Nige
Senior Member
You'll need a wrench to fit the circled bolt. That is the check valve.
It will look like this when it is removed. You will need #2 (6V-4589 O-Ring) in addition to the 238-0296 Check Valve.
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Suggestions on rough starting? 345BL
- Thread starter Jeremy Whittaker
- Start date
It will look like this when it is removed. You will need #2 (6V-4589 O-Ring) in addition to the 238-0296 Check Valve.
Gary Layton
Well-Known Member
Good luck getting it going. In this video I made it shows how I learned to prime my 320C.
Skip to 3:33 to show the priming and at 8:53 I get it started. It fired right up for a few seconds then died. It took a few more long cranks before it fired up for good. Maybe I should have primed it again when it first died? Or it is copacetic to long crank it like I did?
Jeremy Whittaker
Well-Known Member
Today I put the new valve on and emptied the bottom of the fuel tank. This came out (attached). The gallon container is from my water fuel separator as I replaced it and just drained it in there. The small bottle is from the bottom of the fuel tank. It came out black but there wasn't a lot of this. Caught most of it in the bottle.
I also replaced the valve as it was only $30 and the fuel filter. So starting it up was super rough today. Although I expected it because this happened the last time I replaced the filters. I filled them will diesel prior to installing them. I also pumped the hand primer for about a minute until it felt like it had pressure building up. Not sure if there is a step in missing after replacing the filters.
Here is the startup after replacing valve and filters - https://photos.app.goo.gl/4pBtZS2Sd55SkWdx9
Video of it running right after starting - https://photos.app.goo.gl/nmY45iwFcmrA4Cr2A
Video inside of the fuel tank - https://photos.app.goo.gl/iNVYhuavR2wuT2n79
Looking forward to any insight. Also, how long are you supposed to use this hand primer? I felt resistance so I thought it was primed but it really struggled to start.
I also replaced the valve as it was only $30 and the fuel filter. So starting it up was super rough today. Although I expected it because this happened the last time I replaced the filters. I filled them will diesel prior to installing them. I also pumped the hand primer for about a minute until it felt like it had pressure building up. Not sure if there is a step in missing after replacing the filters.
Here is the startup after replacing valve and filters - https://photos.app.goo.gl/4pBtZS2Sd55SkWdx9
Video of it running right after starting - https://photos.app.goo.gl/nmY45iwFcmrA4Cr2A
Video inside of the fuel tank - https://photos.app.goo.gl/iNVYhuavR2wuT2n79
Looking forward to any insight. Also, how long are you supposed to use this hand primer? I felt resistance so I thought it was primed but it really struggled to start.
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Welder Dave
Senior Member
It can take a lot of pumps sometimes to prime. Fuel tank not gas tank. You're going to talk to somebody at some point and they're going to look at you like you're crazy putting gas in your machine. I'm not familiar enough to know if the bubbles from the return line are normal or not. If they aren't could be a big part of your problem and air is getting in somewhere. Does the machine smoke like that once it's warmed up?
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Jeremy Whittaker
Well-Known Member
Dammit, I even double checked to make sure I didn't mess this up before hitting post!
Jeremy Whittaker
Well-Known Member
Wish I would've saw this prior to today. I didn't realize I had to loosen a nut
I just started pumping it.
skyking1
Senior Member
It is not so much fun by yourself. If you had anyone along to open a fitting, one of you can pump and the other one crack a fitting up high and see clear fuel coming out no bubbles then it is time to tighten that up and go start it.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
The air has to go somewhere.
Jeremy Whittaker
Well-Known Member
Yea... I guess I never gave it much thought. Next time I'll know how to do it. Does anyone know which but I have to crack on this thing to let the air out?
Oh well next time hopefully it fires up without any issues after replacing the valve. If not back to the drawing board.
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skyking1
Senior Member
Sump it every time you go now. After you use it, the fuel sloshes around and the dirt ends up in that low spot, the sump. The dirt and water are there and settle out nicely. Sump before you start up. Everything you take out of there never gets to your filters.
You will get something every time until one day it will be clear.
You will get something every time until one day it will be clear.
Jeremy Whittaker
Well-Known Member
So this black stuff is not the end of the world as long as I keep doing this every time you think it will be fine?
