My Komatsu PC50UU-1 Engine swap W/Pics

[djbobo]

Had to ditch the belt cooling fan.
Found a slim electric pusher fan and squeezed it between the radiator and hydraulic S turned return
line. I guess tats Komatsu's idea of cooling the hydraulics : )

 

[djbobo]

I was curious how much the hydraulic fluid actually cooled so I put a thermostat on each side of the squiggly pipe to see if spending all that time cutting it in two (twice) and rewelding it was worth keeping it.

 

[djbobo]

Here's the electric slim radiator fan I had to use to make room for the extra cylinder.

 

[djbobo]

I found that the 3 hydraulic pump hoses were a metric size that was hard for me to procure.
So I welded collars on the manifolds so I could use easily sourced suction rubber hoses.

 

[djbobo]

Rigged up this to help weld it up up.

Notice the bearing carousal plate under the chuck.
Now I could weld it continuously all the way around non stop.

No leaks the first time!

 

[djbobo]

I couldn't bend this pipe manually. (I need more tools!)
This stupid pipe took multiple dry fits and lots of little mods to make room for that radiator.
It was way thicker than I thought.
This little tractor is stout.
For ex.

 

[djbobo]

A pic of the battery holders base plate.
I had to sacrifice the nice factory canister air filter

 

[uffex]

Good day
Nice work clearly you are a resourcefull kind of guy.
Kind regards
Uffex

 

[djbobo]

Next Up Fuel System
We all know that almost all no starts are caused by fuel issues!!

So I set up this
Super Cool Fuel/Pump and Filter set-up.

I added an electric pump and kept the Mechanical.
I can switch back and forth with (2) 3-way valves.
The engine mounted filter is a smaller 10 micron that needed replacing way to often, so I added a marine Racor 30 micron pre-filter with a top screw cap accessible drop-in cartridge.

Teaser;



I threw in a couple of check valves to help keep lines primed.
Note 3 return lines.

IP=Injection Pump
CV=Check Valve
NV= Needle Valve (More about that later)

I can now circulate fuel through the 30micron filter (F1) with its water separator right back to the tank.
This can be done with either pump. It's handy using the electric pump to do this without the engine running. The standby pump will be 30 micron fuel polishing continually. Loving it so far.

That 10 micron filter (F2) is now lasting way, way longer.

Yes, I'm wearing socks only!

 

[djbobo]

10 Micron engine mounted Filter





Look at those rear relocated engine iso mounts with that custom crossbar.

 

[djbobo]

One more angle for those rear mounts.

 

[djbobo]

Okay, Back to the fuel system.

The electric pump has a built in screen (80 Micron).
Serves no purpose since it's after the 30 micron filter.
Well, maybe if something lets go in that Racor filter I guess it would catch all the big stuff.

Installed;


Since the pumps are after the Racor, I installed the filter gauge to monitor the vacuum pressure present in the filter element.
I told you this was super cool!

 

[djbobo]

Remember that both fuel pumps will draw through the Racor when the electric pump is running.
This filter gauge shows allowable readings for either 1 or both pumps running.

 

[djbobo]

Here's the mechanical lift pump on the Thermo King (DI-2) engine.
Shown with new primer pump and banjo bolt to barb fitting.

 

[djbobo]

Oil and fuel pressure gauges added.
Note the needle valve on the fuel line that bleeds off too high of pressure
to the injector pump. Poor mans regulator.