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My D6D

Discussion in 'Dozers' started by .RC., Apr 16, 2020.

  1. .RC.

    .RC. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2012
    Messages:
    177
    Location:
    Qld, Australia
    This turned up this week. It is an upgrade from our D4D.

    Has air cab that works, it is a PC engine. Has obviously done quite a bit of work. The blade linkages all need work as there is a fair bit of slop. Undercarriage is in quite good order. I would say the SALT links are 70%. Grousers 90%+ and the bottom roller the same. Rippers could do with a line bore but will suffice for the time being.

    Strange thing is it has a modern S/N plate attached

    New radiator and 90% of the hoses are new. One F/D has had work by the gasket goo around the case and the transmission has a new coat of paint on it so it has been out at some point. Seems to run quite fine. Changes gear nicely. Put a magnet on a stick in the F/D compartments and not even any big chunks of gear teeth, not even any grey fuzz. :D No major oil leaks. Just a few weeps. One lift ram needs resealing, although sadly the chrome is in excellent condition except for one tiny spot. 20200416_164755.jpg 20200416_164107.jpg 20200416_164040.jpg

    Even came with a dent on the muffler. Some of the glass screens have been replaced with perspex which I know will not last long due to scratches, it will soon not be visible to look through.

    All in all it seems a decent machine for something ~40 years old and been used. I would have liked something newer quite new was well out of the budget and something from the 2000 period would be full of electronics on their way out. I am of the opinion the D6D would probably be one of the most common older models with the best parts availability, given they were still making a variant of it until just a few years ago.
     
  2. Queenslander

    Queenslander Senior Member

    Joined:
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    928
    Location:
    Australia
    Nice find RC.
    Iam certain that you won’t have trouble sourcing parts and that is the biggest advantage this tractor will have over the 14C you were considering.
    Have you used Partstore before?
    It can be very interesting poking around there checking prices and availability.
     
  3. .RC.

    .RC. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2012
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    177
    Location:
    Qld, Australia
    No, I have not used any cat online store. Years ago I went to open an account to get access to online parts and they wanted to know everything about me down to what machines I owned and how much money was owing on them. So I never went ahead with it.

    I am chasing a stickrake for this machine now. They are not exactly cheap these days. I do have most of the track frame guards, all the guards are stripped off it at the moment as it has been getting a bath.
     
  4. Queenslander

    Queenslander Senior Member

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    I’ll keep an eye out for you.
    What width are you thinking..18ft maybe?
     
  5. MattR

    MattR Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2010
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    Location:
    Michigan
    We have repaired badly scored and damaged chrome with JB weld with excellent results.
     
  6. .RC.

    .RC. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2012
    Messages:
    177
    Location:
    Qld, Australia
    Not sure about stickrake width. around 16 ft minimum maybe up to 18 foot depending on weight. Looking at a korean made one that is imported at the moment. Do not want one too heavy as it puts too much weight on the front idlers.

    Be interesting to see how the JB weld would stand up. The rams are not scored, just a bit of flaking right at the end of travel.
     
  7. .RC.

    .RC. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Qld, Australia
    Yes it is quite interesting, especially the prices. It is also interesting the lack of simple cheap maintenance that is not done. The hydraulic control linkages on this machine have a lot of slop. In fact I am not sure how people used it successfully with so much slop. So I look for replacement linkages and they are AU$18 each, so I ordered them. Only need a few. But on the other side the transmission control is nice and tight. There is in fact minimal wear on the transmission control aluminium U slot for the hours it appears to have done. I was looking at one D6D and it did not have a clean U, but was closer to a V shape.

    I also had a sticky at prices for parts for more modern machines, thinking they would be cheaper due to better design. Would not like a catastrophic failure to happen to a D6N final drive as a D6M or D6N size machine would be one I would have gone for had I had more $ to spend. They look to be just as pricey to repair, although they probably should last twice as long as planetary gears seem to go and go and go if well designed (unlike the ones on the mitsubishi MG400 grader).
     