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Just keep draining a little everytime you shut it off or go to start it. It should clear up.
skyking1
Senior Member
Exactly. not the end of the world. Just keep sumping it and one day it will be clear. Then do it on a schedule thereafter.
crane operator
Senior Member
Inside of the fuel tank looks pretty good to me.
As far as the cranking to get running- you probably crank a little longer than what I like to, when its not starting. Extended crank will get the starter hot (hard on starters), I like to count/crank to about only a 15 count at most. Then I stop for at least as long, as I was cranking for, or even longer.
When its cold, the crank and then waiting a little bit, will let the heat from the previous cranking, start to warm up the engine. Then crank again for a little bit. You may need to invest in a good charger or battery cables, if it sits for a long time between uses. You are disconnecting the battery switch, or pulling the cables off when you aren't there?
The smoking before start, just looks like a older engine start up in cold weather.
If you want to make your cold start up's easier, you're going to have to have a block heater and a generator (if you don't have electricity), or tarp it up and portable heaters under it. That's for under 20's, in the teens starting.
If you see colder than 0, then you're going to have also go into blended fuels and such- but I think you said you aren't planning on using it when really cold.
I didn't think the start up was bad at all. Its not going to be like a car, and running on the second or third revolution. Just had to work the air out of the system, and get rolling.
And did you check the antifreeze for freeze protection? Just a good practice every fall before it gets cold.
As far as the cranking to get running- you probably crank a little longer than what I like to, when its not starting. Extended crank will get the starter hot (hard on starters), I like to count/crank to about only a 15 count at most. Then I stop for at least as long, as I was cranking for, or even longer.
When its cold, the crank and then waiting a little bit, will let the heat from the previous cranking, start to warm up the engine. Then crank again for a little bit. You may need to invest in a good charger or battery cables, if it sits for a long time between uses. You are disconnecting the battery switch, or pulling the cables off when you aren't there?
The smoking before start, just looks like a older engine start up in cold weather.
If you want to make your cold start up's easier, you're going to have to have a block heater and a generator (if you don't have electricity), or tarp it up and portable heaters under it. That's for under 20's, in the teens starting.
If you see colder than 0, then you're going to have also go into blended fuels and such- but I think you said you aren't planning on using it when really cold.
I didn't think the start up was bad at all. Its not going to be like a car, and running on the second or third revolution. Just had to work the air out of the system, and get rolling.
And did you check the antifreeze for freeze protection? Just a good practice every fall before it gets cold.
Nige
Senior Member
See the attachment. It's from the O&M Manual. You know it - the one you never read.........
BC Placer gold
Senior Member
“If you want to make your cold start up's easier, you're going to have to have a block heater and a generator (if you don't have electricity), or tarp it up and portable heaters under it. That's for under 20's, in the teens starting.”
Highly recommend an immersion style block heater, way easier on the engine as well. This is the first thing we install on any machine if not already equipped.
Is that a C13? Our Cat C12 has an immersion style oil pan heater as well as block heater; works really good. Maybe available from Cat?
Highly recommend an immersion style block heater, way easier on the engine as well. This is the first thing we install on any machine if not already equipped.
Is that a C13? Our Cat C12 has an immersion style oil pan heater as well as block heater; works really good. Maybe available from Cat?
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How cold was it? How cold had it been overnight (engine and battery temp)? What kind of fuel do you have in it? What elevation?
JD suggests that over 5,000 feet to run #1 only, even 3,000' with cold temps could make some tough starting. If that cranking is at all slow, then things get real tough. I couldn't tell the cranking speed from the sound very well.
JD suggests that over 5,000 feet to run #1 only, even 3,000' with cold temps could make some tough starting. If that cranking is at all slow, then things get real tough. I couldn't tell the cranking speed from the sound very well.
Jeremy Whittaker
Well-Known Member
5200 elevation, high of 50 low of 30. I started it around 10am. This last start isn't too relevant as I'm sure there was a ton of air in the lines because I wasn't properly priming it after I just replaced the filters and valve.
I'm not sure if it was #1 or #2. There was only one option for diesel and I don't remember what it said.
Jeremy Whittaker
Well-Known Member
To my defense it's 222 pages. I made it through all the California proposition 65 warnings and fell asleep.See the attachment. It's from the O&M Manual. You know it - the one you never read.........
skyking1
Senior Member
O & M will have something to say about that elevation.