Rebuilding Deere 1810E scraper

[Shimmy1]

About 4" of 80mm pin stuck in a bore that is 1.5" thick, and 16 years to grow in.

Three 1" bolts should give a guy about 30 tons of pressure? Obviously fine thread would be better.

 

[skyking1]

I don't see enough sledgehammer marks there. Lots of hot wrench though.
Did it snap off on that bolt side?

 

[farmerlund]

Oxylance is the way. unless you have to save the pin. I got one a coupe years ago. huge time saver.

 

[Shimmy1]

Pin is fine other than the cylinder needs rebuilt.

Progress.

 

[Shimmy1]

Halfway out, and seems to have stalled? With half as much length, should be getting easier? What a PITA.

 

[skyking1]

If you're beating and pushing on the pin it might mushroom just a tiny bit there in the bore and get tougher. Looking good though!

 

[Shimmy1]

If you're beating and pushing on the pin it might mushroom just a tiny bit there in the bore and get tougher. Looking good though!

We didn't beat on it hardly at all, and when we did, we had a short chunk of pin the same diameter that we stuck in the hole. Otherwise, we've been pushing the whole time. Just cannot believe it hasn't started moving easier, and now we lost the threads on the pulling bolts

 

[Mobiltech]

Cut the pin off as close to the face as possible. Get the cylinder out of the way and burn a hole through the Center of what’s left of the pin with the cutting torch. It will slide out easier then.

 

[Georgia Iron]

Don't cut it out. I would have put a hydraulic jack and pushed off the other arm. Using a jack and hitting the flange with a big hammer more than likely would push right out. If not add heat. If the jack required a lot of force weld a bar across the arms so that the arms don't bend apart.

That pin would be out quick and easy.

 

[Shimmy1]

Don't cut it out. I would have put a hydraulic jack and pushed off the other arm. Using a jack and hitting the flange with a big hammer more than likely would push right out. If not add heat. If the jack required a lot of force weld a bar across the arms so that the arms don't bend apart.

That pin would be out quick and easy.

We have been pushing on it with all the torque we can apply to three 1" bolts. Isn't that 30-40 tons of pressure? Also been hammering on the pin flange the whole time. We've also heated the pin boss up 2-3 times and let cool completely yesterday, and the applied just enough heat today to get the boss hot, but hopefully not the pin. We could tell it would start moving at just the right amount of heat, and basically stop when the pin itself warmed up.

 

[Georgia Iron]

I see that but your technique is not as good as a big jack actually the bolts don't even come close to the Same pressures. Trust me all I do is work on old stuff. Go ahead and weld the bar across it and give it a shot.

 

[Shimmy1]

Cut the pin off as close to the face as possible. Get the cylinder out of the way and burn a hole through the Center of what’s left of the pin with the cutting torch. It will slide out easier then.

There is still 4.5" of pin in the bore. We don't have a lance, I'm not sure you can cut a hole through that much with just a torch.

 

[Mobiltech]

I guess it depends on if you need to save the pin. It looks like it will need some build up at least.

 

[Shimmy1]

I see that but your technique is not as good as a big jack actually the bolts don't even come close to the Same pressures

Well that's not what I was wanting to hear. Pretty hard to rig anything to jack against, the scraper is 10.5' wide inside.

 

[Shimmy1]

I guess it depends on if you need to save the pin. It looks like it will need some build up at least.

Pin is junk. Not worried about it in the least. Just want the fcuker out.

 

[Welder Dave]

Can you put a big pipe wrench on the pin and turn it or alternatively weld a plate on the pin so you can beat it with a hammer to turn it? Might have a little lip catching and turning the pin to a different position will let it slide out. Maybe you could turn it while pushing/pulling and kind of thread it out past the stuck point. Maybe even weld a big nut on the pin and put your biggest impact wrench on it.

 

[Shimmy1]

Can you put a big pipe wrench on the pin and turn it or alternatively weld a plate on the pin so you can beat it with a hammer to turn it? Might have a little lip catching and turning the pin to a different position will let it slide out. Maybe you could turn it while pushing/pulling and kind of thread it out past the stuck point. Maybe even weld a big nut on the pin and put your biggest impact wrench on it.

All ideas we've considered, but if three 1" bolts pushing on it won't push it, is there really any likely chance of it turning? We did try and turn on it with a 4' pipe wrench and 8' pipe. No dice.

 

[Georgia Iron]

Weld a simple cradle off the back side of the arm to hold the jack, if you don't have a piece of steel beam or pipe laying around. A heavy wall metal gate post would brace the jack just fine. Cut everything square and tack weld it on, you could even tack on a 45* brace if you see it try to move.

 

[Delmer]

An oxygen lance is nothing more than a black iron pipe with oxygen hooked to it, and a way to start it. The exothermic torches just fill the pipe with wire for more iron, and add some ingredients to make it easier to start.

For only 4" I'd drill a hole through that much, then a bigger hole, then carefully use a torch to wallow the hole out a little more, the heat will upset the pin, then shrink when it cools and should come right out. or sawzall it and drill from the flush end.

 

[Welder Dave]

If it's hanging up on a lip turning it to a different position could help. Might have to pound it back in slightly since it's wedged solid against something. Thinking maybe there are bushings on each side of the boss the pin is stuck in and there is a space between those bushings the pin is getting hung up on. Just a bit of mushrooming on the pin is all it would take.
If nothing works cut the pin so you can get the cylinder off. The pin may have to come out the other side. I recently put a ripper on my grader. I had to flip the ripper teeth around because they were in the transport position. On one shank the pins would only go in the thick bosses one way. Somehow the 1 1/2" pins were mushroomed on one side and wouldn't fit in the bosses. It was strange because the pins slid easily enough you wouldn't have had to beat on them. They were straight pins with no taper and used a cotter pin on each end. It seems like your pin may be slightly bigger on the stuck end or it has a slight bend in it. A bend could explain why it's so stuck. With the cylinder out of the way you could manipulate the pin any way you wanted including pounding it out the other direction.