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Looking HARD at purchasing a 100T portable track pin press......anybody use one and have thoughts??

hosspuller

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Aug 27, 2014
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The main guy doing the work was almost 80 and made us look bad. Used a 20lb sledge to knock a pin out and reinstall.....

Them "old guys" have technique. My 74 year old hay mentor stacked a whole hay wagon behind the baler, alone. The next year, TWO high school "Football players" almost died on the same job.
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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Sucks being the better man at age. I too have swung a Twenty, still have one, do not and did not ever like it. Baled in my teens, did some as a favor to a friend years back and it too like to have killed me, was high heat no clouds and High Humidity with no breezes, we all took a beating that day young or old.
 

Mike L

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I’ve never seen a pin driven out successfully with a hammer. Most of the time we cranked up the press and hid behind the truck. The bad ones we had to crank up the press and smack the top of the frame with a bfh. Sounded like a shotgun going off.
 

Willie B

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Jan 2, 2016
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Mount Tabor VT
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The main guy doing the work was almost 80 and made us look bad. Used a 20lb sledge to knock a pin out and reinstall.....

Them "old guys" have technique. My 74 year old hay mentor stacked a whole hay wagon behind the baler, alone. The next year, TWO high school "Football players" almost died on the same job.
Harold Mathewson was 75 when I was 25. Not tall, but very BIG! He had a John Deere M, twin cylinder small tractor after he sold the farm he mowed the roadsides for the town. It must have been out of time, it kicked like a mule when crank starting. Harold held the crank two handed & the front of the tractor would jump as it kicked!
In an earlier day he bought his hay baler. I don't know the weight of his bales. He had a teenager stacking bales on a wagon built for loose hay. Harold walked out to pick up bales with a hay fork. He would use the fork to offer them up 5-1/2 feet above the ground to be taken by the helper and stacked.
 

Simon C

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Jul 1, 2015
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Rocky Mountain House , AB., Canada
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Georgia Iron: Here is the technique.IMG_12971.jpg
Here is the low budget way to take pins out as per previous posts.
It is important to get grease out of pin if it is center drilled and cross drilled. Grease reacts kind of violently to torching.
This picture is of about a 3-4 inch pin.
To start with we will assume the pin is horizontal. We have to have a catchbasin or dirt hole for the molten steel coming out to fall into cause if it falls on concrete it will pop up and burn you good. You need to have on good leathers, good torch with tip to cut 6 inch plate if that is the length of the pin.
You will need a high output fan behind you aimed at the back of your head to stop the extreme heat coming off the pin from fogging out your glasses. I use a guy with a 1/2 inch air line blowing freeflow at the back of my head from about 4 feet behind me.This is to ensure there will not be any fogging up issue. You will need a garden hose or something similar to shrink the pin the second the torch shuts off.
If it is an non greased pin then proceed with the torch,. however make sure there is no cumbustibles around to burn machine down. If it is a greased pin then blow out the grease and wash passage with a little varsol but this needs to be cleaned before the real job. A wire with a 3/16 bent 90 on the end can be used to find cross drilling by pushing it in and the bent 90 will eventually hit a cross drilled hole..
Move a little ways from the cross drilled hole and this is where the torching will start. Think you will need about 50-60 PSI of oxygen and about 6 pounds of acetylene.
You will be making about a 2 inch circle with the torch. It will require a full 1.25 to 1.75 turns to blow out the opposite end. The first rotation will take about 45 seconds or more to do as a 2inch circle is more than 6 inches in length. It is a good idea to get yourself in a good position first and do a trial cut with no torch on to get the idea in your head, and the feel in your arms. Make sure the air source at the back of your head is sufficient.
It is a good idea to have the hole at a 10 to 20 degree upward slope to help the lava run out, as it will be a fair river coming out. You will be torching very slowly around until you make it to the starting point again. I have had a torch cut out but if the oxygen is still on and the travel speed is slow enough it will keep cutting. Good to do practice run first as I said before. Once finished first revolution keep right on going in same direction for round 2. There will be a tremendous amount of heat at this point and you can start the second turn in same location as first turn without ever stopping.
The last time I did one I hit hardened grease about 4 inches in that caused a few fire balls to shoot out but I kept on melting until the Attempt had failed or so I thought. I did not make it through but had a 2inch hole in the pin 4 inches deep that was red hot. Hit it with the garden hose till cooled right off.
Did a short hole from the opposite side of the pin with same technique and hit the same grease passage but put a sizable hole in pin. Hit it with garden hose also.

