My long quest for water... A homemade well drilling rig. Have you ever done this?

[Georgia Iron]

After looking at my hydraulics, I decided the easiest and cheapest way to add another hydraulic function would be to install a double selector control valve.

Since several functions on the machine once set will not need to be used again while the machine is working. I decided that a double acting valve could shift fluid control from one circuit to another.





The way it works is fluid from your spool control enters / exits the center ports, then depending on which way the valve is set it either uses the top 2 ports or the bottom 2 ports.

This saved me from needing to plumb into the PB port on the 6 spool control valve I have. It would have taken larger hoses and more work to add another spool. The cost of a new spool would have been about $50.00 plus hose tie-ins.

I will pull fluid away from an outrigger once it is set into place.

Total Cost used on ebay was $100.00. I also needed 6 - 1" npt fittings to jic #6 at $35.00

I should have enough hoses laying around to tie right into this selector. It was hot today. We have been having heavy rains late in the day or at night causing all dirt work to stop. Been canceled 4 different times on grading work in the last 2 weeks.

The daily temps have been hitting 95* with high humidity. Heat warnings of 111*. Standing in the sun welding and turning a wrench had not been too fun lately.

I have been on the fence about extending the boom length. I needed a mast 25' long and only had 18 or 20'. I decided to go with what I had on hand. This will limit me on just being able attach one drill stem section at a time. I am not sure it is worth the effort to extend it now or if I should test this out first to see if it has a chance of working at all. Odd's are if I don't extend it now before sending it off to work it will never happen.

 

[Legdoc]

Wow, your rig is moving right along. I am envious! Tool jointed drill string as well.

 

[Georgia Iron]

Wow, your rig is moving right along. I am envious! Tool jointed drill string as well.

I know right. I have literally thought about making this for 18 months. I have not had water on my cabin which I am building myself also. I will not close any interior walls until I have pressure tested and used water in the plumbing, so I want this done yesterday. For several reasons I decided that I wanted to drill my own well since I have done everything else on my cabin myself from clearing, to grading, to concrete, to framing, to making all wood used in the cabin, electrical, plumbing, roofing all of it.

The time and effort and cost was not considered in making this rig, I know that I could have paid to have done cheaper, faster, and probably better than I can do it and I could have focused my time on other items. But I guess I want to do it myself. Sort of like a rite of passage.


Cheap and fast won't be good.
Good and fast won't be cheap.
Cheap and good won't be fast...


I looked at the options and thought I can make something to do this job with. I just want to try to do it myself and I want to feel like I gave it a fair shot. I am so eat up with excitement that I want to quit paying work and just do this work. My dad offered to get me a well and I said just give me a chance. I CAN DO THIS...

At the start of my project, I spoke to several well drillers, and even went so far as to stop by and ask if I could buy a rig that I saw from the road that was from long ago not being used and rusting away. One guy did not want to sell anything or give me any advice other than yeah right and a snicker and he was just plain cold. He probably thought I was a crazy yuppie... I then asked to buy well screen and they would not even sell that or tell me where to go and get it... Like getting well screen is some industry secret. Another guy flat out laughed and said it would not work. I decided at that point in time that no matter what it takes I will do this.

I will find out if my determination is enough to complete the project or If my temper overloaded my a double s.

I have always helped people when they want to do grading or concrete work themselves, I will even tell them how to do it if they need direction. I will come in and do a portion of the work if they need help. It does not matter to me. Everyone's reasons and money for what they do are different, and I have learned not to stand in the way but to help move forward. I have received a lot of work because of my attitude. I have been chosen to do work not because my price was the cheapest but because I would sit and have a conversation and answer questions that customers had.

I have been hoping that someone with experience would jump on and correct any shortcomings I might have. I hate learning everything the hardway.

 

[Welder Dave]

The MF165 is also a great tractor. The US only MF150 is probably the best of the 3 cylinder models. It's basically a 135 engine in a 165 chassis with heavier front end and better power steering. Mine has everything but power steering but have read there were some issues with the power steering models. In late 1971 the UK models got a heavier straight front axle. They were made up to 1979 in the UK. The replacements were basically the same thing. I've read the AD3-152 is the most popular engine ever put in a tractor.

 

[Legdoc]

Here is a couple pics of the hydraulic motor I plan to use on my rig. I hear you on trying to steer clear of "the hard way". While there is certainly a learning curve it is all pretty simple. Safety precautions regarding over head equipment, pinched hands and fingers must be adhered to. I can not overstate the importance of drilling fluid management. As I mentioned in a previous post fluid volume, pressure and viscosity is of paramount importance. One needs to be able to capture and examine the cuttings as they exit the bore hole. Additionally, one needs a settling pit for the cuttings to "settle " out that the lighter fluid over flows into to be recirculated back into the hole. One other "biggie" is some type of slip set-up to hold the drill string while making or breaking a connection or tripping in or out. You certainly don't want to drop the drill string, bit, stabilizer, reamer, etc. There are quite a few videos on this. Having a pressure gauge and a valve on your derrick top drive assembly hydraulic circuit that is plumbed to monitor the pressure, let gravity pull the drill string in while feathering the flow to control bit weight.

