Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

[keito]

The filter is located on the right side of your dozer mounted on the engine close to the dip stick. I think you may have to get a filter from the dealer but not quite sure. The drain plug is under the dozer behind the skid plate. I made it under mine with out lifting it off the ground I just ran it up on a couple of 2 x 12 and scooted under it.

I need to change the oil in my newly purchased D21-6. Can someone tell me where the oil filter is located and a part # would be a big help. Thanks, G

 

[Glen2]

Thanks keito,
I check the oil every time I use it and haven't noticed a filter. It must not be shaped like an auto filter which is what I have been looking for. I will check that out more closely. Thanks again, G

 

[keito]

You'll have to remove that side cover to expose it but it is just below your dipstick towards the drivers seat. I have a pic if you need it.

 

[Glen2]

Thanks, G

 

[Danny B]

Glen 2
Just changed my oil and filter. Got my filter from O'Reillys. Not very expensive. Wix brand. Don't have # handy right now. Filter is regular can shape just like on you car or truck. Screws in laying on its side. If you let the dozer set long enough, the filter drains out very well and comes off with no mess. Let us know if you have trouble finding filter. One of us will have the number. If it wasn't night time I'd run out to shed and get the number now.
Good luck.

 

[Danny B]

Oil filter # for Wix is 51206.

 

[Glen2]

Thanks Danny,
But we have a bigger problem now. We were running in some thick stuff and got a limb caught in the left track and knocked it off. We backed it out enough and by lifting the front with the blade were able to remove limb (log). We were going to just drive the track back on. Is this OK? It looked like it was putting a lot of pressure on the front yoke so we stopped. It was getting dark anyway. Can we just remove the grease fitting and release the adjusting grease, then roll the track on? We do not want to break something.
This is the first problem we have had other than a broken key. anybody know where to get a new key. Dealer key didnot work, Several keymaker both here and Baton Rouge connot help. No blanks. The key has JIDECO 742 stamper on it. Google said they were out of busness. You guys are great, hope you can help me. G

 

[Danny B]

Glen2
Releasing the pressure sounds like a good idea to me. One of the more experienced guys should be able to tell us more.

I looked around trying to get second key cut when I got my D21. Had to get one from dealer. Apparently they are all the same. I your case, it my be easier to get new switch from dealer, and change when/if you loose orig. key.

I logged back on with some ?'s of my own.
I noticed the left clutch not releasing after it had set a few days while doing some maint. (like oil change). I remembered someone advising to run forward and backward using brake to break loose clutch. This worked somewhat. Well during this manuver I noticed how much I could pull the left lever back compared to the right. I read my owners manual regarding play in levers. Right on is within tollerance, about 230mm. Left runs around 290mm. Tried to adjust. Couldn't turn either side in or out. I think Darin or someone discribed what I needed to do next.

Next question - To save time I probably need maintenance manual. After I got my D21, I found someone on internet that would sell maint. manual and some other manual in CD form. Is this a good idea? I think the price was in the area of $35.00

 

[Frank Dozer]

Glen2, be careful when you try to remove and/or backoff the grease fitting. Besides pressure from the cylinder, you might snap off the fitting. On my Komatsu D21A-5 the fitting is so rusted, I'm afraid to put force to it to release the pressure, in fear of snapping it off. Anyone else have an experience with this?

 

[GuglioLS]

Thanks Danny,
But we have a bigger problem now. We were running in some thick stuff and got a limb caught in the left track and knocked it off. We backed it out enough and by lifting the front with the blade were able to remove limb (log). We were going to just drive the track back on. Is this OK? It looked like it was putting a lot of pressure on the front yoke so we stopped. It was getting dark anyway. Can we just remove the grease fitting and release the adjusting grease, then roll the track on? We do not want to break something.
This is the first problem we have had other than a broken key. anybody know where to get a new key. Dealer key didnot work, Several keymaker both here and Baton Rouge connot help. No blanks. The key has JIDECO 742 stamper on it. Google said they were out of busness. You guys are great, hope you can help me. G

Way to go Glen2,
Bummer to hear about the track popping off. If the check valve for the track tension mechanism is working correctly, removing the grease fitting wont release the pressure. Toward the rear of the track tension cylinder near the grease fitting there is a large nut, loosen that nut slowly and grease should start to come out a hole at the top of the back of the cylinder releasing track tension. That is you best bet to get the track lose enough to get it back on the idler. Use a large steel bar and a helper. As far as keys go, check eBay, I purchased several off eBay and they work on my D20.

