction they are suppose to go
OFF
Senior Member
Hi Troy,
I have a 60F Racine basket diagram on my computer. It doesn't show any diodes in the steer circuit though. Any idea what kind of controllers you have?
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