 

[Georgia Iron]

Here is a couple pics of the hydraulic motor I plan to use on my rig. I hear you on trying to steer clear of "the hard way". While there is certainly a learning curve it is all pretty simple. Safety precautions regarding over head equipment, pinched hands and fingers must be adhered to. I can not overstate the importance of drilling fluid management. As I mentioned in a previous post fluid volume, pressure and viscosity is of paramount importance. One needs to be able to capture and examine the cuttings as they exit the bore hole. Additionally, one needs a settling pit for the cuttings to "settle " out that the lighter fluid over flows into to be recirculated back into the hole. One other "biggie" is some type of slip set-up to hold the drill string while making or breaking a connection or tripping in or out. You certainly don't want to drop the drill string, bit, stabilizer, reamer, etc. There are quite a few videos on this. Having a pressure gauge and a valve on your derrick top drive assembly hydraulic circuit that is plumbed to monitor the pressure, let gravity pull the drill string in while feathering the flow to control bit weight.

That looks like a nice strong motor. I am hoping to overcome the fluid problems by sucking out the mud with an air lift pump. Once I build a protype I will post it up.

 

[Welder Dave]

You could look at some Lowe post hole power heads. They have some for bigger machines.

 

[Georgia Iron]

Here is a trailer mount rig that a friend sent me photos of.




I did not get to see this in operation. But they were able to install several wells with this. He uses 2" electrical ridged pipe for his drill string. Stated that is long and the ends are machined straight and that it bores straight down. He got a large quanity of it for a reduced price. It is $84.00 each at home depot now. I think he got it for $20.00 each back in the day...

He thought that my used drill stem is a bad idea because the hole might start to curve as it goes down due to bent stem. This rig could be powered with a tractor or a skid steers hydraulics. He said that it takes 3 men to run it. One to drill, one to deal with the airlift and one helper. Stated that he could hit a 150' deep in a few hours as long as no hard rock.

It uses an electric winch and an airlift to remove the cuttings. And he used a wheel motor off a genie lift i think..

 

[Legdoc]

I am not familiar with a "air lift pump". Is this drilling with compressed air?

 

[Georgia Iron]

I am not familiar with a "air lift pump". Is this drilling with compressed air?

In a round about way. Technically it would be pumping with air.

You use air pressure to lift the cuttings and water out of the hole. The simple way to do it is follow right behind the auger with about and 1.5" pvc pipe with an airline attached to it about 1' off the bottom.

One guy on YouTube said

@hoyofernando8 years ago
Dust Devil Commercial divers use the Air lift for dredging, and it works great, as it can handle large volumes of solids, mud and sand. I worked on dredgin projects moving more tan 10,000 m3 of material from the seabed

Airlift pump - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

 

[Legdoc]

Here are several pics of the bit, reamer and swivel for my project.

 

[Georgia Iron]

Legdoc,

Is that a bit that you made?

 

[Legdoc]

I purchased the bit, reamer and swivel. I made the subs out of 4140.

 

[Georgia Iron]

I decide to make the mast taller.

 

[Georgia Iron]

The mast is 24' tall now. It seems really tall. But in order for me to be able to go 2 drill stems it is what I need. So a day and a half later here we go.



Now I am working on the top. Setting pulleys and preparing the head for the winch line.

 

[Georgia Iron]

I tested the 2 stage main lift cylinder, it will lift the drill head to 16'
And it will push the top of the cylinder to 24'.

I was concerned that the cylinder would need an extra support in the middle as it moves up. It definitely will. The cylinder will top out and touch the top of the mast, this causes the cylinder to bend in the middle and show its flex.

 

[Georgia Iron]

Anyone make there own Hydraulic hoses, it looks like I am going to need a few.

I happened to be at the hydraulic hoses place when a concrete truck mechanic came in and got 2 20' long 3/8s hoses gates sae100-6. 5000 psi The bill was $1000.00. I guess it was over $20.00 per foot.

I could not believe how much it was. I called royal brass and hose and they want $13.00 per foot for just the hose.


Ebay has some cheap r2 hoses but I do not have a way to put on Fittings. Nor do I know if it is worth buying. It is about 1.00 a foot

The main long hoses, I got off the boom lift are 11000 psi non conducting and they have cracks and are seeping fluid. Just found out when testing the snd stage lift.

I have been looking for a solution for my drill motor lines and the second stage lift lines. A lot of moment in those parts. I was thinking of buying some 1/2 galvanized gas line at home depot welding on some ends and attempt to cut hoses lengths down. It is not looking good. I need 4 hoses to be able to go close to the top of the mast.


The boom lift had some 45% degree compression 3/8's steel lines with jic#6 ends on it. I have not been able to source that line for an affordable price either.

Any suggestions?

 

[Welder Dave]

Galvanized isn't supposed to be good for hyd. systems and I don't know if gas line would be good for hyd's. I'd guess 3/8" 5000 PSI is a special hose. If you're running around 2500 PSI standard 2 wire hose should be fine.

 

[Birken Vogt]

Schedule 80 or 120 black iron pipe and heavy or hydraulic type fittings are probably more affordable. Somebody more knowledgeable will have to chime in on pressure ratings for those.

 

[Welder Dave]

Even hyd. tubing with flared ends might not be too much if it doesn't need any fancy bends and you have a good hyd. shop near by.