Nige
Senior Member
How much for the 133-2694 roller shell complete with bearings.?
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Newby with CAT 305.5E2 (not CR) -- I think the tracks are toast. Do I need new sprockets?
- Thread starter Baxsie
- Start date
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
I don't see a 133-2694. I see a 136-2394 for $116:
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
On the hydraulic tensioner, a local hydraulic shop is going to cut me a 8.25" (~210mm) length of 40mm chrome polished for less than $50 (CAT part is $175). It'll be saw cut, so I'll have to bevel / polish the ends. I will get new seals coming from CAT.
Nige
Senior Member
You are correct. Dyslexia strikes again......
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
Well, the $120 bottom roller SIS2GO price turned out to good to be true:
$3400 with tax. I'll need to hunt around for aftermarket solutions.
$3400 with tax. I'll need to hunt around for aftermarket solutions.
oarwhat
Senior Member
Believe it or not they're on amazon and Ebay
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
Roller replacement update.
So I was able to remove the 5 bottom rollers on the left side:
That was relatively drama-free, with the exception of snapping the pin in my beloved 30-year old USA Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar.
I ordered some bottom rollers from eBay. $1282 for 10 rollers across 2 orders. The photos looked right and the ad claims to fit this machine. We shall see.
The top roller removal is not going so well:
I got the set screw out. Disassembled the roller, which was likely not needed, but then I was able to put the cap back on and use my slide hammer on that while the gear puller is pushing on the back. Nothing happening. I also tried the air hammer (OK, air chisel with blunt bit) on the backside while the gear puller was tensioned up.
My next step would be heat - but I'm not excited about heating and possibly weakening the upright.
Suggestions?
So I was able to remove the 5 bottom rollers on the left side:
That was relatively drama-free, with the exception of snapping the pin in my beloved 30-year old USA Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar.
I ordered some bottom rollers from eBay. $1282 for 10 rollers across 2 orders. The photos looked right and the ad claims to fit this machine. We shall see.
The top roller removal is not going so well:
I got the set screw out. Disassembled the roller, which was likely not needed, but then I was able to put the cap back on and use my slide hammer on that while the gear puller is pushing on the back. Nothing happening. I also tried the air hammer (OK, air chisel with blunt bit) on the backside while the gear puller was tensioned up.
My next step would be heat - but I'm not excited about heating and possibly weakening the upright.
Suggestions?
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
Update on the hydraulic tensioner.
First off is to try to recover the 353-5579 plate ($190 according to SIS2GO). Some previous work had welded a second plate on it, including welding inside a hole. Why a hole right where the piston hits? Why weld inside it?
I used my cheesey mag drill and a TCT hole saw to cut just outside the weld:
Then used the portable grinder with a cutoff disk to cut the outside welds:
First off is to try to recover the 353-5579 plate ($190 according to SIS2GO). Some previous work had welded a second plate on it, including welding inside a hole. Why a hole right where the piston hits? Why weld inside it?
I used my cheesey mag drill and a TCT hole saw to cut just outside the weld:
Then used the portable grinder with a cutoff disk to cut the outside welds:
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
More grinding and some time on the belt sander:
Eeek, I cut a bit deep. I cleaned up the other side for kicks:
OK, time down the drain but $190 is $190.
Also got some 10.9 bolts and a close match for the washers.
Eeek, I cut a bit deep. I cleaned up the other side for kicks:
OK, time down the drain but $190 is $190.
Also got some 10.9 bolts and a close match for the washers.
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
SIS2GO says the entire adjuster (353-5582) is $1191. For that money I can spend some time on it.
DIY replacement piston.
Sis2Go says the piston (353-5584) is $175. I had a local hydraulic shop cut a piece of 40mm chrome stock for me: $43.64 out the door. I guesstimated with a measuring tape that the piston was about 8.25" long (I had not yet disassembled the piston and cylinder). Came out pretty close:
The new rod is in the barber-stripe protective cardboard. The old rod aspires to be a mushroom.
Cleaning up the cylinder. The inside, past the O-ring looks beautiful:
I'll have to use some sealer on the outside edge of the outer seal to make up for that rough rust. I have a set of seals from CAT.
The grease valve seems to work, but one set of the threads seem a bit bunged up:
And while the sealing cone seems to seat fine (the copper stripe?), there is some weird metal above it:
SIS2GO thinks that valve ( 154-2237 ) is $36 so it might be worth getting a new one. Maybe I could replace it later -- it looks like it can come out if I remove the keeper.
DIY replacement piston.
