Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

[darinray]

I have a set of new 20" single bar shoes mounted on re pinned and bushed chains for your machine.. I also have the front idler here in stock as well so yes you can buy them from me if you wish.

 

[kensmith69]

I have a set of new 20" single bar shoes mounted on re pinned and bushed chains for your machine.. I also have the front idler here in stock as well so yes you can buy them from me if you wish.

pmed you.

 

[revman74]

I am looking at buying a d37p-2 serial number 1604,I believe this would make it a 88-9 model. I don't have alot of experience with komatsu dozers. the machine has good uc, lgp,7000 hrs priced at 15k. I haven't physically looked at or operated the machine yet, in pics it looks pretty clean for its age. this will be a farm dozer doing clearing and grading. how reliable are these tractors? any known trouble areas to be aware of? I can't afford a d4-5 or 650 jd so I am hoping this machine might provide an answer. appreciate your opinions and help thanks. Admin hope this is allowed

 

[mitch504]

While I'm not familiar with this particular machine, Komatsu makes a very good dozer. They are the number 2 equipment maker in the world, after all. Keep in mind the D37 isn't really comparable to a D5-650 size, it's closer to a D3-450 in weight and hp, but that size can still be very capable.

 

[revman74]

thanks mitch, the d37 i believe is a 80 horsepower machine in the 15,000 lb range, I love a good jd 450 but I haven't been on a small machine in alot of yrs. My line of work keeps me on 8t's and 6t's for finish. My concern is reliability of older komatsu's as i just don't know much about them, loved the old pc400's but that was ages ago. been looking at 450-550's but everybody is way over priced on iron for the age and condition. lot of wore uc's advertised at 50-60 or 70 percent life left. If this weather ever lets up enough so i can get out of our holler i'll head down and test drive it may have more questions or answers then.

 

[Rien]

Hello Komatsu owners,
Being new here now but made a lot of use of this site by reading your experiences. Just finished a sort of revision and cleaning of one of the steering clutches of my Komatsu D20S-5 track-loader. This due to the familiar "not steering at one side" issue.
All parts are going as new now and have been mounted back, however I am wondering how to de-air the hydraulic steering system?
Noticed a significant amount of pressure on the system when the engine is running. Logical because this pressure has to press the 8 springs inside the clutch drum.
Found a little squared shaped screw (7mm) at the hose connection on the top of each of the hydraulic cylinders (which pushes the clutch rod).
Has this little screw a 'bleeding" function like with cars or is there a different way to get the air out of the hydraulic steering system.
Assuming this is the issue of not having a clutch now after mounting all together.
Thanks for your suggestions, regards, Rien

 

[Oldyellar]

Hello
Everyone I'm looking for a aftermarket manufacture for the four post rops for a komatsu d20a-6 I cannot find anything on the internet if anyone could give me a website or place to call would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
John

 

[jld]

Hello
Everyone I'm looking for a aftermarket manufacture for the four post rops for a komatsu d20a-6 I cannot find anything on the internet if anyone could give me a website or place to call would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
John

I don't know of anyone who might have a rops for these machines. They were designed with a canvas top. I set mine in the shop and fabricated one to fit the mount holes with heavy 1/4" thick square tubing and expanded metal screen. It may not be osha certified but it still works for me. I've bumped a few trees with it without tearing it up. I made the mistake of going into the woods on it with out the headache cover and got hit with a dead limb from twenty feet up. "Ouch" and sixteen stiches. How it hard hat and rops cage for me.

 

[Oldyellar]

Got another question for you guys on here are repacking the hydraulic cylinders on these dozers very hard I have the correct spanner wrench and was wondering what size nuts are on the lift,angle and tilt cylinder. Any input greatly appreciated

Thanks
John

 

[jld]

Got another question for you guys on here are repacking the hydraulic cylinders on these dozers very hard I have the correct spanner wrench and was wondering what size nuts are on the lift,angle and tilt cylinder. Any input greatly appreciated

Thanks
John

check out this website "komatsupartsbook.com". Free pdf files for komatsu parts with numbers and pitchers. This helps a lot finding where every thing is on these dozers

 

[Torn]

Greetings All. My Komatsu D-21P has always started purring smoothly after a 2-5 second crank. After sitting for 3 months, cranked and got a little dark smoke and firing on 1-2 cylinders. Tank has always been full. Further cranking yields no firing at all. I'm new to diesels in general, would like a overview to troubleshooting the fuel system. I've read through the forum and lots of detailed fix its, but would like most efficient approach. I'm hoping something simple like priming. I don't know where and how many fuel filters there are or how to identify & troubleshoot lift and injection pumps yet. Don't have a manual for it.

