John Deere 318D - crank but no start

[whereisd]

Hello - thanks for help, noob skid steer owner. Machine has been sitting since December 2018 so just about 2 years.
New 950ca battery, removed starter and all connections, cleaned and dialectic grease, reinstalled and tractor cranks and sounds like it wants to run. Small white puffs coming out of exhaust. All filters were new right before it was left sitting, has hours 2900 and 2900 marked on the filters with date. Interestingly hydraulic fluid was in the fuel filter, I drained it and replaced with diesel as well as bled the filter head and primed it.
Inside EMU display doesn’t count off the seconds to start. It either says check codes, 920.05 is the first one alarm low (buzzer was removed) and the other one is for the horn button as it’s missing on the joystick. Not sure if these tractors run with codes but a couple of times it didn’t read any. I’ve also removed all the fuses, cleaned and reinstalled as well as the relays with dielectric grease.
I should mention that the tank appears to have a crack near the bottom as it only holds a few gallons before leaking so I am using an aux plastic fuel tank with the suction and return lines going into it. Trying to start so I can raise the boom arms and get the tank out, any ideas on doing that easily with engine off I’m all ears, it’s parked under a hoist.
The EMU the readout was between 15-20psi fuel pressure measured although I didn’t watch it while cranking. Otherwise the Display just shows hours with an hour glass, I don’t get any countdown to start. It’s about 80degrees here btw.
Air filter is clean, perhaps I need to inspect the intake loop and see if some wasps/Dobers got in there
Appreciate any help on what to try next!

 

[whereisd]

Also, I’m curious if a crankshaft sensor failure on one of these machines will block the injection pumps from activating?

 

[mg2361]

Welcome to HEF whereisd!

Interestingly hydraulic fluid was in the fuel filter

That concerns me. Make real sure you have good fuel "all" the way through the fuel system.

You have no engine codes, active or stored? If you hold the menu button for 5 seconds you can get into the service mode. Double check the active/stored codes. Clear them. Then crank to see what comes back, if any. Then go to diagnostics and then to fuel pressure. You should be able to crank the engine and watch fuel pressure at the same time. If not then put a mechanical gauge in there to see what you have.

The EMU the readout was between 15-20psi fuel pressure measured although I didn’t watch it while cranking

You should have 0 psi if just sitting there or was that just after cranking?

I’m curious if a crankshaft sensor failure on one of these machines will block the injection pumps from activating?

It will make cranking time much longer but should still start, but those sensors (crank and cam) will throw a code if they are an issue. Can you read rpm's in the dash while cranking?

 

[whereisd]

Mg2361 thanks for the reply I have no rpm readout while cranking, that’s why I thought crankshaft sensor. I pulled it out, cleaned and reinstalled, connections looked good. Didn’t know what the resistance test was for this part.
Fuel pressure was observed right after cranking and was dropping it does zero out, how much pressure is ideal?
I’m running completely on a new aux tank and the return fuel line is running into it, I’ll check my fuel again and replace, some of the atf has got to be in there and it’s only 5 gallons.
I can see how to view the previous codes but haven’t been able to get anything to clear. I’ll write them all down and post.
thanks again!

 

[mg2361]

Didn’t know what the resistance test was for this part.

2500-3500 ohms.

I can see how to view the previous codes but haven’t been able to get anything to clear

If you follow the procedure I gave above on accessing the service menu you will see a choice for clearing codes. But write down all the codes found first and post.

Fuel pressure was observed right after cranking and was dropping it does zero out, how much pressure is ideal?

7 cranking, over 25 running. Should hold about 4 psi for at least 15 minutes.

 

[whereisd]

Mg2361- appreciate the help. Yes so I took down all the codes, cleared them out. None of them came back. I watched the fuel system pressure build up from 0 to 23lbs then back down when I stopped cranking. I had a friend watch the return fuel line and no fuel is coming out. I removed the return fuel line from the T at engine and the one that wraps around that also comes out of the engine, neither of these had a drop of fuel come out. I pulled the fuel line that goes into the engine from the fuel filter and fuel is there. I’m looking to see where the clog is, are there check valves? Otherwise my friend who’s a heavy diesel mechanic said the engine sounds like it wants to start but isn’t getting fuel. Mind you I didn’t leave this machine in this condition just bought it this way. Perhaps someone’s idea of cleaning out the system was to put Hydraulic fluid in the filter, I’ve read some guys thought that was a good idea.
I suspect that the crack in the fuel tank coupled with the wood chips and dirt surrounding the tank have definitely contaminated it, that could be playing a part in what’s going on. I am using a clean 5 gallon tank to fuel from. Thanks again for any input.

 

[whereisd]

Looks like the check valve on the T doesn’t open until 29lbs psi, the injector bleed off isn’t putting out any fuel if the injectors aren’t working, that points to the governer that runs the pumps?

