NH 650 round baler twine issues

[200lc1]

I'm at a loss, when the twine is captured by the knives before tying starts everything works perfectly. For some reason, when the twine cuts off at completion, it won't stay under the knives every time. If I load the next bale and try to tie, sometimes they both work, sometimes only one side works. I end up stopping the baler and resetting the twine under the knives. I think the twine is getting stretched during tying and recoils when it cuts. The routing of the twine is pretty basic, I do notice that it rubs on the main frame on both sides, but that's factory routing. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks

 

[John C.]

Is there any play in the knotters? My nephew's square baler had the same sort of problem and they found out there were bushings inside that were worn letting the thing change position just as it was about to be cut.

 

[200lc1]

Thanks for the reply but it's a round baler, a lot less complicated than a square baler, but being a pain all the same. Square bale knotters can be finicky.
Thanks

 

[8k bill]

I'd check to see if there is a groove worn in the string brake,string won't cut properly if there is

 

[200lc1]

Looked at the drag clamps seem ok, but I did notice there is more drag on string when in the cut position. Someone has repaired the twine arms, they did a decent enough job not to notice unless you look closer. I'm going to do some rework on that. Is it possible that the clamping force on the knives is too high, would backing it off allow some string to pull through before it cuts. Tough to experiment while baling, but need to bale for testing... hmmm. Maybe the twine I'm using is too stretchy.

 

[8k bill]

G'day 200lc1, There should be a mechanism that releases the drag on the twine to allow it to feed into the bale,then the drag is firm right through to cutoff. It needs a fair bit of resistance for the knives to cut. We use a thinner twine for round bales (not the thick stuff for small square bales) Hope this helps. Bill

 

[200lc1]

There is a spring loaded clamp assy that sets the drag up in the twine storage compartment, it isn't arm position dependent. Makes sense that there should be more drag at the cut position, sometimes just have to hear it from somebody else to make sense. That extra drag seems to come from steeper angles created in the twine routing when the arms are retracted. It is the thinner round bale twine, but I did just put in new twine. I know my square baler is sensitive to brands of twine, but that's pretty much knotter adjustment related. Maybe it's cutting normally and the problem is that it isn't feeding onto bale consistently. The other baler, I had used, captured the cut ends of the twine under the knives each time. This one does that inconsistently, I guess I'll have to find a same model baler to see what the twine tubes/arms are supposed to look like. The parts book only shows an exploded cad picture. Like I say, these function, but have been repaired.
Thanks

 

[wrwtexan]

The twine doesn't have to be held by the knives as when working properly, it can be hand cut and left loose. If it isn't putting the twine into the bale, check the tapered plunger at the ends of the twine arms. As they swing down, they extend and the plunger has to hold the twine and its tag out so it is pulled under the bale. The socket will get a cut in it and it then can't hold the twine. I've repaired many by cutting the end off and replacing it with a short section of wrist pin which is much harder than original.

 

[200lc1]

Kind of what I was wondering, no same series balers around to compare to. Last night I made a temporary set of spring loaded plungers for the arm ends, which were missing. They did feed properly most of the time even without being retained by the knives. Those were my last bales for the season, so I know, now, how I need to repair the arms properly in the off season. It's pretty spendy to buy the parts from the dealer, especially for a baler showing near 28000 bales (somebody else definitely got there moneys worth).
What I still don't get is that one side almost always gets caught by the knife and feeds properly (even as it was), a mystery... The wrist pin is a good idea, I was looking through all my scraps and junk to find suitable end material. Unfortunately, no loose wrist pins laying around, but a good idea all the same.