Took out a 4 pound hammer and with about 5 taps the pin was out. It shrunk that much from going from red hot to harden hose cold, with about a 2inch hole in it.
The welding foreman and shop foreman were both in disbelief as 75 tons of press at 10000psi did not move it.
I have done the spring hanger pin on an old Mack truck that was about 1.25 inches diameter and 5-6 inches long, and when the first half was burn't out and cooled the pin tapped out easily. We use to burn out 5-6 inch 3/4 hucks at the railroad with the same technique.
Please have a fire extinguisher or 2 on hand and wear all the safety gear.
This is not a substitute for an oxy-lance or bigger press, but unfortunately they do not always fit and I own neither.
Hope this helps.
Simon C
 

OzDozer

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Jan 18, 2007
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Perth, Western Australia.
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I bought a pile of near-new Berco Cat D4 size track chains recently from a port that had some handling experiment going on.
They purchased a pile of these chains, they barely used some and seem to have never used most of them.
Then then set them in a storage yard for about 5 years, then they sold them as scrap. So I fought off a few other interested buyer and won them.

But the link numbers are all over the place, most seem to have 44 links and a couple have 30 links.
I sold 2 sets of chains to 2 different buyers who own old D4C's and they need new tracks, so I need to adjust the track chains to 36 links for these guys.

The last time I set foot in a track shop, they essentially wanted a AU$1000 just to even press out one pin.
The local track shops get spoilt beyond belief with mining companies giving them $100,000 track jobs every day.

I got a quote on turning pins and bushings in a set of D7 a couple of years ago and the track shop quoted AU$11,000 for the job!! What a joke!
Essentially, they indicated they couldn't even be bothered with a D7 pin and bushing turn, seeing as they do several D11 tracks and mining shovel tracks, every week.

With all this in mind, I set out to build my own little portable track press - at low cost.
I knew a salvage guy who had some 50 ton press cylinders for sale, so I went and bought one off him for AU$400.

This cylinder is made in Taiwan and seems pretty well made. It has a 10" (250mm) stroke, so that was what I was mostly interested in.
The cylinder is secured to the base plate by 2 x 12mm HT bolts, there were 2 convenient threaded holes in the base of the cylinder.

I acquired the following to complete the job - some 5mm plate offcuts, 2 x 500mm (18") diameter x 50mm (2") thick pieces of scrap plate, 4 x 36mm high-tensile (grade 8.8) x 1 metre long, threaded rod, and a full box (25) of 36mm nuts.

The 5mm scrap was $1 a kg, the 50mm plate offcuts were high-tensile Bisalloy and cost me $20 for the 2 pieces.
The 4 x threaded rods cost me AU$180, and the box of nuts was AU$65.

I worked out a simple press plates design, and made a cardboard template of the shape I wanted.
I got the 50mm plate plasma cut by a local metal-fabrication company. It took me a while, either no-one wanted to cut it, or they wanted multiple hundreds of dollars to cut it.
The company that ending up cutting the plate, did it for AU$100. Too easy. I even got the remnants back off them.

The plasma cutters did a pretty neat job, accurate to within about 5mm and only needed a small amount of clean-up with the angle grinder.

I bought a Chinese mag drill (AU$250) and a 36mm Chinese carbide annular cutter (AU$36). I used the mag drill and annular cutter to do the 8 holes in the 2 plates that I needed.
Those annular cutters are great, took me about 15mins per hole, taking it easy. The drill even came with a coolant bottle, so I could keep coolant running on the cutter to ensure it kept sharp.

I had to trim the centre hole I had installed in one press plate with a die grinder and a carbide burr to get it to a more accurate shape.
Didn't need a machined finish, just needed it reasonably round, which I achieved with a final cleanup with a drum sander.

I made up a track chain support plate out of the 5mm scrap plate. I used two small blocks of hardwood to set it on, over the threaded rods.
The hardwood blocks protect the threads of the rods, and I can adjust the height of the support plate simply by cutting the blocks to size to match whatever variation of track link I'm working on.

I'm just setting this press up for small tractors, I don't need to work on big tractors any more, this is essentially a hobbyist/farmer/collector setup.
The threaded rods should be good for 100 tonnes, but I'm just using the 50 tonne cylinder at present. If I need to "upgrade", I can always go to a bigger tonnage cylinder, the frame is more than capable.

The final piece of fabrication involved machining up a support collar to support the link against the end plate.
Fortunately, stepdaughters partner just bought himself a nice little Taiwanese lathe, and he kindly offered to machine up the collar.
I cut a piece out of the 50mm scrap plate remnants and he went to town on it with the lathe and made the collar to my template and plans.

The final part was to install a cut-out in the collar to accommodate a reinforcing rib on the link that stopped the collar from giving its full support to the tapered face of the pin boss (see arrow on link photo).
I made this cut-out with the die grinder and a 1/2" carbide burr, and it worked just fine for fit.

Lastly, I cut a couple of pieces of 12mm bar about 185mm long, bent them to about 80° in my portable 20 tonne, 250 mmm (10") wide plate/bar bender, and welded them on to the 500mm plates for lifting eyes.

Yesterday, I went out to my block in the country where the tracks are stored, set up two old benches to hold the chains and the press, lifted the chains into place with my tractor crane - and I'm pleased to report my little press works a treat!