Sis2Go says the piston (353-5584) is $175. I had a local hydraulic shop cut a piece of 40mm chrome stock for me: $43.64 out the door. I guesstimated with a measuring tape that the piston was about 8.25" long (I had not yet disassembled the piston and cylinder). Came out pretty close:
The new rod is in the barber-stripe protective cardboard. The old rod aspires to be a mushroom.
Cleaning up the cylinder. The inside, past the O-ring looks beautiful:
I'll have to use some sealer on the outside edge of the outer seal to make up for that rough rust. I have a set of seals from CAT.
The grease valve seems to work, but one set of the threads seem a bit bunged up:
And while the sealing cone seems to seat fine (the copper stripe?), there is some weird metal above it:
SIS2GO thinks that valve ( 154-2237 ) is $36 so it might be worth getting a new one. Maybe I could replace it later -- it looks like it can come out if I remove the keeper.
Last edited:
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
Uggh, looking at the pictures of new ones, I would want to figure out the threads and run a tap down the hole to remove whatever bunged up those threads before I put a new on in there.
None of the pics I can find online have the channel cut through the threads like mine has. Also, I wonder if there are supposed to be O-rings in the unthreaded portions.
None of the pics I can find online have the channel cut through the threads like mine has. Also, I wonder if there are supposed to be O-rings in the unthreaded portions.
Nige
Senior Member
The longitudinal channel in the body is to relieve the grease pressure when you want to de-tension the tracks.
Regarding removing the carrier roller shaft. How wide is the split in the top side of the mounting bracket.? If it is wide enough slide a pice of thin steel plate into it then put the setscrew back in from the opposite site and tighten. That will slightly open the split in the bracket and should help you get the shaft out.
Regarding removing the carrier roller shaft. How wide is the split in the top side of the mounting bracket.? If it is wide enough slide a pice of thin steel plate into it then put the setscrew back in from the opposite site and tighten. That will slightly open the split in the bracket and should help you get the shaft out.
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
I'll have to look. I did not notice a split.
Its full of dirt I'm sure. I've had success in using a worn-out flat screwdriver to insert in the gap. A couple or 3 hammer strikes to open the gap a tad does the trick. Most of the time I can remove it by hand.
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
@Vetech63, @Nige: it is cold, rainy, and windy today - so I'm all about inside jobs cuddled up in front of the big monitors right now. In a few days I'll attack that top roller removal. I'm waiting on bottom (and now top, see below) rollers before I can do anything else.
I guess there is inside-the-shop work remaining on the hydraulic tensioner - I need to straighten out that triangle plate. There was a bunch of debris in the big tube which is what I assume bent the plate up - and might have scratched the chrome causing the start of the corrosion blisters.
On that subject, does the spring assembly:
just slide out of the tube like the hydraulic tensioner and idler? I'm worried that there are more rocks and crap in it. I'll try when I'm next out.
Back to the rollers -- I decided to try propelparts.us for the top rollers:
The price seems very aggressive - $197 shipped for 2 pieces. CAT was $545 locally.
One part of me is "Don't buy the cheesey Chinese parts!!! Go with real CAT parts!". The other part of me is:
I guess there is inside-the-shop work remaining on the hydraulic tensioner - I need to straighten out that triangle plate. There was a bunch of debris in the big tube which is what I assume bent the plate up - and might have scratched the chrome causing the start of the corrosion blisters.
On that subject, does the spring assembly:
just slide out of the tube like the hydraulic tensioner and idler? I'm worried that there are more rocks and crap in it. I'll try when I'm next out.
Back to the rollers -- I decided to try propelparts.us for the top rollers:
The price seems very aggressive - $197 shipped for 2 pieces. CAT was $545 locally.
One part of me is "Don't buy the cheesey Chinese parts!!! Go with real CAT parts!". The other part of me is:
Nige
Senior Member
A cold chisel with a wide blade also works well. Agree it should just slide out.
Nige
Senior Member
It should do, but it depends how much dried mud and other cr@p is jammed around it. Clean everything really well before you attempt to remove the recoil spring assembly.
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
I could see the big nut of the spring assembly visible in the center chamber. I just assumed that that nut was tightened on one side of that chamber wall with the spring on the other side. Now I'm thinking that the entire spring assembly just slides in there loosely which kind of makes sense I guess -- it's always supposed to be in compression, right?
I was pretty hesitant to remove the nut and I'm glad that I hesitated because that would have been a dumb (and possibly dangerous) thing.
I'll take a shot sliding it out and make sure I've got all the crap out of that tube before I reassemble everything.
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
Agreed. I do not want to disassemble the spring.
But - - I think I can slide it out of the frame tube without disassembling it to make sure there are no rocks or mud in there. Right?