My D6D

[Queenslander]

16 inches for the month here.
Probably a record for November, well over half our yearly average, although short of record flood levels.
Getting plenty of practice pulling up creek crossings…no one’s complaining though.

 

[Pony]

Yeah, we're like rc, no big heavy falls just good steady rain.
Biggest fall was only 65mm (260pts), mum checked back through her records, biggest single fall since 2013 floods.
Not all dams are full yet, couple of weeks of dry to give the grass a hit and get the branding done and bring it back in for Christmas.

 

[.RC.]

Well I have been back into driving it again however it has an intermittent transmission issue. It has always had it but seems to be getting less intermittent.

The symptoms are when the transmission oil is over halfway into the green and I am say in second gear heading down a gradient at half revs, when I finish going forward and go to reverse, put it into reverse, what speed does not matter, it does not make the usual little squeal as the direction clutch engages, instead the transmission when given slight revs makes a noise like the gears are rotating but there is either no movement, or a very weak movement.

Putting it back to neutral and then into gear usually fixes it (changing speeds does nothing), but the hotter the oil the more it happens and then sometimes it will happen going reverse to forward but not as common.

It is nearly like the directional clutch fails to engage properly.

When the oil is cool it changes gear snappily, however it has always been slower engaging reverse then forward by a fraction of a second. Forward direction it nearly clunks in. Reverse when cool oil it takes that fraction longer because you can hear the clutch engage, and the hotter the oil the longer it takes.

There has been no metal or debris on the magnet/filters at all.

 

[DMiller]

That sounds as Clutch Pack seals are dying. Hours on machine? Hours on current trans oil? Seals condition will not necessarily show as particulates in the oil just sluggish shift and will eventually stop engaging altogether, often at a least opportune point in time.

 

[.RC.]

I was hoping it was more a valve or pump problem, or someone might say. Oh yes it is most likely such and such other then clutch seals. But I guess these machines are now that old, the people who used to work on them are all very old and suffering from senility in a nursing home.

I guess a pressure test is the first order of call.

 

[Nige]

Have you looked into the possibility of an air leak on the pump suction side.? What grade of oil are you using in it.?

 

[.RC.]

It is Cat TDTO 30 oil. I did think of an air leak, but it mostly affects the reverse directional clutch, and the steering/brakes are not affected. But when the clutch decides to go in. It makes the normal noise. I see the book says the directional clutches are supposed to be from memory 55psi below speed clutch pressure.

 

[Nige]

In that case get gauges on P1 & P2 and run them to the somewhere where you can see them. Observe the behaviour of the pressures when the problem occurs.

 

[.RC.]

I have not got gauges yet to do any tests, but am leaning to a valve problem of some sort.

Running it today it only happened once. But doing some playing around putting it into gear at idle and you can feel a definite two stages of it engaging the directional clutch. Putting it into gear it happens quickly but you can see the tracks take an ever so slight movement in the direction you have engaged, then very soon after it makes the jolt as the clutch fully engages and it stalls the torque converter.

So it is like the directional clutch gets slightly engaged initially, then fully engages. It is the second fully engage that never happens when it plays up. When it is playing up, changing speeds does nothing other then change speed clutches. You have to go to neutral first, then choose a direction to fix it when it plays up.

I will probably make sure the direction spool valves are correctly adjusted first with the detent.

Just I prefer driving it to fixing it and now the air con is low on gas again.

As us mere mortals who are not licenced can not buy R134A in Australia because it kills baby pandas if you put it in an air con system, buy bizarrely buying it in a freeze spray can and spraying it into the air is fine. I am going to put an propane alternative gas in it I think.

 

[.RC.]

Well it has been too dry to be driving it so I have done nothing about testing pressures, and busy spending money on feeding cows rather then diesel.

So while I wait for parts to fix the air con, a front idler has decided to start leaking. It was only a fifteen minute job to pull it off and anyway I have to check the tightness of the final drive bearings since they should be seated properly now with a few hours since the rebuild and that is easier done with the track broken.

Not being too familiar with leaking seals, I am not sure if it was leaking from the o-ring or the duo cone seal itself. The seal looks unmarked scratch wise. The oil inside is pretty black.

I ordered two sets of new seals anyway. They are pretty reasonably priced aftermarket.

 

[Pony]

What's that green stuff on the ground?

 

[.RC.]

Where the radiator got washed out.

 

[Pony]

You get any over the last couple of days?
Bit patchy around here, one block got an inch and another 10km away only 9mm.

 

[.RC.]

12mm or so. Very patchy here as well, as in most got nothing.

 

[.RC.]

I reckon you would have to be a special breed of retarded neanderthal dickhead to actually loctite o-ring air con fittings together.

So now I have cracked the evaporator piping trying to get the fittings apart because some cockhead used loctite on them.

 

[1693TA]

I've had that problem with someone using a sealer of some sort on the aluminum fittings of air conditioners several times. Have replaced many line sets and condenser coils because of it too. I purchased a press and selection of fittings with the auto parts store carrying hose to ease the cost burden.

 

[.RC.]

Lucky the evaporator piping is all copper, silver soldered together.

Got that fixed, got some more fittings apart. Vacuumed it out, and charged it up and I have cold air again finally it is fixed, and the grass is very green and to top off the day our leftie dumb useless pile of **** state premier resigned today. Was a good productive day today.

Here is a photo of one of the fittings.

 

[Tones]

Careful what you wish for RC. There's some terrible leftards waiting in the wings who'll joyfully continue the rape and pillage of this state.

 

[.RC.]

Oh don't worry, I know the two who want the job are left of Stalin, but with an election next year and them already unpopular.

I want cameron dick to get the job, only because of my 12 year old brain and the memes and innuendo fun that could be had.

Think of the election slogans. "95% of women and 25% of men admit they like dick."

 

[.RC.]

Well I spoke with a couple more locals today and was told that a double dose of velpar will kill dogwood/corkwood wattle (yeah you're right RC it is the stuff with the thorns), this wasn't going to work for me as I want to be selective in what I kill, (this also rules out any pellets Queenslander).
So I checked out RC's, Cropyralid, I found out that it is recommended to kill acacia at a dilution rate of 1-9 by stem injection.
So I bought a drum and spent today chopping.
I'll let you know if it works, along with the velpar at regular rates, I've already done, in 12 mths or so time.

Well here you go Pony, something else for you to try, once you get over the shock of the price. Around $1000 for ten litres. You can spray it, cut stump and stem inject it.

Method 240SL. Just recently become available in Australia so I picked up 10 litres to try.

I was impressed by it's use on a golf course green in the USA, were it managed to be like Velpar and kill all the trees as well as what they were really spraying for via root uptake. Of course being the USA they sued and the chemical got temporarily taken off the market. So hopefully a chemical that good might be a game changer for us.