Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

[greywynd]

You should be able to discuss this with your dealer but I think generally that type of product requires SAE 30W engine oil in the transmission/steering and final drives.

Don't use multigrade engine oils as clutch or brake disc damage may result.

This seems to be fairly common, the straight 30W oil in final drives. Are there any/many exceptions to this?

 

[Twisted]

The dealer said to use 30wt in the finals, transmission, and steer case. Unless I was going to run it in the winter then I should have 10wt in the tranny.

What is the problem with the multigrade fluids? What are they lacking that makes them unsuitable?

 

[Wulf]

The dealer said to use 30wt in the finals, transmission, and steer case. Unless I was going to run it in the winter then I should have 10wt in the tranny.

What is the problem with the multigrade fluids? What are they lacking that makes them unsuitable?

Twisted... Maybe an oil expert could explain it better but the way I understand it is that the mulitigrades contained friction modifiers to altered the oils viscosity with temperature.

In a transmission the additives could cause damage to the clutch disc friction material or allow slippage and burning of the material if the transmission clutch or steering/brake don't engage when they are supposed to.

 

[R Leo]

I'm also curious about the taboo of using multi-vis oils in wet clutches.

Multi-vis oils simply have polymer viscosity modifiers to help maintain more consistent viscosity throughout their operating temp range. I find it really hard to believe that the wet clutch or final drive on a dozer could be any harder (temperature-wise) on oil than a turbocharger on an engine when it's getting worked really hard. Lots of cars with turbos have run lots of miles on multi-vis oil w/o a problem...I know, I have three with >300K miles on each that have been running Rotella 15W-40 as long as I've had them.

On the D20 Komatsu, the steering clutches and brakes are dry; only the main clutch is wet.

 

[Wulf]

I'm also curious about the taboo of using multi-vis oils in wet clutches.

On the D20 Komatsu, the steering clutches and brakes are dry; only the main clutch is wet.

R Leo, the thread got sidetracked with reference to a D65-8 dozer which has a powershift transmission close coupled to a wet steering clutch and brake housing.

The issue was the influence of the slippery friction modifiers on the multi-disc clutches. The clutches and gear train have to be lubricated but also resist slippage.

Final drives are not really an issue as all the oil really has to do is keep the loaded gears separated and the bearings lubricated through splash lubrication.

 

[John White]

Furuka Parts

was told this dozer was the same as the small mitsibushi dozers was wondering if any one could give me a place for parts as the boss was using it and loss the piece that holds the blade to the c frame and it has a 6 way blade on it thanks

Call 706-634-3355 Some fellow in Ga. says he has a supplier in Japan. Parts are not going to be cheap. To my knowledge there is no supplier or distribution of parts in US. I purchased a Mitsubishi BD2J, parts supposidely can be purchased from Rhine Equip in Wash. If you need their # contact me.

 

[R Leo]

Call 706-634-3355 Some fellow in Ga. says he has a supplier in Japan. Parts are not going to be cheap. To my knowledge there is no supplier or distribution of parts in US. I purchased a Mitsubishi BD2J, parts supposidely can be purchased from Rhine Equip in Wash. If you need their # contact me.

You should go ahead and post Rhine's number here so that others have access to it.

 

[John White]

Rine Eqpt phone.

You should go ahead and post Rhine's number here so that others have access to it.

Rine Eqpt. phone 1-800-536-3335

 

[4x4ford]

thanks ill let him know the number

 

[Oversized2]

Indicator lights on panel

Trying out a used D21-P before purchasing. There are 3 red lights on the instrument panel that the symbols are not ledgable. Could some one tell what they are?

Tahnks, Bud

 

[Countryboy]

Welcome to HEF Oversized2! :drinkup

 

[dumptrucker]

I believe they are p-brake,oil pressure , and alternator.

 

[Oversized2]

Is that right to left, or left to right.

 

[dumptrucker]

Honestly, I don't remember the order that it was in. Sorry.

 

[Wulf]

I believe they are p-brake,oil pressure , and alternator.

Oversized2... maybe you can confirm which model it is e.g. D21P-? because on the -7 they are:
L: Charge Lamp
Centre: Engine Oil Pressure
R: Air Filter restriction

 

[Orchard Ex]

Oversized2... maybe you can confirm which model it is e.g. D21P-? because on the -7 they are:
L: Charge Lamp
Centre: Engine Oil Pressure
R: Air Filter restriction

I have a D20-6 and mine are:
L - Alt
M - OP
R - Low Fuel

You can pop them out pretty easily and hold them up to the light to see the legends. I'd do it one at a time though...

 

[mikek]

Mike,
I have the big maintenace manual for the D20...I'm pretty sure the track cylinders are the same in both the '20 and '21 and the -5 and -6.

Unfortunately, that manual is at the farm and I won't be out there until the 2nd weekend in Nov. But, I will scan those pages on the tensioner for you and post them when I have the manual in hand.

R Leo, thanks!!!

I located the closest Komatsu dealer and will have a packing kit, seals and o-rings by the end of the week- $45 for parts.

talked to shop guy about the cylinder, hardest part of this job will be removing/replacing the cylinder, actual resealing is piece of cake (according to Doug in the shop) once cylinder is in hand. He was not sure if I can get it off the tractor without 'breaking' the track to gain clearance to lift out the fork that goes to front idler. We shall see........

Mikek

 

[kc5gxc]

Hey Mike
I have heard that the spring is loaded, and will get you if you don't watch out.......did the shop guy say anything about it???
In other words, I think it's pre compressed somehow. Somewhere I have read that.
My springs are both broken, but still hold the tracks pretty tight....I may have to work on them soon.
Good luck and take care
PS: I got a 21P-6.....older one.
Pete

 

[mikek]

took about 3 hrs to get the tensioning cylinder off the tractor, definately would have been easier with the tracks out of the way. dunno if I will be able to get the cyl. back in position with the tracks in place.

the spring carriage is under heavy spring tension but you absolutely DO NOT remove the 4 bolts that hold the spring captive in the carriage.

ran out of daylight before I got the cylinder/piston/seals dissasembled, will get back to it tomorrow. I got the packing kit, wear rings, and dust seal from Komatsu dealer (Linder Machinery) and parts guy was confident they were correct for my serial # machine, so far I have not seen anything looking at the cylinder that looks like the parts I have, keeping my fingers crossed that they are right.

MikeK

 

[mikek]

tensioning cylinder re-packed, re-sealed, re-installed.

installation went smoother than removal. I replaced all the bolts since I had to use the smoke wrench on about half of them on removal.

if/when I do the left side, the most important thing I learned-- open the release port at the grease fitting and use whatever you have (come-along, port-a-power, or maybe even drive the machine) to get the piston and shaft back as far as possible into the cylinder. Then you have plenty of slack in the track and can use the port-a-power and come-along to hold the track up out of the way to R&R the cylinder.