Order assembled chains and pads or transfer? Ec140blc

[RTS8809]

Hey guys, I am having a hard time deciding here.

I have an open quote for all new parts for the undercarriage (ITR). I don't really want to mix any old worn out rolling parts with the new chains. But I am on the fence when it comes to the pads.

It will be roughly 5400 for new pads already assembled to the chains. I figure it will save me a ton of back breaking labor and time, but my pads aren't totally gone. However there are quite a few loose bolts and shifty pads. So I would imagine the holes are slightly oblong and will be more likely to loosen up again.

Thanks for any input from guys who have done this job before, (I haven't).

 

[funwithfuel]

I doubt the grousers are worn, more like the bolts are stepped. Won't know till you remove a few. Do you tram more than dig? I've got customers on 160s through 700s still on first set beyond 10k. You sure you don't just need idlers? Plus, if you can afford the downtime, why not have yours rebushed? My sales guys push ITR as replacement components but for a Volvo, those things really hold up.
5400 for both chains, grousers and all, doesn't sound all that terrible to me. I'm in the Chicago market though, everything is super expensive here.

 

[RTS8809]

I bought the machine used, hour meter read 5800 hrs. I removed the seat and broke the hour meter, I THINK, although it could have been broken previously. So hours are kind of a question mark. Either the previous owner did a lot of blade work, or the hours are wrong....

Most of my issues are from the chain, it seems like there are a few stiff links and some dry. They just make a ton of noise. The sprockets are also very sharp. I have to cut in a long driveway at my house and I don't really want to make too many enemies as there will be a fair amount of ground to cover.


5400 is the additional cost for JUST the grousers and labor to have them bolted to the chains. And just making sure, you mean the ITR parts hold up well on Volvos? Or Volvo undercarriages hold up well in general?

 

[RTS8809]

I am sure the current tracks would last for hundreds or thousands of hours longer. But they just drive me nuts, day one my neighbor came over commenting on how I need to "oil that thing".

Im probably being a little wasteful here. But Im also an over maintainer.

 

[funwithfuel]

Well that changes things drastically. I'd oil the chains and work em free. Everyone always wants to know what to do with waste oil, well there you go. You got a blade on yours, sweet. That's a slick combo.

 

[RTS8809]

Thank you, it's a fairly well kept machine.

Will the oil work it's way in? I figured the links were sealed so I never even tried.

 

[funwithfuel]

Worked for me in the past. It's better and cheaper than unnecessary chains

 

[funwithfuel]

Blade and thumb, sweet

 

[materthegreater]

I've not been impressed with the ITR track groups I put on my machine. But, it's a much smaller machine than yours. The carrier rollers stick and I have to free them up with large channel lock pliers each day before I use the machine, even when they're perfectly clean. I think the seals are cheap and that's where the sticking comes from.

 

[RTS8809]

Ughhh. There are mixed reviews on aftermarket track parts. On the Internet and off.

I would have them warranty that! Their warranty sounds solid from what I've read.

 

[CM1995]

Add me to the not so happy with ITR rails either. Replaced the rails a few years ago on our 321DL and probably put less than 1500 - 2000 hrs on it since then and there are 2 segments on the track link on the left side where the bushings are wallowed out.

Looks just like maters video above.

 

[RTS8809]

 

[RTS8809]

I decided to transfer the pads and save the money.
Rented a tow behind compressor to run a 1 inch impact, snapped all the bolts.

The rails were far worse than I realized. What causes this to happen?

 

[Welder Dave]

Pads should be installed with the torque turn method not just with an impact as tight as you can get them. They aren't the most critical but the torque on them is.

 

[RTS8809]

Dave,
I haven't installed the new parts yet.
Can you tell me what torque and how far to turn?
I was planning on torquing to 300-330 only because that's what the service manual says I believe.

 

[Welder Dave]

I don't know for your specific machine but the undercarriage supplier should. Cat has the torque listed in their undercarriage guide for different sized track bolts. I paid an extra few hundred dollars to have the pads installed on the track press. It has an electric torque wrench and they make a mark and usually turn the bolts an extra 30 deg's. Some bolts may turn more after initial torque.

 

[skyking1]

I decided to transfer the pads and save the money.
Rented a tow behind compressor to run a 1 inch impact, snapped all the bolts.

The rails were far worse than I realized. What causes this to happen?

Life, life is what causes this to happen. They run in dirt and crud and grit, it gets in there and once it gets started, it will wallow out anything.
I put loaded ITR tracks on the JD 120 and so far I am happy. The old tracks were like slinkys, side to side.

 

[CM1995]

Life, life is what causes this to happen. They run in dirt and crud and grit, it gets in there and once it gets started, it will wallow out anything.
I put loaded ITR tracks on the JD 120 and so far I am happy. The old tracks were like slinkys, side to side.

Well I'm not happy with the ITR's we put on our 321. From my post above 2 links are wore slap out just like maters video, however the rest of the bushings are still smooth. Just poor quality control IMO. I won't be buying another set.

 

[Welder Dave]

Maybe a couple bushings got missed in the heat treatment or something??

 

[funwithfuel]

If you had more than one machine or could have afforded the downtime, I would have suggested having the bushings turned or replaced. That's really all that goes bad. It's not like the links actually stretch. Sand and silt are big deals when it comes to tracks. You've gotta slacken the chains when you're in that stuff to extend the life. Your ops manual will tell you what your slack should be, usually between 10½ and 12" if I remember correctly.