 

[darinray]

WELCOME ABOARD.


Try to take the banjo fitting out on the bottom of the priming pump. It's just a fitting holding the fuel line from the tank on the primer pump but it has a screen in it that could need cleaning out. Then after putting it back together just primp the girl until you hear fuel running back to the tank or until the pumping gets hard. Good luck...

 

[Torn]

Thanks darinray, I will do that. Priming the pump gets a good stream from the middle bleed screw in the intermediate stage above the screw-on can filter.the other lateral bleed screw not so much. When I loosened the terminal #1 injector hose I get a little fine droplet splatter with the engine cranking, but no "spurt" , not sure what to expect here... Roger the banjo fitting, screen, and listening for fuel return to tank or gets hard pumping. (Tank is full but we'll listen). Best wishes!

 

[Torn]

D21-P Zexel primer pump cleaning

(Re: D-21 fuel starvation after sitting. )You were spot on with the fouled primer pump. A few remarks re: this procedure. A little preparation will save multiple trips back to the tool shed and a lot of banjo sounds.. I expected to control the disconnected fuel line with a vice-grip or C-clamp on it...not. Controlling the fuel line is essential before disassembling the bottom filter/bolt. Don't expect to tap & blow on it to clear it while the line drips. Eventually found a 1/4 in smooth re-bar that fit perfectly and made a tight seal when the banjo clamp was tightened. A toothbrush and cup of fuel is good to have on hand to clean the nylon mesh filter in the bottom bolt. Main thing is to catch all the parts when you take off the bolt. Removing bolt allows what must have been a brass washer to fall into the engine pan or ground. Someplace it's difficult to see, much less reach. I realized this when reassembling the yolk-nipple and couldn't achieve a seal at full torque. Blind groping in the greasy acorn-mud with fingertips failed to reward my efforts, so today I get to find a replacement for this specialty washer. "For want of a nail the horseshoe was lost..." I've got a good feeling about this being the fix though.

 

[Jeff in Oregon]

D21A-5 Brake adjustment problem

Hello,
I have owned a D21A-5 for about 6 years. My dozer has developed an issue over the winter months, the right clutch/brake works fine, however the left is a different story. The left clutch seems to disconnect power just fine, however when moving forward the brake barely engages to the point it is almost impossible to turn left. Going backwards works just fine, with the clutch disengaging power and the brake grabbing quite nicely.

So I think to myself there must be an adjustment, I open the small cover on the top rear over the clutch/brake area and there is an adjustment bolt that sticks out. I crank this bolt about 1/2 turn and give it a try.
Now the brake works fine while going forward, however in reverse without pulling on the lever at all, I can tell the brake is dragging. I back it off halfway and it goes back to not working in the forward direction.

So, am I missing something? Or is there a broken spring or retainer that keeps the brake off when reversing? I attached a picture of the diamond shaped cover for the Brake Adjustment. Any helpful advice would be welcome before I start disassembly!

 

[Jeff in Oregon]

If you can't find those brass "Crush Washers" at a hardware store, try a motorcycle shop. They use them on motorcycle brake systems all the time. Just take the one you have left as a sample.

 

[jd435d]

Hi guys, newbie here. Hope I'm doing this right. I'm looking at a D20s and wonder if a clam-shell bucket can be fitted to this machine. Thanks for your help.

 

[d21p-5tennessee]

hi all i have a d21p-5 and wanted to know if anyone has seen or put a pto shaft on one of these dozers.

 

[Robert Jesurun]

Need help with ignition starter problem with Komatsu d 20. I have connected all batteries and get power to starter. I can make starter work by jumping it at starter but cannot get ignition switch to power starter. It seems none of the wires coming to and from ignition switch are hot. I have entire wire harness removed and am working in shop away from dozer. Help

 

[DannyO]

Need help with ignition starter problem with Komatsu d 20. I have connected all batteries and get power to starter. I can make starter work by jumping it at starter but cannot get ignition switch to power starter. It seems none of the wires coming to and from ignition switch are hot. I have entire wire harness removed and am working in shop away from dozer. Help

Robert, Believe it or not, your problem is more than likely your alternator. The starter has an extra small solenoid that acts as a safety to keep the starter from engaging while the engine is running. It gets the power from the 2nd terminal of the alternator. If the diodes go bad on the alternator, it puts enough power (voltage) on that terminal to keep the starter from engaging when you hit the ignition switch. A simple test is to disconnect the the wires coming from the alternator. Of course, it's not so simple when you have the wiring harness removed. This is a common problem with these little dozers and if anyone has one long enough, they will eventually see the problem. Guess how I know!