Tag trailer brakes - Electric vs Air

[Andy1845c]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the replys. Seems like the consensus is a bit like I was thinking - air has some advantages if you are plumbed and licensed and electric is perfectly acceptable if well maintained.

My truck is plumbed and I have a class A CDL so I think I will stick with looking for air.

My truck is only an F800 ford with a 5.9 cummins and a 9 speed eaton in it. So I don't have a lot of muscle. Licensed at 33k.

A 20 ton tag is what I am kinda eyeing but in reality I would like to eventually get a 10-15k# mini ex and that would be the heaviest thing I would likely move with that truck. That plus the weight of the trailer is going to be my limit. Even at that I doubt i'll be pulling down the interstate.... Mostly I see using it for things a smaller trailer could do fine but would like the ability to safely move something heavier. Less worried about the lack of engine and more worried I can control and stop the thing. Can always put it on a bigger truck.

This is just for personal/hobby use so I am kinda hoping to find something cheaper that I can fix up. I've found a few like that but all have been electric brakes. I have a feeling I could spend quite a bit just doing brakes on one.

 

[Truck Shop]

I have a feeling I could spend quite a bit just doing brakes on one.

That's a big possibility.

 

[skyking1]

You do get what you pay for.
For example, I have a 20 ton tilt that is nearing the brake job time, and the shop wants about 3500 for the job due to the inside mounted drums.
It will be needing about the same $$ in tires, due to age.
Now your good deal trailer is +$7000
I need the 20 ton for the JD120.
My 12K that I haul the mini on, it needed brakes. I replaced everything, bearings drums backing plates and a new Prodigy II controller for about $1000
The tires are ~$300 each, for $1200 I get new skins. I replaced 2 on condition.
My advice is buy as much trailer as you need, and not a lot more.
The 12K trailer weighs less than 4000. The 20 ton weighs a bit over 10,000
My truck appreciates NOT having to haul the mini on the 20 ton tilt

In my situation, the 12K trailer was bought new with the 35D mini with the 3500 GMC work truck. It was a tool set.

The 20 ton I found for the company many years ago.
If I did not have the 1 ton, and all I towed with was the air brake truck, It would be nice to have a little heavier trailer and really cool if it could have air brakes.

 

[suladas]

Hilarious @Truck Shop

Respect is not freely given in this life, it is earned. If you think for one second I will show respect to someone who has shown me none you are sadly mistaken.

 

[lantraxco]

If you're hitting the brakes and a light is coming on, that's a problem in the truck, not a issue with the trailer brakes. Could be as simple as a loose wire or loose trailer connector. Electric brakes rely on one wire or else they fail, air brakes rely on one air line or else they can fail. How many are also plumbed illegally without a tractor protection valve? How safe is it if the trailer looses air the truck does too? I'd rather deal with a trailer with no brakes then a truck and trailer with spring brakes applying without any control.

If you were pulling 15k why wasn't it a 60 ton lowboy? That's your problem right there. It's way too much weight for a pickup. You should go look in the mirror, you could have killed a innocent family.

I don't know why you're on such a rant, but I have to tell you that this post makes you look rather foolish. Your first statement is patently incorrect, and then you devolve into an angry tirade. Modern brake systems diagnose all the way to the magnets, so a fault showing in the truck may well be a trailer fault. I prefer air on larger combinations, for smaller setups electric over hydraulic disk is FAR superior to the old electric drums. I do still have a couple 10K tandem axle trailers with straight electric, they're fine as long as you service and adjust them, check the wiring now and then.

 

[suladas]

I don't know why you're on such a rant, but I have to tell you that this post makes you look rather foolish. Your first statement is patently incorrect, and then you devolve into an angry tirade. Modern brake systems diagnose all the way to the magnets, so a fault showing in the truck may well be a trailer fault. I prefer air on larger combinations, for smaller setups electric over hydraulic disk is FAR superior to the old electric drums. I do still have a couple 10K tandem axle trailers with straight electric, they're fine as long as you service and adjust them, check the wiring now and then.

You do realize "Service stabilitrak" has absolutely NOTHING to do with the trailer brakes right? Probably the reason there is also a "Service Trailer Brake System" message too. Likely the reason for the "Service stabilitrak" was because the trailer brakes weren't working and the vehicle was freaking out trying to stop the extra weight.

I was simply responding in the way that a few others here would have, I saved them the time. You do realize anything over 10,000lbs is not safe behind anything other then a 600hp tractor and 60 ton lowboy right? You need to get rid of those electric brake trailers, they are garbage.

 

[lantraxco]

You do realize "Service stabilitrak" has absolutely NOTHING to do with the trailer brakes right? Probably the reason there is also a "Service Trailer Brake System" message too. Likely the reason for the "Service stabilitrak" was because the trailer brakes weren't working and the vehicle was freaking out trying to stop the extra weight.

I was simply responding in the way that a few others here would have, I saved them the time. You do realize anything over 10,000lbs is not safe behind anything other then a 600hp tractor and 60 ton lowboy right? You need to get rid of those electric brake trailers, they are garbage.

I can't tell if you're that angry, or trying to be funny. I've driven 100,000 pound gross rigs with 425hp just fine, on grades that make most sweat, and I've pulled 30,000 pound gross trailers behind diesel dually pickups, legal AND safe, or as safe as any class 8 rig out there on the road. It's a matter of choosing the right tool for the job, nothing more.

 

[Truck Shop]

This right here should be the minimum for moving a weed eater, 600 hp and 60 ton rng is way to small.

 

[Willie B]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the replys. Seems like the consensus is a bit like I was thinking - air has some advantages if you are plumbed and licensed and electric is perfectly acceptable if well maintained.

My truck is plumbed and I have a class A CDL so I think I will stick with looking for air.

My truck is only an F800 ford with a 5.9 cummins and a 9 speed eaton in it. So I don't have a lot of muscle. Licensed at 33k.

A 20 ton tag is what I am kinda eyeing but in reality I would like to eventually get a 10-15k# mini ex and that would be the heaviest thing I would likely move with that truck. That plus the weight of the trailer is going to be my limit. Even at that I doubt i'll be pulling down the interstate.... Mostly I see using it for things a smaller trailer could do fine but would like the ability to safely move something heavier. Less worried about the lack of engine and more worried I can control and stop the thing. Can always put it on a bigger truck.

This is just for personal/hobby use so I am kinda hoping to find something cheaper that I can fix up. I've found a few like that but all have been electric brakes. I have a feeling I could spend quite a bit just doing brakes on one.

I know Eager Beaver once made an 8 tired tandem trailer with air rated at 22000 GTWR. I don't remember what year it was.
Two brothers both owned small excavation businesses One in CT. After he died, his brother hauled everything to VT to sell it. I looked at it thinking of buying, but the cost of setting up for air brakes discouraged me.

 

[digger242j]

Thread closed for Moderator review.

ETA: Review completed.