kentuckyboy
Member
New to the forum, lots of great information and knowledgeable people. Have a question, I have a D21-5, is the fan reversable? It is currently blowing air out through the radiator. Temp is running about 210, 215.
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Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers
- Thread starter rangerfreak
- Start date
oldhousehugger
Well-Known Member
Here is the link to the wix website.
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterloo...4&TempSubMake=669&TempModel=35692&TempEngine=
John
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterloo...4&TempSubMake=669&TempModel=35692&TempEngine=
John
oldhousehugger
Well-Known Member
Blades ,
I would like to see a picture and get a discription of how you built rippers for your D21. My D20 has a dozen or so threaded holes in the back of the transmission plate, and I've been tempted to start welding. How did you rig up your hydraulic supply etc.?
I would like to see a picture and get a discription of how you built rippers for your D21. My D20 has a dozen or so threaded holes in the back of the transmission plate, and I've been tempted to start welding. How did you rig up your hydraulic supply etc.?
Gauges not working
hello all, new guy here. Read a lot of good info here. I just bought a D21A-7 seems like a nice little machine. first problem I want to tackle, it has a fuel & temp gauge, & hr. meter, & none of them work. Both the gauges go full right shrtly after starting, & hr. meter just doesn't move. is this a typical problem? any ideas where to start? thanks for any help.
hello all, new guy here. Read a lot of good info here. I just bought a D21A-7 seems like a nice little machine. first problem I want to tackle, it has a fuel & temp gauge, & hr. meter, & none of them work. Both the gauges go full right shrtly after starting, & hr. meter just doesn't move. is this a typical problem? any ideas where to start? thanks for any help.
MrKomatsu
Senior Member
Komatsu uses ground to complete the circuits....most likely u have a bad connection...ck ur grounds
got my gauges working, thanks again Mr. K it was either the ground or the paint in the connectors, they had the dash off & connrctors unplugged & not masked off when machine was repainted, cleaned them up & tighten the grounds now all is good!!:drinkup
Danny B
Active Member
kentuckyboy
It is my assumption they are supposed to push air forward. Since they are such a slow moving vehicle, you would not want the hot air blowing back on the operator. I'm guessing this would also help keep dirt and trash out of the radiator.
Now a question from me. My throttle has gotten hard to move. It isn't froze up, but is much harder to move than when I got the machine. Can anyone tell me where to look first?
It is my assumption they are supposed to push air forward. Since they are such a slow moving vehicle, you would not want the hot air blowing back on the operator. I'm guessing this would also help keep dirt and trash out of the radiator.
Now a question from me. My throttle has gotten hard to move. It isn't froze up, but is much harder to move than when I got the machine. Can anyone tell me where to look first?
darinray
Charter Member
Yup to what Danny B says about the fan.
Your throttle cable is rusting up inside and will eventually get harder and harder until you start damaging the handle mechanism and or bending or breaking the cable mounts. I change them on the dozers I sell if they are stiff.
Darin
Your throttle cable is rusting up inside and will eventually get harder and harder until you start damaging the handle mechanism and or bending or breaking the cable mounts. I change them on the dozers I sell if they are stiff.
Darin
MrKomatsu
Senior Member
Stateline,
i'm glad u got it all working.............keep the peace.......later...:usa
i'm glad u got it all working.............keep the peace.......later...:usa
hi everyone from downunder
i just registered and have a question or two you may be able to help me with.
i have acquired an old d 50 a which is around a 1966 model 14 tonne machiine.i rebuilt the motor around 15 years ago and it was bad then,but it lasted until aroun 3 yrs ago and has sat in the paddock headless and deteriorating since.
anyway iv gotten an old 6 cyl straight ford diesel to put in,i think the bellhousing will be similar,and the horsepower ,but i may have trouble remounting the main hyd pump as it is gear driven under the balancer,the clutch has a small pump for lube i think also running from the front timing gears,now the original d120 engine has a balance shaft thingy in the sump to make it run smooth so will i have to rubber mount the ford as it shall run rougher i would guess.
im trying to do it on the cheap as money is low at the moment so am really just throwing ideas around at the moment.
the dozer when going would be used on a hobby farm basis.
i heard that this eng was originally a cummins jap copy so perhaps a cummins 4 or 6 b would be better but i dont know much about these engines.
so hopefully somebody may be able to advise and it would be greatly appreciated.
funny thing is that ive got an old 10 t hymac excvator out in the yard too...still going...it has the same 6 cyl ford eng as i intend to put in the d50a. not many people know much about them either,i think they were the original excv that were made in the uk
i just registered and have a question or two you may be able to help me with.
