Welder Dave
Senior Member
What's all the yellowy gold coloured stuff in there?
All the pumps can be pulled to be inspected. Just make sure to mark them to return them to the same cylinder if you are reusing them. They are calibrated so the ECU knows which pump is in which hole.
As for pulling the engine, that is entirely up to you. It gets removed out the rear end. If someone had asked me if they should buy a "D" series that does not start I would have recommended against it. Now that your committed and after I saw your picture of the rocker arm area I would suggest pulling that engine, completely tear it down and clean it thoroughly. After the engine was out I would remove the fuel tank to clean that too. I also wouldn't attempt any engine work without acquiring the manual CTM101019. If you go that route then I would replace all the pumps and injectors. Bear in mind if that is done then the pumps need to be calibrated (lots of numbers would have to be taken off the pumps). So a dealer tech would have to do that unless you know someone with the TEXA software. Also a dealer tech would be required to check cam timing due to the special tools required.
At this point I'll bow out. Good Luck! If you have any other questions shout out.
what's the best way to do that?
Thanks for the fast reply, we actually build one complete engine from the 2, we had so many missing parts, skid steer(1) we using the entire engine but pumps and ECU are from skid steer(2) cuz skid steer (1) didn't have them and was the most complete one to assembly, I'll get you the pictures of the engine and chassis from the donor skid steer which we took the ecu and pumpsWelcome to HEF panaceirl!
Before assembly, the dealer could have given you the numbers off the injection pumps and which cylinder they were assigned to from the machine or engine serial number. Now you would have to open up the engine and remove the pumps to get the numbers. I don't believe all the numbers can be seen with them installed. Then once you have the numbers off the pumps and which cylinder they are being installed in, then you need either the dealer, or maybe someone with Service Advisor, Texa or Jaltest diagnostic software to calibrate them. Make sure to not swap ECU's. Keep the original ECU with its original engine.
Also, since the engine was apart and reassembled, did you collapse the lifters. If you did not then you will most likely bend one on startup. They have to be collapsed every time the rockers are removed.
If you give me the machine serial number and the engine serial number I can tell you which pumps are supposed to be in what cylinder when it was originally built (so long as someone has not swapped them in the past).
And yes we drained the lifters according to manual before installing the rocker arms, since we got the engines already disassembled we didn't know which pumps came out of their respective cylinders,Welcome to HEF panaceirl!
Before assembly, the dealer could have given you the numbers off the injection pumps and which cylinder they were assigned to from the machine or engine serial number. Now you would have to open up the engine and remove the pumps to get the numbers. I don't believe all the numbers can be seen with them installed. Then once you have the numbers off the pumps and which cylinder they are being installed in, then you need either the dealer, or maybe someone with Service Advisor, Texa or Jaltest diagnostic software to calibrate them. Make sure to not swap ECU's. Keep the original ECU with its original engine.
Also, since the engine was apart and reassembled, did you collapse the lifters. If you did not then you will most likely bend one on startup. They have to be collapsed every time the rockers are removed.
If you give me the machine serial number and the engine serial number I can tell you which pumps are supposed to be in what cylinder when it was originally built (so long as someone has not swapped them in the past).
I know it's an old thread. I have an electronic 4024 in a generator. I'm getting the 80 volt injection waveform to all cylinders but have not had the time to verify it's in time. Site is a long way away and time on site was limited. I have confirmed the low fuel pressure side is supplying the 30 PSI into the head. I'm getting no fuel out the unit pumps ( I removed the line between the pump and nozzle) have you seen a slipped cam gear result in no fuel flow? If the fill phase was occuring when the pumps are being actuated I would thing that would cause no fuel to flow. Just looking for any information before* go back. I plan on checking timing with an in cylinder transducer . Any information is appreciatedThe transfer pumps on them can leak fuel into the oil and they do occasionally fail.
As far as that other thread that machine in that description was a mechanically injected engine and I can't begin to tell you all the issues we have had with those engines, particularly the injection system (we have one in the shop right now with broken springs). However with electronic engine like you have we have had a boat load of injector failures but not too many injection pump failures, but we did have one or two with broken springs/seized pumps. With the valve cover off and a good flashlight and mirror you will be able to see all those springs and it will be obvious if one is broken.
Unfortunately what we have seen quite a bit with both mechanical and electronic 4024/5030's is a slipped cam gear which is throwing the timing off. That's why I asked about ether. The number one reason that happens. #2 being a seized injection pump.
It is possible. If the cam gear slipped enough, the pump plunger is pumping fuel at a different time as to when the electronics command fuel. Any pushrods bent?have you seen a slipped cam gear result in no fuel flow?