  8. Metalman 55

    Metalman 55 Senior Member

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    Messages:
    1,164
    Location:
    Ontario
    Here is a root rake that we made for our D6C a few years ago. I know that down under you tend to make them much wider than us, so perhaps this idea is out.
     

    Attached Files:

    doublewide, 56wrench and DB2 like this.
  9. .RC.

    .RC. Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Qld, Australia
    Yea metalman, those sort that I see in use in the US are not real useful for what we do here.




    Decided to order one of the Korean made ones that are sold by a mob in Brisbane, saved a few $ by ordering one without a tree spear. It should fit pretty much straight onto this 6S blade. Has wings which will make it easier for transportation on a truck. It is not a Gessner or Homan but should do.
     
  10. Queenslander

    Queenslander Senior Member

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    I think I know the mob you’re talking about.
    I don’t like the look of the pushers either but the rakes look impressive.
    Are you a fan of a cutterbar in your rake?
     
  11. .RC.

    .RC. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Qld, Australia
    I will probably weld in a suckerbar. Have not used a rake without one, but I have not used many different styles of rake either.

    Have given the dozer a good run yesterday. Seems to run fine. Transmission has a clunk when changing direction when the machine is still slightly moving. No noise when at idle and machine stopped and putting it into gear. No clunk when changing speeds. It has been a long time since I ran a bigger powershift machine so I expect different noises then our nice quiet tiny D4D has. I expect the enclosed cab is quite good at amplifying sounds, since it sits on top of the transmission and has no sound deadening or insulating materials. Saw a video on youtube and the D6D there made pretty much the same noises at 48 seconds
     
  12. Rusted

    Rusted Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Australia
    Hate to see guys using the brake pedals as a foot rest.
     
    balls2go and bccat like this.
  13. .RC.

    .RC. Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    I am not sure why they would, it would be an awkward position to hold your leg, and there is a perfectly good footrest on the floor.
     
  14. R.D.G013

    R.D.G013 Well-Known Member

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    Occupation:
    Heavy equipment operator/foreman for about 48yrs o
    Location:
    sunshine coast qld australia
     
  15. R.D.G013

    R.D.G013 Well-Known Member

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    Heavy equipment operator/foreman for about 48yrs o
    Location:
    sunshine coast qld australia
    The D 6D I had with the hyd linkages I drilled and tapped threads in the bell cranks and fitted grease nipples in them, a shot of grease every now and then made them a lot easier to use.
     
  16. .RC.

    .RC. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2012
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    177
    Location:
    Qld, Australia
    Yea, I found only one fitting is greasable, the one in the engine housing.

    Have given it a good workout, it has one peculiarity. Steering to the left is fine and normal. Pulling the steering lever to the right, the clutch works as it should, the brake section on pulling the hand lever is a bit lazy, especially when cold, and it improves when warm. When cold the lever pulls right to the end of travel and it thinks about turning, then locks up the track after a couple of seconds. I have checked the brake adjustment and is it as it should be.

    But the footbrake is fine for both sides. Pulling the clutch and use the footbrake is the same for both sides. It is just one side with the hand applied brake. I do not have my service manual yet to see what it says, it is somewhere between Oregon and me here.
     
  17. R.D.G013

    R.D.G013 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Occupation:
    Heavy equipment operator/foreman for about 48yrs o
    Location:
    sunshine coast qld australia
    I welded a tongue out of each brake pedal so that you could push both pedals together with one foot was much easier specially when working on down hill slopes as u were using both brakes instead of just one all the time.
     
  18. dozr

    dozr Well-Known Member

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    Occupation:
    excaving
    Location:
    alabama
    who uses brake to stop dozer what is the blade for, very little wear there always have hand on lever and replaceable edge with out pulling tank and steering top.
     
  19. 56wrench

    56wrench Senior Member

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    Location:
    alberta
    i do. in steep hills you need everything, sometimes all at once, especially when doing brush work
     
    balls2go and DB2 like this.
  20. John C.

    John C. Senior Member

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    Occupation:
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    Serial number check shows your machine to be a 1977 model. The tag says duplicate and the position of the rivets is kind of odd. Looks like a decent mule for the farm.