i have acquired an old d 50 a which is around a 1966 model 14 tonne machiine.i rebuilt the motor around 15 years ago and it was bad then,but it lasted until aroun 3 yrs ago and has sat in the paddock headless and deteriorating since.
anyway iv gotten an old 6 cyl straight ford diesel to put in,i think the bellhousing will be similar,and the horsepower ,but i may have trouble remounting the main hyd pump as it is gear driven under the balancer,the clutch has a small pump for lube i think also running from the front timing gears,now the original d120 engine has a balance shaft thingy in the sump to make it run smooth so will i have to rubber mount the ford as it shall run rougher i would guess.
im trying to do it on the cheap as money is low at the moment so am really just throwing ideas around at the moment.
the dozer when going would be used on a hobby farm basis.
i heard that this eng was originally a cummins jap copy so perhaps a cummins 4 or 6 b would be better but i dont know much about these engines.
so hopefully somebody may be able to advise and it would be greatly appreciated.
funny thing is that ive got an old 10 t hymac excvator out in the yard too...still going...it has the same 6 cyl ford eng as i intend to put in the d50a. not many people know much about them either,i think they were the original excv that were made in the uk
dcara
Well-Known Member
Sources for used parts
I have a Komatsu D31 and am looking for a source for used parts, preferably near Dallas Texas. I currently need a replacement exhaust stack. Any suggestins appreciated
I have a Komatsu D31 and am looking for a source for used parts, preferably near Dallas Texas. I currently need a replacement exhaust stack. Any suggestins appreciated
MrKomatsu
Senior Member
:drinkupdcara.....
Frontier tractor parts dallas tx.
Johnny 281-659-6620..tel him Texas Heavy Equipment sent ya.....
Frontier tractor parts dallas tx.
Johnny 281-659-6620..tel him Texas Heavy Equipment sent ya.....
itbs
Member
I have a 1993 D21P-7 that I am now beginning to have an issue with. The dozer does not want to turn left after a couple of hours use. I pulled one of the corks out of the back on the left side and gear oil came out. I suspect I need to change the seal from the drive shaft. My question is, are there any other seals I need to change and how difficult is this job?
Rick
Rick
darinray
Charter Member
Hello Rick,
There are drain plug on the bottom of the machine for you to remove instead of the corks and it take a 1/2" drive rachet to get em off.
You have to make sure where the oil is coming from (which oil level is lowering tranny, or bevel gear?) After knowing this you will know which seal to fix- steering cylinder seals or bevel gear seals. Hope this helps and you get her fixed.
Darin
There are drain plug on the bottom of the machine for you to remove instead of the corks and it take a 1/2" drive rachet to get em off.
You have to make sure where the oil is coming from (which oil level is lowering tranny, or bevel gear?) After knowing this you will know which seal to fix- steering cylinder seals or bevel gear seals. Hope this helps and you get her fixed.
Darin
itbs
Member
Darin,
Thanks for the info. I have checked the dip stick for the tranny and it appears to be fine, not any lower. I have noticed one thing, if I operate in low gear the problem does not happen as quickly. If I operate in high gear the problem happens quicker. I also noticed that when operating in low that the oil does not accumulate in the steering clutch area.
Thanks
Rick
Thanks for the info. I have checked the dip stick for the tranny and it appears to be fine, not any lower. I have noticed one thing, if I operate in low gear the problem does not happen as quickly. If I operate in high gear the problem happens quicker. I also noticed that when operating in low that the oil does not accumulate in the steering clutch area.
Thanks
Rick
darinray
Charter Member
The low gear thing make sense due to the moving parts not revolving as much so the oil isn't getting kicked around as much. ?????
MrKomatsu
Senior Member
itbs.....
it is a good idea since you will be in there already replace steering seals and bevel gear seals.....seals are cheap compared to down time......:drinkup:usa
it is a good idea since you will be in there already replace steering seals and bevel gear seals.....seals are cheap compared to down time......:drinkup:usa
dcara
Well-Known Member
Thanks Mr. Komatsu
itbs
Member
Mr. Komatsu...
Thanks for the input. What kind of time am I looking at to do this? I have never worked on a dozer but was a heavy mechanic on machinery for several years. By appearance it looks to me like I will have to remove the track, left drive wheel/gear, split the casing and replace the seals. Is the bevel gear shaft hard to get out?
Rick
Thanks for the input. What kind of time am I looking at to do this? I have never worked on a dozer but was a heavy mechanic on machinery for several years. By appearance it looks to me like I will have to remove the track, left drive wheel/gear, split the casing and replace the seals. Is the bevel gear shaft hard to get out?
Rick