Takeuchi TL130 Replacing the Hydraulic Suction Strainer - in the tank filter

[PeterG]

When I remove the radiator, before I remove the Suction strainer do I need to drain all the hydraulic fluid from the tank? The owners manual says to only remove the tank cap. On the TL130, the "in the tank filter" is on the bottom and not on top like some units. If I do need to drain the tank, does anyone know how many gallons comes out?

 

[azvacs]

When I remove the radiator, before I remove the Suction strainer do I need to drain all the hydraulic fluid from the tank? The owners manual says to only remove the tank cap. On the TL130, the "in the tank filter" is on the bottom and not on top like some units. If I do need to drain the tank, does anyone know how many gallons comes out?

View attachment 279311

Yes, you need to drian it first or all your hydralic fluid will dump out FAST. When full it is about 10 gallons

 

[PeterG]

Thanks for replying! I actually called Takeuchi USA to confirm a few days ago and I just bought a 15 gallon 58 qt plastic oil drain pan on wheels from Napa. Should I also replace the two #12 O rings as seen in the above parts diagram? I have the strainer but it does not come with them.

 

[Simon C]

Would not want to change out after refilling and find out that the old O-Rings have lost a little bit of thickness and are weeping, cause then I would start crying. Would not be funny.
If they are perfect under a good magnifying light I might chance if they were many days out, but otherwise they would be new.
Caterpillar has a tapered cone to measure O-Rings. with the thickness being measured also that might help if Takeuchi can't readily supply.
Simon C

 

[PeterG]

Do you know by chance that to remove the suction strainer if I will need a 2.5" wrench, or does it usually remove easily? Also, once everything is put back together, do I need to bleed the system with the pump. See diagram. I will only be replacing the tank 10 gallons of fluid. I assume 5 gallons will remain in the system.

 

[PeterG]

Image of Suction Strainer

 

[PeterG]

Usually I just close the cap and let idle, extend cylinders etc.

 

[Simon C]

If pump wont pick up put 2 PSI into tank with blow gun and rag sealing in pressure while someone pulls back on a function.
Thats how I start them after emptying a tank. If pilot pump does not pick up in 10-15 seconds with air pushing I disconnect a line from pilot pump output to bleed the pilot pump.
Few tricks I have used if it does not work instantly before starving a pump.
Simon C

 

[azvacs]

I would definitely replace the o-rings. And you may lose additional fluid from the suction hose. It at the lowest level and fluid will most likely flow that direction. Try lifting the hose up as high as you can after disconnecting it. I would bleed it at the plug to insure pump doesn’t run dry. I have the same unit and have gone through all of that

 

[John C.]

I'd use the blow gun method but also crack fittings on the pump loose and wait for oil to flow out of them before starting up the engine. Once I have fluid coming out I'll tighten things back up and start the engine at low idle if possible. I might crack a fitting on two loose after the engine is running to make sure the air is out as much as possible.

 

[heymccall]

I've had the pleasure of getting a TL150 with a defective weld seam on the bottom. Takeuchi was kind enough to send another, but, since I was out of warranty, I had to change it (or pay a dealer).
Slip joint pliers (big channel locks) was all I used on the strainer.
I've never had to bleed the air. But, the book can't be wrong.
I've gotta ask. Why are you changing the strainer? If it's for failure contamination removal, you should be able to reach in and wipe the bottom.

As for the drain, I just use a 1-5/8 socket on a 3/4 drive ratchet. Sometimes, I swear, the factory glues the threads (they don't).

 

[TVA]

Do you know by chance that to remove the suction strainer if I will need a 2.5" wrench, or does it usually remove easily? Also, once everything is put back together, do I need to bleed the system with the pump. See diagram. I will only be replacing the tank 10 gallons of fluid. I assume 5 gallons will remain in the system.

View attachment 280681

That oil will shoot out right away, unless you also disassemble the charge filter ( mounted to the wall on the left side underneath the seat) - in that case I would disable the fuel, and crank the engine until the oil will show up at the rear pumps case drain port - shown on the picture.

 

[rbrown225]

Something to think about is removing the suction strainer. It only stops large material that shouldn't get into the tank anyway. Here is a couple of links regarding them. https://www.hydraulicsupermarket.com/blog/all/suction-strainers-good-or-evil/
https://www.hydraulicsupermarket.com/blog/all/the-truth-about-hydraulic-suction-strainers/

 

[PeterG]

The machine is a 2005. I bought it with 2000 hours on it. Now after several years it has 2,800 hours. I decided to be proactive and change the hydraulic filters since I have never done that, and have no idea when it was last done. I did change the line filter so far which I had to remove the whole unit and put in a vise to unscrew. The filter was black in color, but no visible particles. I was then going to replace the Return filter, but I could not remove it. I have now purchased the Takeuchi Filter wrench to remove it. I have the suction strainer but have not installed it yet. I decided in the end to purchase the two O-rings to go around that. I also plan to get the two O-rings for the top and bottom tank cap. Since I have to remove the radiator, I'm thinking about replacing the radiator hoses. I have not inspected them yet, and they may be ok, but they are 18 years old. After reading your tips (thanks guys), I'm super worried about how fast the hydraulic oil will drain out and then bleeding the air which I don't understand real well.

 

[heymccall]

Never had to service a tank strainer on them, but, did have one out, due to defective weld on tank. Unless you're chasing a component failure, I certainly wouldn't bother changing it.
As for radiator hoses, never changed one yet. Water pump and heater valve, yes.
Mind you, I only have 2 TL150 machines, and traded the third, and all are over 10k hours.

 

[PeterG]

Interesting, as the manual says every 1000 hours to change the strainer. United rental owned the machine for to close to 1900 hours before it went to auction and a dealer. I had some records from united Rental that they had rebuilt the top end of the motor. Engine runs great. Don't know if United Rentals had ever serviced the hydraulic system. During my time with the machine, we have busted a big hydraulic line, so a lot of hydraulic fluid (Diesel engine oil) has been added. I do have an issue with the left track not wanting to go backwards upon start up, and then working fine after warming up, but I have not assumed the strainer would fix that. The radiator hoses are not expensive, but I'm waiting to see what everyone says. I'm just a poor Contractor with an old machine that is a great operator but a fair mechanic. I do have three Takeuchi Mini Excavators - TB016, TB240, TB153fr.