Manhours needed to replace steering brakes and drive clutch discs on d3b 23y?

[Chief Jim]

PLease tell me how many man hours would be required to change the steering brake bands and check/ replace the drive cutches on a 1988 Cat D3B 23Y 0567 ? It has 2250 hours on it.:usa
Thanks,
Jim
cooneycreekfarm@hughes.net

 

[ohiofleet]

where are you in ohio

 

[komatkaze]

PLease tell me how many man hours would be required to change the steering brake bands and check/ replace the drive cutches on a 1988 Cat D3B 23Y 0567 ? It has 2250 hours on it.:usa
Thanks,
Jim
cooneycreekfarm@hughes.net

40 hours, not sure what you're fishing for, customer looking for price? 4 grand if thats's what you need.

 

[Chief Jim]

* miles East of Wheelersburg. 18 from Portsmouth. 13 from Ironton.

 

[Chief Jim]

I am trying to get an estimate so I know how much it will cost me to get my little D3B fixed. i got another farm and bunches of fence lines, roads and springs to build. Plus a 100 or so scres of hillside to clean up from logging for pastures. You talking 4 grand US or Canadia? 40 hours. Thank you.

 

[wosama931b]

Hi Chief Jim, The D3b is the same as the 931b i think, not to bad to remove if you know what your doing, are both sides bad?? On mine the clutch slave bracket,s
were loose, and the lobes and bearings were worn. Ck that first, good luck, Sam.

 

[Chief Jim]

Hi Chief Jim, The D3b is the same as the 931b i think, not to bad to remove if you know what your doing, are both sides bad?? On mine the clutch slave bracket,s
were loose, and the lobes and bearings were worn. Ck that first, good luck, Sam.

Left is worse than right. How many hours on your machine? I have no idea what the 931B is. Have to look it up. I about choked on the Repair Manual from cat 371 bucks. E bay, guy wants 330 something. Any of you guys Got one for cheap? The serial number is 23 Y 0- - - -. Dry system. What would be the complexity and cost to change over to wet clutches and brake bands? just a thought.

Thanks SAM> I am going to have a fella that works heavy equipment and has a good facility do the work. Gotta get the manual quick.

 

[wosama931b]

Hi Chief Jim, If you look in the Track Loader threads you will find the photo of my clutch and brake repair. That should help you some, i got my repair manuel on
e-bay, and it was a couple hundred. One thing you can do is go to the nearest Cat Dealer and ask if they will give you a print out from the parts in the clutch area.
I have a set of dry clutches that i purchased, if you have dry clutches, i can UPS them to you, I though mine were dry but they were wet, the notches are bigger
with the dry. I did the work on my machine, when i had a little spare time here and there. If you remove the seat area you can get a real good look at the slave
cylender, it has a lobe that can wear and a bearing on the end, that controls the hyd. to the cylender that moves the yoak in side the clutch box, eighter one of
these parts not working right can make you think that the clutch is bad. sam.

 

[Chief Jim]

Hey Sam,
I understand. Last year, when i got the dozer, I went through the reachable components and replaced both roller bearings, adjusted brake bands, adjusted linkages and all that. We worked pretty hard last year cutting roads for fencing on mean slopes. I even washed out the clutch/ brake chambers with mineral spirits and that was an improvement in the braking function for a while. Now, I believe the brake bands are just worn out on the left side. I have not had any clutch issues to speak of since I only found one bearing bad on the initial investigation. I think my whole problem is worn brake bands. Just want to get that fixed before I wear into the drums.
Thanks, i will take you up on the new clutch discs. It would be stupid to not have everything top notch after all it will take to just get to the bloody brake bands. WHY in the World they make stuff so hard to work on. It would seem a bolted access panel at the rear would be too simple.?! My number is 740)532-8988. Call please. I'll go to the track loader section and check that out.

'Nother subject: I want to make me D3B in to a tool carrier, I cannot afford a MTL ( would like a Cat 277 Hy flow with good tracks and closed cab). Seeing how I have a 1,000 RPM PTO I am thinking of building a seperate hydraulic pack to run enough hydraulics for a forestry mulcher and a wet rotary mower up front. I guess the smart route would be to take the blade off and rig a quick hitch like is on my big Kubota tractor. i have rented the Cat units a few times and they are great. Too many $$$. The object is to cleaR A COUPLE HUNNERT ACRES FROM CLEAR CUTTING TO MAKE PASTURE , GET FENCES BUILT and makes a bunch of spring collections. i have the Shaver post driver, stump grinder, root rake w grapple, bush hogs and post auger. The rubber tired tractor just won't do all I want.
ANy of you guys built up something like that? Here is a picture of my rusty lil dozer.

 

[wosama931b]

Hello Chief Jim, Thats a nice lookin Cat, the brush hog is a good thing to have on the back side. If you can Ck the lever that is under the hump where the brake goes into the case, it could have a big oblong hole in it, it cost about 90 bucks, but a good welder can fix. I did remove my clutch on the left side, took it to the Cat guy
and they looked it over, and it was ok, so i reinstalled it and a new brake band, on the other side a lot of cleaning and installing new To4. There is a diference in the
wet and dry clutctes, I wondered why i did not have a brake adjustment bolt underneith, but i did see thoes drain plugs, and i was sure that the clutches were dry.
I had some crow for breakfast, More talk soon, sam.

 

[equip guy]

Thats a cool set up

 

[87silvert]

I have done the brakes and clutches in one of those that belonged to a friend. It took a couple days to do both sides. It has been about five years, but I recall there was a tapered shaft that I was told you need to press the brake drum? off and back on. I made a tool and hit it with a hammer and then pressed it back on with porta power. A little fuzzy on specifics, sorry. Anyway, I am no top notch mechanic and I got it done and it is still operating good. Oh, now I remember, the failure was due to oil leaks and I replaced the seals too. The job would have been easier to just change the brake bands, in fact real easy. Good luck

 

[Chief Jim]

Sam was generous enough to send me a set of dry discs, I have to put them in JUST BECAUSE!!
However, did you remove the hydraulic and fuel tank ?
Thanks,
Jim.

I have done the brakes and clutches in one of those that belonged to a friend. It took a couple days to do both sides. It has been about five years, but I recall there was a tapered shaft that I was told you need to press the brake drum? off and back on. I made a tool and hit it with a hammer and then pressed it back on with porta power. A little fuzzy on specifics, sorry. Anyway, I am no top notch mechanic and I got it done and it is still operating good. Oh, now I remember, the failure was due to oil leaks and I replaced the seals too. The job would have been easier to just change the brake bands, in fact real easy. Good luck

 

[87silvert]

Sam was generous enough to send me a set of dry discs, I have to put them in JUST BECAUSE!!
However, did you remove the hydraulic and fuel tank ?
Thanks,
Jim.

iirc, i removed the battery box and sheetmetal around it and the seat and all that. the tanks stayed in place.