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Swinging hitch shaft

Deershack

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2009
Messages
15
Location
MN
I hope I can make myself clear. I have a SA Mack dump. The trailer hitch consists of a very heavy plate with the D rings . trailer plug and a channel for a 2" receiver. I curently am using a 2 5/16" ball which I want to change to a pindle type hitch. In doing so I want to buy/make a shaft that will allow me to pull the shaft out and move it side to side to make hook up easier. It's a PITA to get the dump lined up the trailer now.

What I have in mind is a solid shaft, approx. 3-4' long with a hinge about 12-14" from one end. The hinge will have to fit inside the receiver tube. The other end will have a number of holes to allow a pin to be inserted to stop the shaft from being pulled out too far while allowing the hinge to clear the end of the tube. Once the ball/hook is positioned under the hitch and hooked up, the truck is pulled ahead to get the shaft straight and then backed up, thereby sliding the shaft back into the receiver tube with the hinge inside the tube. Retaining pins would be inserted as normal.

The hinge would need to be strong enough to support my 20' tandem trailer with a 1845c SS and implements for the short time required to make the hook up.

Has anyone seen something like this or know where I might get one?

I know there is a commercial hitch of this type made by Schuck. That unit while being expensive, would also mean extensive and expensive cutting and welding of my existing hitch plate
 
Last edited:

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
6,609
Location
LaGrangeville, N.Y.
I've seen something like you're asking for but I don't remember where or the specifics of how it is made.

I would caution you however to find out what the sheer rating is on the 5/8" pin found in 2" receivers and see that it meets your needs. I'm pretty certain that the pintle hitch will have a higher rating than the pin.
 

Deershack

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2009
Messages
15
Location
MN
Steve: Good point about the pin. The pin I am currently using has served for this rig for two years so I think I'm ok on that point. I had thought about replacing it anyway just for general safety sake after being used for the two years.

Thanks for the reply. Wasn't sure I had been able to explain what I was looking for. Glad to hear someone understood it.
 

Deershack

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2009
Messages
15
Location
MN
Hopeing that by adding to this post I will get someone who did not see the original post to respond
 

RonG

Charter Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Messages
1,833
Location
Meriden ct
Occupation
heavy equipment operator
This may not be "well received" heh heh but if your trailer can be seen in your mirrors then you should be hitting the pintle with a 90% success rate or better on your hook ups.If you cannot see it in the mirrors then I would be fabricating some guides such as they use on snowplows ect to see the plow corners or hook up lights if that is the problem.
If you are having an elevation problem like dropping the trailer with a load on the truck then trying to hook up with an empty truck then that will require some additional moves to correct it but if you dropped the trailer and all things being equal you should be able to connect it with a minimum of hassle.
It will take some practice but the secret is to be able to visulize where your trailer is in your mirrors with respect to the side of your truck when you are pulling it in a straight line.Once you have that in your mind then rest assured that that relationship will not ever change as long as you are backing up to it in a straight line and you will make your hookups with very little problems.
The biggest problem that I have is usually some helpful soul will try to guide me in making my hookup and be standing right in the way of the area that I need to see to line up the hitches and complicate things for me.
If you drop the trailers and the ground is not frozen when you drop it then making the hookup will be a simple routine with a little practice.Ron G
 
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