Here is a pic that may help to locate the grease release nut:

Larry

 

[darinray]

Big sledge hammer and hit the sprocket from inside to out about 3 good times and she will vibrate right off.

darin

Any of you fellows have any tips on removing the sprockets on a D20?

thx
keitho

 

[darinray]

Just sent you a email with the doc attached for the specs.

Darin

I got lost in this thread.
The opening says All Grey market.
I inherited a Mitsubishi BD2F.
Anyone know what fluids it takes and where to put them?
Filter numbers would be helpfull also.
Thanks

 

[Frank Dozer]

Hello Larry, How are you able to add text to your pictures?
Frank

 

[GuglioLS]

Hello Larry, How are you able to add text to your pictures?
Frank

Hi Frank,

I use photo editing software called MGI Photosuite, it came with my Sony digital camera, most cameras come with some sort of photo software. MS Paint works too, I imagine there must be some free photo editing software packages that can be downloaded that work just as well.

Larry

 

[Jeff Arnold]

i have a d20p 24 volt are these negtive ground or postive ground

 

[keitho]

Way to go Glen2,
Bummer to hear about the track popping off. If the check valve for the track tension mechanism is working correctly, removing the grease fitting wont release the pressure. Toward the rear of the track tension cylinder near the grease fitting there is a large nut, loosen that nut slowly and grease should start to come out a hole at the top of the back of the cylinder releasing track tension. That is you best bet to get the track lose enough to get it back on the idler. Use a large steel bar and a helper. As far as keys go, check eBay, I purchased several off eBay and they work on my D20.

Here is a pic that may help to locate the grease release nut:

Larry

Larry is spot on the money here
the nut is about 1 1/16 inch (actually something metric) and you only want to back it off 1 turn and no more
attach a come-along between the sprocket and the front idler using them nice round holes to get it to a released position then use a steel bar to slide the track where you need it
and then tighten the nut and pump grease in


keitho

 

[keitho]

i have a d20p 24 volt are these negtive ground or postive ground

my d20p-6 is 24 volt negative ground


keitho

 

[keitho]

Big sledge hammer and hit the sprocket from inside to out about 3 good times and she will vibrate right off.

darin

thanks darinray
i ended up cutting the outer sprockets off with the plasma and welded on a new set of outer sprocket rings
brand new track assembly so i figured the new sprockets were a must
the old tracks were so wore out that the bushings were gone totally on one side and the pins were wore in half while the front idler was about to fall off it's rail if it got tightened anymore
the new tracks are grouser type instead of them swamp pads and have no salt exposure so i'm hoping they may last a little better
anyway, changing that stuff out was so much fun that i may do it again next week for entertainment


keitho

 

[Frank Dozer]

Have you ever snapped off the adjusting nut when backing it off? That's what I'm afraid of. If that happens then the whole track adjuster assembly has to be removed. That's a lot of work and in older dozers, most of the bolts won't come off that hold that assembly on. Keep in mind that my grease fitting is not removable or separate from the grease adjusting bolt. It's all 1 piece of cast iron. I'll take a picture of it and post it.
Frank

Larry is spot on the money here
the nut is about 1 1/16 inch (actually something metric) and you only want to back it off 1 turn and no more
attach a come-along between the sprocket and the front idler using them nice round holes to get it to a released position then use a steel bar to slide the track where you need it
and then tighten the nut and pump grease in


keitho

 

[Frank Dozer]

Here's a picture of my adjusting bolt. Is it too fragile to back off? Opinions would be welcome.
Frank