I got 3 pins pressed out before my little Honda-powered air-compressor quit for an unknown reason, possibly a faulty spark plug.
I ran out of time to fix it, I'll get back onto the track chain shortening/lengthening project later in the month. Suffice to say, I've got a track press that works great, it cost me less than AU$1000 all up.

I already had the little Chinese foot-operated press pump, I probably need to upgrade to a large pump unit, as the 1.6 litre capacity of the little foot pump is barely enough for the full stroke of the press cylinder.

I have a spare electric pump with a bigger capacity, I just need to set it up, as it was originally designed to hold off spring-loaded disc brakes on industrial equipment such as conveyors.
 

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OzDozer

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Semi-Retired ..
I must admit, I stole the design off the Chinese track presses I saw photos of on the 'net!! :D

It's a nice feeling to steal something off the Chinese for a change!! LOL

Most of the Chinese ones appear to use only 3 threaded rods. I was going to go with 3 rods until I realised that the 3-rod design crimps the access room for sliding the track chain through, and the plates for 3 rods needed to be a lot bigger (and heavier) - so I went with 4 rods instead. Plus, 4 rods is more strength overall.

I must say I'm very pleased with how it all panned out, and how good it works. Didn't take a whole lot of labour overall, either.
 

Monkeywithawrench

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Nov 8, 2019
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New Hampshire
But still.............you thought about it, planned it out, sourced out the plates and who to have cut them.............AND THEN FOLLOWED THROUGH!! So much more satisfying when you use something you put together yourseld.........AND IT WORKS!! Again, nice job...........
I tried putting to together a C press w/ a 60T double acting hollow cylinder. Used 3/4" plate.........didn't turn out the way I wanted and ultimately it didn't work. So I went the easy route and bought a 100T C press. My homemade C press is still laying on the ground mocking me.........LOL.
 

Simon C

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Rocky Mountain House , AB., Canada
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Excellent Job on Your Build.
With very little modification you could adapt that for up to D7 or D8. Like your adjustable wood block trick to adjust the bed height for different height track centers. On the side the pin comes out looks like you could easily modify end plate for bigger pins.
How many inches is there from centre to centre of your 36mm rods. looks like close to 12 inches.
Could not of done a better job.
Congratulations
Simon C
 

digger doug

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But still.............you thought about it, planned it out, sourced out the plates and who to have cut them.............AND THEN FOLLOWED THROUGH!! So much more satisfying when you use something you put together yourseld.........AND IT WORKS!! Again, nice job...........
I tried putting to together a C press w/ a 60T double acting hollow cylinder. Used 3/4" plate.........didn't turn out the way I wanted and ultimately it didn't work. So I went the easy route and bought a 100T C press. My homemade C press is still laying on the ground mocking me.........LOL.
No worries, most people don't use enough plate.
There's a reason why the store bought track presses are that heavy.
 

OzDozer

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Jan 18, 2007
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Perth, Western Australia.
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Semi-Retired ..
Simon C - I haven't measured exactly, but the threaded rods are 1 metre long overall, that is a standard size available to purchase. I remember I did some quick calculations (don't know where I put the piece of paper now) just to ensure I had enough room to get full stroke on the cylinder with the track links in place.
I can push the pins right out of the links, and still have an inch or so left on the cylinders 10" stroke.

The pin hole in the end plate is 55mm or just over 2-1/4", so yes, I could do bigger track links, but I wouldn't like to try and do whole D8 tracks, the way I'm doing the D4 size ones - but I guess I could hold the press over the track frame, and do a single D8 track pin with it.

Digger Doug - You're not wrong on needing the metal thickness, especially when the tonnage is getting right up to big numbers. I weighed every part of my press, and this is what I got....

50mm (2") end plate with hole .................. 32kgs (70lbs)

50mm (2") endplate attached to cylinder ... 33kgs (73lbs)

24 x 36mm (1.417") nuts .......................... 16kgs (35lbs)

4 x 36 threaded rods ................................. 24kgs (53lbs)

50 tonne cylinder ...................................... 31kgs (68lbs)

All-up weight ........................................... 136kgs (300lbs)

I can disassemble the press and handle every part by hand, but when assembled, it's a crane job to move it around!
Interestingly, I have a smaller C-shape frame made from a single piece of 1-1/4" plate that I used many years ago, to press pins out of a hydraulic jump arm Shearer plow.

I put my 20 tonne Enerpac porto-power in that C frame with some of the above D4 pitch track links, and the C-frame started to buckle at the knees, and the porto-power was near its limit, and those D4 pins still showed no sign of moving!
I reckon I was getting up to close on 40 tonnes pressure with this 50 tonne cylinder before these pins moved, so even smaller track pins take a lot of tonnage to move.

Can't believe I knocked out and in, so many D7 track pins when I was younger, with just a sledgehammer!
But I was much younger and fitter then, too - and we generally ran a team of 2 or 3 guys on the sledgehammer to keep up the beating effort!
 
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