 

[mg2361]

Did you buy this machine in a non-running condition or did it run when parked?

Any of the codes engine codes?

Check cranking speed. If below 250 rpm it won't start (and the cam sensor sends erroneous signals below that rpm).

You may want to remove the check valve just to make sure you have good fuel through the rail. Then put the check valve back in (I would recommend replacing it anyway because they have been problematic).

After cranking (or priming) and sitting for 15 minutes did the fuel pressure maintain 4 psi? Crank the engine to get it to 20+ psi (or use hand primer). Then as soon as you are done cranking (priming) pinch off the supply and return lines. See if the system holds pressure. If not the injection pump O-rings are leaking. If so then release the supply pinch to see if it holds pressure. If not the check valve in the filter head is most likely the culprit. If so then release the return line. Obviously that would be a check valve in the return line issue. Post results.

 

[whereisd]

Yes I purchased this machine in non running condition. It was a United Rental’s machine that a wood Mill was leasing, the wood mill ended up having to buy the machine because of the cosmetic condition, leaving the engine side panels and letting it fill up with wood chips around the fuel tank and engine. Here’s a copy of all the codes. Looks like the engine temperature codes at 2899 were the last ones before they serviced the machine. The radiator appears to have been replaced.

 

[whereisd]

I will check the fuel system as instructed and see if it holds the 4 psi pressure once I’m done with the tests.

 

[whereisd]

I checked all the lines and some of the hose clamps were loose. I checked the system after cranking and it settled to 14lbs for an hour before I left. I missed the step on clamping off the lines, Tomorrow I will do that and report. I put a new filter on and for some reason had trouble getting the system to prime using the filter head pump. I took it all apart and still no luck with it after pumping for 5 minutes. Once I started cranking the engine it builds pressure and I confirmed that pressure is building at the outlet of the filter. Yesterday it built pressure by pumping. Where is a good place to buy the check valve T? Is the filter check valve serviceable or is the whole head replaced? In terms of codes the only one that came back is the 920.05 for the alarm. Thanks again!

 

[whereisd]

I’m thinking the check valve in the filter has already been removed as I didn’t find in either the inlet or outlet elbow

 

[mg2361]

If your machine is holding 14 psi for an hour I wouldn't worry about the fuel return check valve. Most likely there is not an issue with drain back holding that much pressure. So you can skip pinching the lines. That procedure is just for isolating fuel pressure drop. The check valve in the filter is not in the fittings. It is a little rubber check valve under the hand primer.

Check that cranking speed. Has to be over 250 rpm.

 

[whereisd]

Cranking speed is good. Doesn’t register on screen but it’s moving. What I’m getting now is code 100.03 oil pressure high, checked oil level and it was easily 3-4 qts over. Guessing it’s leaking internally, I’m going to test the oil on some paper towels when I get back and see if I can see a halo of diesel fuel around it.
How relevant is this info?:

 

[whereisd]

Correction engine oil pressure high voltage is the definition of the code. I’m wondering if the injectors are fouled.

 

[mg2361]

How relevant is this info?:

It's not. That video is for a mechanically injected engine. Your engine has electronic unit injectors. It has no rack.

code 100.03 oil pressure high

That code is an electrical issue, not a pressure issue. An ".03" code is a value that is "out of range high". Basically the ECU is seeing voltage that is higher than the sensor is capable of providing. An open signal wire or a signal shorted to power can cause that code.

checked oil level and it was easily 3-4 qts over

Does it smell like fuel? Might want to have it sampled.

 

[whereisd]

Ok that makes sense, thanks for The feedback.
Oil doesn’t smell like diesel, I checked for that on the dipstick early on. The viscosity doesn’t appear thin, It drained slow. Perhaps overfilled. I’ll test the oil
In the manual here it points to the low pressure fuel pump as a possible source for fuel in oil. With overheating as one of the last codes before it sat, a cracked head seems plausible,
Once I’ve exhausted the easy stuff I’ll pull the valve cover if it’s even removable without Pulling the engine.
I’m running out of ideas on what to do. Let you know what the oil says.

 

[whereisd]

Here’s a post my buddy sent me, someone that had a similar problem:
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=59614

 

[mg2361]

Your code lists engine temp moderately high. That should not crack a head. I don't see extremely high listed so you should be good there.

Once you are confident that your fuel system is well bled, full of good fuel, good fuel pressure, cranks fast enough and still only smokes white while cranking with no new codes then pull the valve cover (it can be pulled without removing the engine). Then look to see if it has bent push rods. Has anyone used ether on this machine?

 

[whereisd]

I have not used ether or any starting fluid of any sort on the machine. I’ll see if the two codes 920.05 and 110.03 will stay permanently cleared, as of now they seem to keep coming back.