I have the same problem with mine. I also paid a $1000.00 for mine with a bad motor. I changed the filter helped a little. I'm going to check the vent someone reduced it to a 1/8 pipe vent and it looks plugged up.I recently purchased a Case 580C (unsure of year model due to the serial plate appearing to have rusted away but Im thinking its a newer model as all of the cylinders have single pistons in them and it is a power shuttle). We got it for $1000 and after checking all fluids and topping off the hydraulic oil and the shuttle oil was able to but a good battery in it and fire it up fold up and lock the backhoe up while it was pouring oil out of one of the boom cylinders and drive it onto a trailer and haul it home. I purchased a seal kit that had seals for all of the cylinders minus the two steering cylinders but I also ordered them as well. I repacked both boom cylinders and all four cylinders on the loader, replaced one of the long metal lines that runs down the loader frame and brazed up a pin hole in one of the curl cylinder lines. This got me to the point that I am at now which allowed me to at least dig a hole to bury two dead cows. There are still a few small leaks that need attention and most of those will be taken care of by rebuilding the remainder of the cylinders. Also the ranch hand at the ranch we bought it from said the motor had been rebuilt sometime in the last ten years and did not have very many hours on it.
With all of that being said while digging the hole it seemed to lack digging power. If only using one function it seemed to be decent but not great and if you tried to move say the boom and the dipper together it would just stop unless it was a very small cut, It also was very slow to pick up a full bucket of wet material from the bottom of the hole. The bucket curl by it self seemed to have plenty of power. I have not had a chance to use the front end loader yet so I can not say how well it is working.
I have clicked through almost every page in the backhoe forum and tried to read through every thread that appeared to have to do with 580C's and some that didn't. With that being said the first thing that I am going to check is the pressure on the discharge line form the pump as a starting point and go from there(found a thread from 2013 that explained how to do this). My question for now is were else do I need to check pressures at and what other things should I check to figure out were the issue may be.
Just as a back ground/reason we bought the backhoe I work full time and run cows on the side with my dad an there have been plenty of times on the ranch were we really could have used a backhoe and when I came across this one it was to cheap to pass up. We have 500 acres and run about 120 head of cows and that keeps us busy enough so be patient with me as I do not get the chance to go work on the backhoe every day.
Is #4 what you are asking about ?
Parts book link ---->https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...-only/cn/6E729144-8FBF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
Yes but mine is actually like 4A. Here are a couple better pics.
I used bondo products from auto zone. On the flat sides I layed parchment paer down on the floor then set the dash on that then worked from the inside. Sand everything first then apply some resin and either cloth or mat and repeat till built up enough. Then on the outside I used a little body filler were needed to smooth it off. Mine is far from perfect but much better. The resin does not stick to the parchment paper.Nice work.
What products/procedure did you use to repair the dash? I was concerned it wasn't 100% fiberglass. Some molded products are hard to get a patch to stick too.
Mine is in poor shape and the local wrecking yard dashes are worse.
Steve
Thanks that is exactly what I was thinking it should look like. I have the j spring but like I said someone either weld a pin in there at some point our it came from the factory like that but as of right now there is not a pin there as it has rotted away or wore away so there is nothing pushing against the j spring.I welded the holes shut and drilled it for a coiled spring pin. This is what the assembly looks like. You will need to buy the J-shaped spring. It holds the detent for neutral.
Steve
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